Clutch master cylinder please help
 

Hi
bit of a back story to this one so please bare with.

right, August last year clutch went on motorway. Had master and slave cylinder changed. Was to busy at the time to do it myself which I normally would have but had far to much work on.

drove out of the garage and the bite point was on the floor, thought that doesn’t seem right so went for a ten minute drive to see if things improved, it didn’t so drove back to the garage, the bloke said it will bleed itself right with use.

stupidly I left it at that. Since then I have gone for a couple of spins and always meant to have a look at it it but kids, work etc etc, don’t get a bloody minute to think.

any way had a look today and found a leak, fluid on the pipe from the master to the slave, found the leak to be coming from the elbow that connects the master cylinder to the hose from the fluid reservoir. The elbow is moving in and out no resistance at all not a tight fit in the slightest.

can anyone help with a part number for a replacement elbow and hose and how i go about fitting them properly. Can it be done with the master cylinder still in situ or will it be easier to remove?

cheers

hope someone can help

dan

I'd try to clamp it if possible, or cut off some of the old material to get past a stretched place.

Don't ever drive with the pedal going to the floor!

Dd:

Assumption: since not stated, the vehicle is a W123.

1) The supply hose leak.
The plastic 45deg. angle fitting originally had tapered bulbs on each end to provide a tight fit in the hose and in the grommet in the clutch master cylinder. It is likely that the bulb in the M/C grommet has been broken off by Harry Hammer Hands while attempting to change the fitting to the new M/C.

2) The low clutch engagement point.
At the top of the clutch M/C push rod is an eccentric bolt that serves to adjust the free play clearance of the pedal. That eccentric should be adjusted such that the pedal has about 1/16-1/8" of free movement before the push rod starts to move the piston in the M/C.
In the event that that little free play cannot be achieved, it is likely that a short push rod has been installed in a M/C that requires a long push rod. Yes, unfortunately there are two lengths of push rod and two versions of M/C.

Thanks Frank, guess I need to contact mb with the vin

did the new upper cyl come with the rod that connects to the pedal. if not there is a longer rod that may be needed

Dan, I get the drift you are in England?


I did a Google search for w123 master Cylinder.
Looks like the TRW comes with both length of rods.


https://www.buycarparts.co.uk/trw/2210680


Several years ago on Peach Parts and other MB part
sites, you could buy just the Rod of ea length.



That eccentric bolt is a PITA to adjust.





Charlie

Cheers guys,

I bought the master cylinder all complete. I bought it from a parts shop that I always use rather than the dealer. How can anyone tell that they have the right or wrong m/c though there must be something obvious on the car or vin number that tells you.

How do I adjust the eccentric bolt?

Are the 45 degree elbows still available new?

So the fact that mine pulled right out and was letting by ever so slightly I don’t think it was pushed in properly, could this cause a soft pedal and low bite point?

Yes I am in Blighty England
Cheers