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#1
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2007 E320 Bluetec Turbo Failure/Repair
I just completed repairing my turbo charger on my 2007 E320 Bluetech, which had failed catastrophically on a recent trip. The car began to leak oil badly after the failure and I ended up having to trailer it home. I fear that both the intake and exhaust have become badly oil fouled. Upon starting it after the turbo was repaired, after about a 30 minute idle, it began to smoke and began to runaway with itself - turning off the key did not immediately stop it, but it finally died a few seconds later. Not sure how high it revved. I believe the runaway was caused by oil in the intercooler that vaporized. During inspection I noted the electric fan was not completely plugged in and threw an inoperable trouble code .
Started it up the next day and have checked the turbo, and no apparent damage noted. The question I have is there someway to clean the oil and oil residue out of inlet without dismantling it?
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1976 240D 1987 560SL 2007 E320 Bluetec 1998 C280 (now son’s car) 1982 240D Manual - Sold |
#2
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I can't help with your question but I am curious if you rebuilt or just replaced the turbo. I suspect mine needs rebuilding after 250k miles and I have been looking at some of the rebuilt kits.
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2009 E320 Bluetec - 242k miles and a work in progress! |
#3
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Yes, the turbo failed catastrophically shortly after I had changed the oil cooler seals. I suspect I did something wrong on the reinstall? So I bought a Chinese core and rebuilt it. I have cleaned the intercooler, which had a lot of oil in it, and now I have concern for the exhaust/DPF. It smokes pretty badly now, and I am hoping that driving it will burn it out? I am seeing 22 psi exhaust back pressure at idle now, and am afraid the DPF may not clean up by driving?
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1976 240D 1987 560SL 2007 E320 Bluetec 1998 C280 (now son’s car) 1982 240D Manual - Sold |
#4
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Quote:
Anything that can be removed and put into a hot cleaning tank can be cleaned. In the old days people took their parts to places that did that.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#5
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The 22psi is minus 14psi atmospheric pressure so you actually have 8psi at idle, the ecu would have flagged it up as to high if it was actually 22psi
I would just drive and put about a 100 miles on it and it should clean itself up, if it doesn’t then get a good code reader and force a regen on the dpf. I am presuming the reading is same as if it was boost pressure in that atmospheric is taken off ? Last edited by Murkybenz; 06-20-2024 at 01:59 PM. |
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