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  #1  
Old 08-08-2020, 03:48 AM
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Removing OM603 injector pump

I saw my first ever 350SD at a Pick N Pull today. It had been creamed hard on the left rear corner. It's a good sign at a boneyard as it usually means the engine was running up until the end. Can't see any signs of shock damaging items in the engine area but who knows. Looked like a crumble zone thing - the frame might not have been directly hit.

I called my Vietnamese mechanic buddy - he has two 350SDs - he asked if the injector was still there, I told him it is, he implored me to get it for him. He can't leave the shop in the near future. Will pay. Not sure what I should ask him.

I found this tutorial in a search, it's from our hallowed site some years back. A bit trickier than I might have imagined. Any opinions?

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/229101-603-injection-pump-removal-pictures.html

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  #2  
Old 08-08-2020, 09:29 AM
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Since it's on a wrecked car and you don't really care about anything else on the engine, it's not a big deal.

Pull off all the fuel lines, pop the throttle linkages off, remove the vacuum pump, Remove the bracket holding the cruise control servo on, remove the center bolt through the timing gear, then remove the 3 bolts holding to the IP to the timing cover. Wiggle it back and forth until you can pull it out.

The pump can be easily timed on the bench and the locking tool installed at that time, and it's a wrecking yard engine, so who really cares about the rest of it. Few people are out picking up "rod bender" engines.

You might want to consider pulling the head, all 3.4's got the #17 or later head casting.
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  #3  
Old 08-08-2020, 12:03 PM
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Thanks! The tutorial I posted also mentioned taking off the fan. The radiator is gone, also the large air intake thingy that goes over the engine. The fuel lines are gone also. The seats are in pretty good shape as well, not sure how long any of that will be there.

I'll look into the head, that could be useful all right.
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Old 08-08-2020, 12:10 PM
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Please take the rod that goes from IP to cruise control actuator and send it to me. I'll pay!
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  #5  
Old 08-08-2020, 03:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by filp View Post
Please take the rod that goes from IP to cruise control actuator and send it to me. I'll pay!
Can you send me a photo of it? I’m on the road can’t do any handy web surfing.

I mean, I could probably figure it out, but just in case.
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  #6  
Old 08-08-2020, 03:33 PM
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Pulling the head is quite a job, I have successfully pulled 3 of them and had to give up on two. The ones i did manage to pull took 4+ hours to do. If you do it, you need a socket for the head bolts, a way to pull the timing chain guide pins, and a chain to lift it off with the engine hoist.
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Old 08-08-2020, 06:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cmac2012 View Post
Can you send me a photo of it? I’m on the road can’t do any handy web surfing.

I mean, I could probably figure it out, but just in case.
I have found one locally, but thanks. I'll get back to you in case it doesn't fit.
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Old 08-08-2020, 06:26 PM
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Just looking at those heads sitting on a bench gives me the impression it would be a pretty big job. At the Pick and Pulls down here they have a large engine hoist you can roll in to position. I used one once years ago, I was a younger and stronger man in those days and it was quite a work out then. Each wheel steers as I recall.

Who knows, maybe I can pay some guy 10 or 20 bucks to help me push it.

How did you pull the guide pins?
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Old 08-08-2020, 07:18 PM
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Post OM603 Cylinder Head

yes, this is a big job but worth the effort if it's a #18 or higher one .

I got lucky and found one (also in a read end smasher) that was 1/2 way off before the previous person gave up, my brother and I only spent an hour getting it off .

The I.P. removal sounds fiddly too but also worth the effort .

I LOVE self service junk yards ! .
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  #10  
Old 08-08-2020, 08:07 PM
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Last two digits on the upper row of numbers on the head are 17. Is that the identifying spot?
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  #11  
Old 08-08-2020, 08:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diseasel300 View Post
Since it's on a wrecked car and you don't really care about anything else on the engine, it's not a big deal.

Pull off all the fuel lines, pop the throttle linkages off, remove the vacuum pump, Remove the bracket holding the cruise control servo on, remove the center bolt through the timing gear, then remove the 3 bolts holding to the IP to the timing cover. Wiggle it back and forth until you can pull it out.

The pump can be easily timed on the bench and the locking tool installed at that time, and it's a wrecking yard engine, so who really cares about the rest of it. Few people are out picking up "rod bender" engines.

You might want to consider pulling the head, all 3.4's got the #17 or later head casting.
I’ve done everything except the: “center bolt through the timing gear.” That’s not the one in the center of the cavity left where the vacuum pump is pulled off is it? It’s turning weird. I’ve only got about a half hour to go. If I get here at opening in the morning, it will probably still be here. I’m thinking of getting the seats also.
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  #12  
Old 08-08-2020, 08:31 PM
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It should be in the center of the gear with the rollercoaster cam that drives the vacuum pump. I don't remember if it's a left-hand thread or not.....It's been a while since I pulled an IP.
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Current stable:
1995 E320 149K (Nancy)
1983 500SL 120K (SLoL)

Black Sheep:
1985 524TD 167K (TotalDumpster™)

Gone but not forgotten:
1986 300SDL (RIP)
1991 350SD
1991 560SEL
1990 560SEL
1986 500SEL Euro (Rusted to nothing at 47K!)
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  #13  
Old 08-08-2020, 08:33 PM
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That bolt is reverse thread righty loosens it.
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  #14  
Old 08-08-2020, 08:52 PM
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If you grab the injectors and hard lines both should still be in demand.
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  #15  
Old 08-09-2020, 12:16 AM
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The lines are gone, I can get the injectors. Somebody got that shock absorber for the belt tensioner. I've have been preceeded - they also got the radiator, the headlights, maybe the cruise control servo, not sure I have identified that correctly. It has the cruise control computer/ECU still under the dash, pretty sure it's the one for my 300SDL, has to be.

How about these parts? The vacuum pump has visible ball bearings - I gather that's the less desirable of two types that have been used on this engine. The other part I took from the IP of course.



Anyone know off the top of their head what the socket size is for injectors?

I was mistaken on what I thought was a 17. That was an N and a Z in odd light. I can actually see a "14" on the second line:


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