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  #16  
Old 03-22-2021, 11:14 PM
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The new complete heads are probably surplus where Mercedes was dumping some parts in inventory and no longer needed for support. I have a friend from college who gets Nissan surplus. Sometimes he gets complete engines for a few hundred each. Other times new OE wheels, fenders etc that haven't even been copied in the aftermarket world.

I found a new transmission for my 00 Cummins. It had all of the necessary upgrades done by the person selling. Surplus is also the source for "NOS" that periodically hits fleabay.

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85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. Probably up for sale in the fall 2020 still have it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Waiting on shop to do minor but more than I can do rust.
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  #17  
Old 03-25-2021, 10:52 AM
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Good that someone besides Metric is doing it. I recall an OM617.952 newly rebuilt engine on ebay maybe 7 years ago. Rebuilt by an engineer/hobbyist. Sold for ~$3000, I recall. Sourcing parts is the hardest part. New turbo pistons are >$500 each if you can even find them. For reference, one can buy a set of 8 new pistons for a Chevy small-block for $80.

After my 1985 CA 300D engine failed 10 years ago (at 330K miles), I stripped it down. Several pistons had missing chunks. I found new cylinder liners for $11 ea (more expensive today). I replaced the liners, but would need a machine shop to mill the tops down to match the block ("deck"). I have a set of used turbo pistons I bought from Rollguy. Too many other things in the interim, like my daughter wrecked that car, which I've repaired other than painting, then she wrecked our minivan a few days ago. Re cylinder liners, see my post where I easily split them out of the block with a screwdriver and hammer. I heated the block over a propane stove and chilled the new liners in the freezer, but still had to beat them down with a sledgehammer, with thick plate atop to spread the force so they wouldn't crack (thin cast-iron). I didn't have my 12-ton shop press then.
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  #18  
Old 03-25-2021, 12:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillGrissom View Post
Good that someone besides Metric is doing it. I recall an OM617.952 newly rebuilt engine on ebay maybe 7 years ago. Rebuilt by an engineer/hobbyist. Sold for ~$3000, I recall. Sourcing parts is the hardest part. New turbo pistons are >$500 each if you can even find them. For reference, one can buy a set of 8 new pistons for a Chevy small-block for $80.

After my 1985 CA 300D engine failed 10 years ago (at 330K miles), I stripped it down. Several pistons had missing chunks. I found new cylinder liners for $11 ea (more expensive today). I replaced the liners, but would need a machine shop to mill the tops down to match the block ("deck"). I have a set of used turbo pistons I bought from Rollguy. Too many other things in the interim, like my daughter wrecked that car, which I've repaired other than painting, then she wrecked our minivan a few days ago. Re cylinder liners, see my post where I easily split them out of the block with a screwdriver and hammer. I heated the block over a propane stove and chilled the new liners in the freezer, but still had to beat them down with a sledgehammer, with thick plate atop to spread the force so they wouldn't crack (thin cast-iron). I didn't have my 12-ton shop press then.
Yes, everything is more expensive today for rebuilding these engines. I was fortunate to be able to find TWO sets of new standard turbo pistons, so I can rebuild at least two more engines without having to source good used pistons. Pistons are the hardest part to find, if you don't have good ones to re-use. Sleeves are upwards of $30 each, and rings are about the same. With the cost of chemicals and the environmentally responsible disposal thereof, cleaning the head and block (hot tank) is close to $200! Needless to say, rebuilding one of these engines is not cheap. It is also hard to clean all the fasteners, brackets, and aluminum parts. Many of them have years of baked on grease and dirt, and are very time and labor consuming to clean. I have access to a blast cabinet, so once the aluminum parts are cleaned as good as possible in my solvent cleaning sink, they are sandblasted. I really don't want to pay the machine shop to clean the aluminum parts, as it would be close to $150. I would have to get the parts as grease free as possible anyway, as the grease degrades the chemical in the parts washer.....Rich
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  #20  
Old 04-04-2021, 09:52 AM
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I have never bought an engine from Richard but in buying ac condenser adapter from him I have found his work to be top notch and his personal integrity to be the best.

He also checked out my 92 300TD for me. A great confidence builder for me.
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

Last edited by t walgamuth; 04-05-2021 at 01:12 AM.
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  #21  
Old 04-04-2021, 10:00 AM
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I can also attest to the integrity and honesty of Rich. I have traded with Rich for several years and had the opportunity to meet him at least once. A stand up guy.
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  #22  
Old 04-04-2021, 10:55 AM
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Thanks Tom & Bill for your kind words. And thanks be to God for blessing me with talents and abilities in doing this kind of work. I really enjoy doing it, and it is a blessing to be a blessing to others.
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  #23  
Old 04-04-2021, 11:10 AM
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240D engine rebuild

The 240D engine rebuild is coming along nicely. The customer also purchased a Sanden retrofit. It is much easier to install the components with the engine and radiator out of the car. With the engine on a stand, the compressor goes on MUCH easier than laying on my back under the car! Also, this is actually the first N/A installation of a Gen III kit. I had to make a custom rear brace for the compressor mount. 99% of the kits I sell are for the turbo, and it has a different oil pan. Both braces are different for the N/A. The Gen II only had a front brace, so when I produced the Gen III, I didn't make a rear brace in quantity. I now have to modify the existing turbo rear brace to fit.

I should have the car back on the road in a couple days.....Rich
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Rebuilt Diesel engines-img_0527.jpg   Rebuilt Diesel engines-img_0524.jpg  
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  #24  
Old 04-05-2021, 12:20 AM
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Thumbs up Rebuilt Engines

Very nice Rich ! .

Good to see you're carrying the flame .
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I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better
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  #25  
Old 04-05-2021, 02:59 PM
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Looks great.
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  #26  
Old 04-07-2021, 11:20 AM
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Video added

I added a better video to the album, and posted it on youtube: https://youtu.be/A_uxJOnN3A0
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  #27  
Old 04-07-2021, 12:54 PM
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Stellar work...
Since you’ve clearly had these engines down to nuts and bolts,
do you know if the chain tensioner on the 617 is compatible with the 616?
Seems like a better design, it’s also much cheaper.
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  #28  
Old 04-07-2021, 01:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shern View Post
Stellar work...
Since youíve clearly had these engines down to nuts and bolts,
do you know if the chain tensioner on the 617 is compatible with the 616?
Seems like a better design, itís also much cheaper.
I don't think they are, as the 617 turbo has a ratcheting piston, the N/A tensioner is just oil pressured. It is possible that either one will work on either engine, I am not willing to try it.
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  #29  
Old 04-07-2021, 02:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROLLGUY View Post
... It is possible that either one will work on either engine, I am not willing to try it.
Exactly.

Don't mix and match chain tensioners
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  #30  
Old 04-08-2021, 01:39 PM
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Thanks gents. And nor shall I.

Though I've never liked the NA tensioners losing tension due to losing their prime/internal seals, etc. Why allow oil pressure to do a spring's job?

The serviceable turbo tensioner seems so much better/more reliable.

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