My first paying car repair job. - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

engatwork · #1 06-27-2002, 07:44 PM

Installation of a starter for this 1983 300SD

. Guy had it towed over to the house this evening. Planning on changing the starter early Sat morning. The wife was thrilled

engatwork · #2 06-27-2002, 07:48 PM

heres pic

engatwork · #3 06-27-2002, 08:25 PM

LOL - being sarcastic. I can't stand not having something going on when it comes to turning wrenches

billrok · #4 06-27-2002, 10:01 PM

Have no mercy. Even if he is your best buddy, charge him an arm and a leg. Then give the money to your wife!! Problems solved.

engatwork · #5 06-29-2002, 03:40 PM

Took two hours to change the starter. Car started up and ran good. I was actually very surprised how well the car drove even though it is showing 400,xxx miles and has a little rust. I believe him when he said the engine was rebuilt within the past two years. Car drove better than my '84 300D almost to the point of making me determined to own an early 80's 300SD one day. Once I got the correct ATF fluid level in it the tranny shifted and allowed the car to accelerate better than mine. I belive it would outrun me in a drag race. Mine is in high gear by the time you get to around 30 mph. I am starting to suspect the bowden cable needs replacing.

I originally started helping him about a month and a half ago by replacing the ATF cooler hoses because one of them was busted. When I drove it this morning the leaking ATF had destroyed the alternator belt and it ended up breaking when I was taking it over to him so I went ahead and put some new alt belts on it.

I was totally amazed how well the car drove. If all early 80's 300SD's drive as well as this one then I am going to try to find one over the next year or so.

I figured out to make it worth it I am going to have to charge him at least $50/hour.

The car needs a new window for the rear door and he wants me to go over the brakes for him next. If anyone has a right rear window available let me know.

MikeTangas · #6 06-29-2002, 11:48 PM

Too bad it's a SD and not a SEL, the extra right rear I have won't work.

Is the glass broken? I thought so too on the 560, but when I opened the door I found the sliding jaw plastic piece had broken, which allowed the glass to fall inside the door. Look inside first before hunting/buying any glass.

Ridge · #7 06-30-2002, 01:35 AM

Jim,

I've a complete set of windows from a 300D. Anyone know if they are the same as the SD? Wouldn't be surprised. If so how about $25.00 plus shipping?

Ben

william rogers · #8 07-01-2002, 02:42 AM

adjusted the slack out of bowden cable and backed out the modulator a turn conterclockwise on my SD takes of like a rocket now,takes off in first if I floor it and shifts into second at about 4000 made a hudge difference.........
William Rogers.....

#9 07-02-2002, 06:02 PM

Jim,

I think billrok had a great idea!

BTW: Did I ever tell you that I am an IRS Agent? Just kidding!

Have a great day,

engatwork · #10 07-02-2002, 07:10 PM

The wife never saw the money

. I made $60 on the deal which the wife did say was not enough so I may increase it just a tad next time. I am actually trying to help the fella out some. Anyway, a friend of his now wants me to do a full brake job on his 1990 Volvo 760 turbo. Not sure if I want to go there. Knowing what a job like this takes (new rotors, pads, etc..) I feel I will need to make at least $150 on it. I'm still thinking about it. Oh yea, compared to what the wife and I make in our regular jobs this is a good source for beer money LOL

.

psfred · #11 07-02-2002, 08:57 PM

Jim:

The 86 and 87 300SDL is longer and has the 603 like my 300D -- more power. Otherwise very similar.

The window is probably in the door -- there is a little plastic clip that connects the window regulator arm to the window (runs in a slot in the bottom). Cost about $2 or so, the dealer or MB parts guy will know what it is, they break a lot. The regulator arm springs back toward the inside to clear the window so you won't break the glass operating the regulator. I seem to remember that you have to remove the regulator from the door to replace the clip. I'll check with my brother and see if he remembers exactly how to do this -- I only remember it is necessary to wire the lift arm down to keep from cutting your fingers off.

If you are in top gear at 30 mph the bowden cable is either broken, seriously misadjusted, or disconnected inside the tranny. It should be either just all the way in or just all the way out at idle, depending on exact installation. Makes a big difference. Also, check the vacuum system and make sure the vacuum drops -- do you get a kickdown into first when you take off? You should have better performance than the SD since you have the same engine and a lighter car.

As for the brakes on the Volvo -- this is a dual split system. Two cylinders on each front caliper, two hydraulic systems each operating one rear brake. If you need to bleed it, you have to do both pistons. Check the vehicle tag on the left rear door pillar for brake number -- Volvo uses several suppliers. Rear brakes are ATE dual piston calipers, I think, identical to MB rear brakes.

If you are lucky, the front rotors will just sit on the hub, and if you have Girling brakes, all you have to do is remove one guide pin and rotate the caliper up to remove both pads and rotor. You will have to wait and see. Very hard to tell, but a good parts supplier will help. Girlings are #3 on the body tag, at least for the 740s. I think the other suppliers are similar.

Otherwise not a big deal, typical brake job. If you replace the rotors, the job is pretty fast, specially if they aren't part of the hub. For $50 each I'd just replace them rather than srew around with turning the old ones, unless they are nearly new. Pads come with new slide pin bolts if needed. Nice thing is that you usually don't need to remove the caliper.

Peter

engatwork · #12 07-03-2002, 06:48 AM

thanks Peter,
That is what I needed to know about the Volvo brakes prior to committing to do them. May call the guy later today and see when he wants to bring it over. I plan on removing the tires/wheels and see what all is up with them prior to ordering any parts.
As for the SD's right rear window it is broken out - there are small pieces of glass everywhere. I will eventually get around to trying to find him a window.
I have ordered a new bowden cable and am planning on replacing it this weekend. I have monitored the vacuum and everything seems to work properly with it.

psfred · #13 07-03-2002, 07:58 PM

Jim:

You may want to check with a good parts shop, too -- I discovered that there were three different rotors for the 740, completely aside from the non-hub type, and that they are all different diameters and not interchangeable. Two or three different wheel bearing sets, too, also non-interchangeable. They must have e-bid the parts!

You can use the numbers off the race to get new bearings at a bearing supplier if you need them - they are all standard, no need to buy Volvo parts as they are something like $60 each!

The vacuum to the modulator should be 12" or so (full pump value) at idle, drop to 10-11" as soon as throttle moves off stop (this is the downshift to first signal), then gradually decrease to zero at full throttle. Hans has a line with a restriction he uses with his AC vacuum pump to supply constant vacuum while testing.

Peter

unkl300d · #14 07-04-2002, 01:12 AM

Jim, there is a guy in Texas who was parting an SD.
Look in parts category.
Although it was a while back, he probably is still parting.

I think his last name is Gerdes?

engatwork · #15 11-16-2002, 03:45 PM

1982 300D - valve adj, diesel purge, atf change, brake fluid change for another "MB diesel nut". Made a new friend this week who lives close by. He emailed me when he saw a car I had on ebay. Put him onto this site but I get the impression he stays pretty busy. Anyway, he brought his car over last night and took the 300TD home. I told him to come over this morning anytime after 8 am and we would go over the car real good. The complaint was "no power on hills" and after driving the car I was amazed at the lack of power it would barely make it up hills. After the valve adj and diesel purge it was still bad so I installed new fuel filters and "eureka" it was like driving a different car. He thought the engine had low compression but it was absolutely filthy fuel filters. Anyway we did the brake and atf fluid changes and he was set. The rear brake pads need to be replaced and we pretty much made a list of the items that need to be taken car of.

I pocketed some grocery money

(we go through some food around this house) and I enjoyed going over the car with the owner.