Oh jeez... What did I break now?!

[Bootsie]

Hey y'all, been a while.

1982 240d here.

Ya know when the climate fan knob gets tough to move?

Well instead of lubricating the line behind the glove box, I just kept muscling fan. Until one day, my knob snapped. It won't move an inch now.

It's not as easy of a swap as I was expecting. I can physically see what I need to change, I just can't get to it!

I found a very in-depth writeup that indirectly addresses this issue: PeachPartsWiki: Replacing the A/C Evaporator

... But I was wondering if there's a shortcut to removing the fan switch? Or do I actually need to do all those steps just to replace the fan speed knob?

Any advice would be hugely appreciated, thank you!!

[Diesel911]

As a big procrastinator I have felt similar pan many times in the past. Of course, that does not minimize your issue.

Happy Holidays!

[280EZRider]

You're not replacing the fan knob, but the fan switch unit, right? So yes, all the aforementioned steps are necessary with the exception removing the steering wheel. I have removed the console and the dash without removing the steering wheel.

[Bootsie]

Oh lawwd.... This sounds like fun...

[vwnate1]

Okay, late to the party as always however, I just went through this on my 1982 240D stripper .

I hope you're flexible and have a good flashlight etc.

Before you touch the now likely dead fan switch you need to remove the passenger side under dash cover, it's dead simple, don't force anything, ask of you need .

Once that's off you can remove the glove box liner, there are multiple gray plastic expander plugs, get two thin flat bladed screwdrivers and *gently* pry up the -smaller- part of each plug, then the expanded part will fairly easily come loose, be aware they often like to come out suddenly like corks from a bottle so be ready to see where they fly .


Once all the plug are out, use the small flat screwdriver to *gently* pry down the glove box lamp, one it's loose lower it and whilst holding the copper connectors carefully wriggle the two wires loose, pay close attention to which wire goes where, maybe take a cell phone picture of it hanging by the wires .

Now you can slightly flex the glove box liner so it slides past the latch striker, I've done this so many times I no longer unload the glove box, I slide it out full of maps and crap and lean it against the back seat so it's out of the way .

Next, remove the carpets from both front footwells and slide both front seats back as far as they go .

? Are you/we having fun yet ? .

remove the ashtray by depressing the flat steel spring until it begins to tip out then lift it away and set aside (if you're a smoker, NOW is the time to wash it, it'll be dry by the time you re install it) .

Looking in the ashtray's hole you'll see dust, dirt, ashes and against the vertical back wall, two #2 Phillips head screws ~ remove these and be ready for the to try and escape, if your hands have difficulty reaching use a magnet .

Now you can pull the lower half of the console's center

[Bootsie]

Thank you for the insight Nate.

So it turns out, the switch wasn't the problem.

I removed everything you mentioned and looked behind the glovebox.

I'm able to more the fan switch cable up and down no problem... but nothing happens.

I got some advice that this is likely the fan door. The door that lets in hot air is not connected to this cable.

I'm worried this means that I need to take the dash out entirely?

Does anyone have a clue what I've done?

[Bootsie]

I've learned that the blower fan is relatively easy and cheap to replace... but I don't think a blower fan would go bad from me muscling the switch. Back when the switch was just difficult to move, the fan sounded perfectly quiet and fine.

Again, the whole reason I'm in this situation is because the switch dial was hard to turn. I turned it with some muscle one day, heard an audible snap/click, and I've never gotten a reaction from the fan since.

[vwnate1]

Okay, I'm sure the cable snapped as it usually does .

It controls one of the two flappers in there, the other flapper is to the extreme right end of the plenums and controls fresh or recirculating air by the red/pink vacuum actuator mounted on the extreme right end of the plenum, this is usually ruptured and has zero bearing on the fan or temperature .

The little arm on the heater box end of the white plastic cable should move back and forth as you turn the fan switch .

If not, that's where your efforts need to go next .

Blower motors are indeed affordable now, I have the Uro brand one in for a couple - three years now and I rarely turn the fan off fully, it's silent and blows a gale on high .

You're getting there, don't panic, work slowly and methodically .

[Bootsie]

Thank you very much!

We're getting rain and cold temps in San Diego for the first time really in a long time. This is my daily driver and I've got a little kiddo. I'm usually confident driving this wonderful car around, but without the ability to heat or defrost this car has become quite a liability.

I'm going to hunt around and try to find these parts you speak of. I'm a little confused about what I need to be doing now. Yes the cable adjusts the arm, so my fan switch is fine, but I don't know if my blower is bad or if I just need to open these flap doors manually now?

I need this car to get around, so taking the dash apart would be a big problem for me. But any other trick or workaround would be fantastic. Is there a way I can manually make the door open full time?

[vwnate1]

The website ate my reply, here it is again :



The vacuum actuator is directly behind the glove box liner, I hope you didn't reassemble it yet .

You'll see it even without a flashlight, you'll need a 3' long piece of vacuum hose or Diesel fuel return hose like is used between the injectors .

I find it handy to keep 10' or so of the Diesel fuel return hose in the trunk and it only ever begins weeping when I'm far from home with my Sweet on board .

If you've not yet replaced any of the various vacuum hoses, you're going to need to either on this repair or the next thing you decide to tackle, I highly recommend using silicone hose, it will co$t less to buy and outlast you and the car both .

[vwnate1]

You didn't answer my questions yet so don't proceed as one step at a time is the basic K.I.S.S. of repairs .

[Bootsie]

I can't believe this Nate. But after spending another couple hours studying your words and comparing to what's inside my dash.... I finally realized it was the fuse. Wow.

My utter embarrassment and shock will last with me forever haha

At least I understand my console and dash a little better now!

Thank you for your patience and explanation.

[vwnate1]

Good to hear you fixed it ~ I was just looking up new cables....

[Bootsie]

You're KISS in bold red was, at first, difficult for my ego. Difficult enough that it made me pay attention! hahaha Thank you my friend!

[vwnate1]

Sorry 'bout that .

When it comes to machines, there shouldn't be any ego ~ they're just machines and machines do what they're designed to do .

Those who grasp this simple concept rarely have troubles no matter how much they use the machine .

Others try to make the machine operate beyond it's design parameters then complain when it's not what they'd envisioned and blame the machine .

These are the guys who always talk about my speeding in past in my jalopies when their Hot Rodded cars aren't reliable .

I hope you know to replace ALL the gray metal fuses ! copper is the only way to go and if you hunt around they're dirt cheap to boot .

VW & Porsche shops and partshaus' tend to have the correct ones, accept no substitutes .