I guess I'm going to have to tackle the job of replacing the fuel shutoff valve, fuel hoses, and fuel delivery valve washer/o-ring job myself. I've watched the Diesel Mercedes video and Dieselmeken's video on Youtube and mostly curious about something on the latter:

I'm guessing after I replace all the parts and have the new washers/o-rings in I tighten the fuel lines on top of the delivery valves but do I have all 6 at the cylinder end cracked loose a little and crank the car until diesel starts dribbling or whatever at a particular cylinder, then tighten it down...or do I have them all tightened down except the particular cylinder I'm working on? Dieselmeken's video is a little grainy and low quality and since there's no talking, he isn't really explaining what he's doing...and obviously I've never done anything fuel related on this car except replacing the filters a little while back.

Delivery valve seals are a touchy business, if you've never done them before, they require surgical level cleanliness. Plenty of folks have ruined their IP's attempting to replace these seals themselves. Also requires a special splined socket. The rest of the stuff you mentioned is all simple swap.

No you don't need to have any of the lines cracked loose. The E300TD has a self priming fuel system - that's what the lift pump and tangled plastic tubes are for. Tighten everything down, and crank to start. It may take a few iterations of 20-seconds crank 60-seconds rest to fully prime up, but that's all there is to it. The factory fuel system of the 606 is not like the older models where you have to manually purge the air.

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Current fleet:
1998 E300 turbodiesel
2008 E320 bluetec - leaky oil cooler seals replaced
2012 S350 bluetec
2015 GL350 bluetec

Sold:
1996 Passat TDI
1997 E300 diesel

I've seen the comments on keeping it super clean and believe me...its gonna be cleaaaaaan lol I've got the socket, just need the balls to go outside in this weather and do the job. Good to know about the self priming setup. Thatll definitely take some of the headache out. I appreciate the info.

The special splined socket is fairly cheap Laser Tools makes a good one.

When you change the IP Delivery Valve O-rings do one at a time and tighten down the delivery valve holder by hand and then compare the high to the other delivery valve holders you have not disturbed. It should be extremely close to the same height.

If it is not close to the same height don't torque it. It means the element barrel has somehow moved up and out of the alignment slot (there is a pin in the housing the alignment slot goes into).
Note the attatched picture in post #4
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/360250-220d-injection-pump.html

The above applies for M type fuel injection pumps as the MWs are different.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I typically loosen the lines at the injectors until I get fuel out. Snug it down once you have fuel coming out. On a healthy engine they will typically start after fuel is coming after three of them.

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Jim

One of the best write ups on doing the job!!!





http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/211801-om606-engine-w210-e300d-td-delivery-valve-seals.html

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96 E300d