I'm changing my front rotors. Whenever I've done wheel bearing before (which is only 2 or 3 times, on different cars) I've spun the the wheel slowly and hand tightened the lock nut until the wheel stopped spinning then backed the nut off a little bit.

But on this one it never gets the point where the wheel stops. All the way tight on the lock nut gets that slight tension and the hub and seems tight when I put on the wheel and shake.

I was just gonna leave it like that and see what happens, proboly will replace the wheel bearings soon anyways. But I just wanted to check and see if I'm doing something wrong. Wondering if you are supposed to be able to make the hub stop spinning with that lock nut or not?

I imagine it's pretty much that same on all benz's but for references my car is the 81 300td

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The older models had a washer between the nut and the outer bearing. Can't remember if that is older W123s or previous to that.

In post number 5 is a /pdf of the factory method of adjusting the end play.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/383238-question-replacing-front-wheel-bearings-w123.html

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Slowly spin the hub by hand while tightening the pinch bolt. Keep tightening until the hub stops. It'll take some torque to seat it all the way. When the hub stops, don't touch it, but back the pinch bolt off until completely loose. Tighten it finger snug (literally with your fingers) and tighten the screw on the pinch bolt. It's an old-school method, but it works without relying on a dial-indicator.

If you cannot stop the hub from spinning, the wheel bearings are probably worn to the point they need replacement. Remember, it's better to have the bearing slightly on the loose side than slightly too tight.

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Current stable:
1995 E320 149K (Nancy)
1983 500SL 120K (SLoL)

Black Sheep:
1985 524TD 167K (TotalDumpster™)

Gone but not forgotten:
1986 300SDL (RIP)
1991 350SD
1991 560SEL
1990 560SEL
1986 500SEL Euro (Rusted to nothing at 47K!)

If you use a dial gauge then it should be around 1 thousand of an inch of play

yes, the hub will never stop spinning. the bolts gets all the way to the end of the threads and the hub still spins.

maybe the bearing is getting bad. I'll get around to changing them out in the next month or so.

and as to the above post I'm simple just not gonna use a dial indicator. Not saying it's not the right thing to do in just realistically I'm not going to lol

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I don't see the point in using a dial indicator. No other manufacturer uses that method and even if you do, you'll find that the torque/release/finger method will get you so close to the dial indicator preload that you'll never use the dial again. By the time you get it out, set it up, and get it zeroed, you could have had both hubs preloaded, the caps back on, and the wheels mounted.

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Current stable:
1995 E320 149K (Nancy)
1983 500SL 120K (SLoL)

Black Sheep:
1985 524TD 167K (TotalDumpster™)

Gone but not forgotten:
1986 300SDL (RIP)
1991 350SD
1991 560SEL
1990 560SEL
1986 500SEL Euro (Rusted to nothing at 47K!)

I guess I would ask if it makes a difference. If you take the tire+wheel off a car 5000 miles after adjusting the bearings, and you check the end play, what number would you find?


Just curious as to how much it really makes a difference.

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Strelnik
Invest in America: Buy a Congressman!

1950 170SD
1951 Citroen 11BN
1953 Citroen 11BNF limo
1953 220a project
1959 180D
1960 190D
1960 Borgward Isabella TS 2dr
1983 240D daily driver
1983 380SL
1990 350SDL daily driver alt
3 x Citroen DS21M, down from 5
3 x Citroen 2CV, down from 6

Old method works! Many autos have a cotter pin locking method.
Either too tight or way loose.Must not go too tight.
Bearings heat and expand while in use. So what is left, loose,still works.
Mercedes just uses a better way to adjust, the wheel should have a very small movement,
just able to feel .

Replacing your wheel bearings soon is exactly what you will be doing.

I will challenge anyone to get the preload even close without using a dial indicator. It just cannot be done reliably. The "nonstandard" axle nut makes adjustment by feel all but impossible.

Problem is, the correct movement is too small to feel. If you can feel it, it's too much.

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When cryptography is outlawed, bayl bhgynjf jvyy unir cevinpl.

it's just that a real dial indicator that can actually accurately measure a . 001 is like $300+ that doesn't seem worth it to me for a $30 part that takes an hour to change

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$35 with a magnetic base including shipping from ebay.

Its accurate enough.

To use or not use a dial indicator? Your choice.
Worked at several Mercedes dealers,30 mechanic's or more,no one used a dial indicator.
Why? experience.
How long do the bearings last with the cotter pin method ? Not the best way but works.

"Experience" is precisely why the average DIYer needs a dial indicator. You can buy a dial indicator; you cannot buy experience.

That said, I don't think any amount of experience will match a precision measuring device when it comes to measuring in the .0004-.0008" range. Heck, the average DIYer cannot even look at a 13mm nut and pick the correct wrench out of the tool box.

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When cryptography is outlawed, bayl bhgynjf jvyy unir cevinpl.

If you want to check the accuracy of a Dial Indicator set it up properly over a flat surface with the plunger with some pre-load on it and slide a good feeler gauge under it. If your dial indicator setup is ridged enough the indicator should read the thickness of the feller gauge.

Having been a mechanic in the past I had 2 Dial indicators. One had the magnetic base. I had not seen either for over 5 years and I kept the indicators separate but did not remember where they were.

Also I had since 1968 always set front wheel bearing end plays by hand. So, when it came time to adjust the front Wheel Bearings on the new to me Mercedes I did not use a dial indicator (too lazy to look for it).

The result was I got it too tight and overheated the Grease inside of the hub. (I drove about 2 blocks and put my hand on the hub and found it was unusually hot. If you are not going to use an dial indicator that is something that is a good idea to do.)

The result was I had to remover the Hubs clean out all of the roasted grease and start over. I also spent 2 hours searching for my dial indicators.

I used the dial indicator as in the Factory Service Manual and that worked perfectly. Since 2007 I have had the Hubs off at lest 4 times after which I used the dial indicator and when I did that I had zero issues.

Using the Dial Indicator if done right is entirely reliable.

One of the older Members who has not posted for a long tome dmorrison was a service writer in an auto repair shop. He had several of his guys adjust well bearings by hand and then put a dial indicator on to see how they did. What he found is they all got the looser then the factory spec. I can't remember of dmorrison posted that info or it was a thread.


If you ever do your rear wheel bearings the amount of work labor involved and the expense of the bearings means you need to do it right the first time and you will need a dial indicator for that for sure.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

ya I'm on the fence about it still lol. I'm not really trying to argue that it's not the right thing to do, I absolutely agree that it is. I still do not not believe a $35 ebay or harbor freight indicator can read . 001 accurately everytime. I would MUCH rather use your built in 1968 indicator than these cheapo ones

But my main reason for not wanting to use it what si ply just for the situation I am in right now. Not gotta go allcrazy with setting them perfect when I plan to change them in a month anyways. I was more just seeing if I did something completely wrong, when I started the thread.

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