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#1
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87 wagon and 99 wagon Lift Gates don't lock
We have 2 wagons, a W124 and and a W210. And both rear lift gates don't lock. I assume it's the lift gate vacuum pods. (A few years ago I r/r the 87 TD's Rear Passenger Door Vacuum Pod. And the other side needs one now.) Which brings me back to the Lift Gates. Does anyone know of a wiki for how you get to it? Is it the same for both 124 and 210? Thanks.
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#2
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Cant comment on the 99, but on the 87 wagon, your lock assembly is right behind the hatch interior trim panel. To access the assembly, raise the lift gate and along the bottom edge is a plastic trim plate with 10 or so plastic screws and clips. Remove these and then gently pry out 2 push-in clips along each side of the trim (carpeted section) and that will allow the panel enough space to access the lock assembly and its workings. You can then verify any deficiencies or disconnected rods.
If you have to remove the trim panel completely, you will also need to first remove the 3rd brake light trim carefully and then lift the panel top (along the window ledge) up and away from it's retaining clips. This will remove the liftgate interior trim completely giving you full access. If the electrical is intermittent you may have a worn wiring harness as it passes through rubber boots in the hinge area. I would assume the 99 should be fairly similar
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Stable Mates: 1987 300TD 310K mi (Hans) 2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee OM642 165k mi (Benzrokee) |
#3
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Great. I'll order up the replacement lock and give it a go - starting with the TD. While in there, I'd like to lube the press-button lock. It takes a lot of pressure to depress and click to open. Is that straight forward, (lube the area generously) or are there targets for the lube (every 30 years whether it needs it of not). Anything to do to maintain or support the latch and draw in mechanism. It works in both cars. But occasionally the draw-in mechanism does not activate on the 87 TD.
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#4
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Lubricating the system is straight forward for the most part. Once you have the trim panel out of the way you will see the lock assembly, plunger, soft close mechanism and a few connecting rods. May be worth cleaning with brake cleaner well, and then applying a penetrating oil, and manually work the lock plunger, lock latch, and the locking push tab inside the hatch. Working each of these will show you how the assembly works and lube points.
I have found the assembly to br very durable, but requires periodic adjustment and lubrication. The often stick merely from lack of use, so cycling thru the functions regularly keeps it functioning. Try your old assembly before you replace it, you might be surprised what a good cleaning and lube will do
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Stable Mates: 1987 300TD 310K mi (Hans) 2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee OM642 165k mi (Benzrokee) |
#5
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I too have experience on an 87.
A couple things I found: The limit switches are crucial to proper function. The limit switch assembly was still available at the dealer a couple years ago. I had a problem with it reliably actuating and also the rear lights sticking on, discharging the battery. Replacing the switches and giving it a clean and lube really helped its function. The wiring through the hinge boot can and will break. The wires from the gate land at a terminal block above the trim panel in the headliner at the left rear corner. I had to rewire the rear defroster circuit to get it working again. Also be careful with the lock mechanism, it does have a good bit of power behind it, and I can see where it could cause a serious finger injury if you get your fingers in the wrong place while working with it.
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The OM 642/722.9 powered family Still going strong 2014 ML350 Bluetec (wife's DD) 2013 E350 Bluetec (my DD) both my kids cars went to junkyard in 2023 2008 ML320 CDI (Older son’s DD) fatal transmission failure, water soaked/fried rear SAM, numerous other issues, just too far gone to save (165k miles) 2008 E320 Bluetec (Younger son's DD) injector failed open and diluted oil with diesel, spun main bearings (240k miles) 1998 E300DT sold to TimFreeh 1987 300TD sold to vstech |
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