I posted quite a bit about my dark blue stock paint near cherry '84 300D that I found in Eugene in Oct. '19 when my SDL broke down. I had several threads up, made sense to start a new one for this issue.

The main thread where I got into it was this one, if anyone wants a memory jog:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/401626-breakdown-i-5-oregon-near-eugene.html

I had multiple issues, did a lot of fixes - removed and cleaned fuel tank, tested compression and injectors, reamed the glowplug chambers while installing new plugs, the big one was finding that the line from the alda up to the splitter on the firewall was deatched, also the companion line coming from the intake manifold was plugged with an inch of tarry gunk. Runs much, much better now, several drivability issues still, is occasionally really sluggish off the mark, but soon enough the turbo kicks in and is zippy. Then after warmed up, the slowness at start improves.

It's been way on the back burner for months because I had no title, the trip permits long expired. I FINALLY got the title, am now CA legal, insurance, the whole works.

My top priority for repair now is the vacuum system. I've isolated the issue to some degree. I posted before about rebuilding the vacuum pump. Way premature, sorry to waste people's time - vacuum pump gauge indicates it's in great shape. I unhooked the metal line leading away, tested the pump at the source: steady 22.5 in. Hg., well, the needle vibrated over a range consistently, the center point was 22.5. Then I unhooked the same line from the brake booster diaphram. 18 in. Hg on the end of that one. Best I can tell, everything else in the car comes off that line, that test only excludes the brake diaphram. When the engine was shut off, I could see a slow bleed-down of the needle, expected of course.

I then put the vacuum pump on the brake diaphram and worked the handle furiously. Took me awhile but I got it up to 10 in. Watched it for a while, didn't move. Then I maneuvered the display so I could see it while in the driver seat. I pressed the brake pedal, the pressure slowly bled off. I guess that's to be expected, not sure how that works internally.

Another test, while I had it disconnected from the brake diaphram, the vacuum gauge feed plugging the end of that line, with the engine running I tried the door locks, just in case there was some huge leak in the diaphram and that's why door locking did not work. Nope. Door locks are horrible. Engine shutoff not good but at least it will do it. Sometimes takes a few seconds, sometimes takes nearly 30 seconds. But door locks rarely, rarely work at all. Closing them manually is a huge pain, some will pop back up, just annoying. Trivia note, while repairing the ignition tumblers and steering wheel lock, I drove it some, starting with a screw driver, I hooked the same vacuum pump up to the shut off line - sweet Jesus, one or two quick squeezes and that motor shuts off right now.

The trunk lock, mechanically, seems ideal, the dead bolt part works, unlike my SDL which is half busted - the SDL trunk lock will not stay locked when the doors are unlocked. The door lock gets jimmied with a coat hanger and my trunk is unlocked. Got to fix that. I can't even figure out how to take it out. But I digress.

I'm thinking the smoke test sounds like a good option, not sure how well that works. My hope would be that after a while I would see smoke coming from one of the doors. Leak found. The reservoir in the trunk looks fine. who knows. But I'm not keen on taking every door apart and coming up empty. That would be painful.

This is the lowest price smoker I've found ($70), the others are around $100 - $120.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/EVAP-Smoke-Machine-Diagnostic-Emissions-Vacuum-Leak-tester-BRAND-NEW-/281805683189?_trksid=p2385738.m4383.l4275.c10

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1986 300SDL, 362K
1984 300D, 138K

That's probably about the lowest price you are going to find. I built my own but I've probably got that amount in the parts I used. Mine's a little fancier, adjustable regulator, quick connect on the hose, disconnects on the leads, pressure gauge, etc., but does the same job.

The door valve is the usual culprit followed closely by the hard plastic line inside the body where the line feeds inside the cabin.

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“Whatever story you're telling, it will be more interesting if, at the end you add, "and then everything burst into flames.”
― Brian P. Cleary, You Oughta Know By Now

I thought about trying to make my own, wasn't sure how smoke is generated, I mean durable smoke, not sure if solids settle out of some smoke after a while. It's $70 I'd rather not spend but I need to fix this. The car is looking pretty good, I might have a real item before long.

*TRIVIA*

skoke machine?? Jeez this software is weird, can edit the title to appear corrected on the post but on the opening page it stays the same. Oh well ....

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1986 300SDL, 362K
1984 300D, 138K

Pretty simple. A wick is wrapped with a resistor wire and the end of it is immersed in a mineral oil bath. I used a Tiki-torch wick available at almost any store. The amount of smoke varies on the resistance of the wire and supplied air pressure.

If you do decide to make your own I'll send you the wire. You only need two foot. I bought fifty foot of the wire because it cost the same as two foot.

__________________
“Whatever story you're telling, it will be more interesting if, at the end you add, "and then everything burst into flames.”
― Brian P. Cleary, You Oughta Know By Now

My smoke machine is one of best tools in the shop.

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Jim

Cheapest: a $1 cigar from the gas station taped in the end of a Harbor Freight hand-operated transfer pump.

https://www.harborfreight.com/multi-use-transfer-pump-63144.html

Works fantastically.

Smoke generator for finding vac leaks is a super cool toy, but with these w123's probably not as useful as ya think. Remember, a lot of the lines, connectors, and pods are buried under the floor or behind various panels. Sometimes easier to use a cheap Mityvac, either it holds or not....

^ I have been worried once or twice that this could be like the dreaded electric gremlin. You know it's there, just try finding it.

As far as using the Mityvac, that's what I have, I know from using it that the system doesn't hold. Tracking down the where is the hard part.

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1986 300SDL, 362K
1984 300D, 138K

I wouldn't mind having one, but I already have a lot of $100 tools I used once, now gathering dust. Maybe I will try the harbor freight pump and some self made smoke.

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1986 300SDL, 362K
1984 300D, 138K

Totally agree...…

Very versatile tool, useful for engine/induction leaks, EVAP systems, as well as the various other pneumatic systems (central locking, ACC, etc)

You are in serious danger of losing "Gear Head" status points with such a blasphemous statement! Dip your fingers three times into used oil to atone yourself!

__________________
“Whatever story you're telling, it will be more interesting if, at the end you add, "and then everything burst into flames.”
― Brian P. Cleary, You Oughta Know By Now

I don't know what got into me ...

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1986 300SDL, 362K
1984 300D, 138K