See attached pictures.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

More pictures. Note that I originally had 2 hose clamps where I used the Oeitiker clamps.

The Hose pic shows the part number of the Hose and the size. I got the Hose from Belmetric and it is sold in one meter lengths. One meter is more then you need.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Thanks!

I found it a bit cheaper from an air cooled Porsche distributor. Got 2 meters on the way so I'll have plenty of extra to toss in the trunk in case of line failure down the road. I'm also considering putting in a warning light for that extra bit of security. Something super bright that comes on if oil pressure drops below minimum spec. Pretty easy to setup and would probably prevent engine failure in case of oil pressure loss.


Anyways, hose is on the way so I'll get them cut out and changed this weekend.


Thanks

From what I have read the people that had issues with the worm gear hose camped oil cooler hose were those who bought the car and it had them and they drove it like that and had a failure.

I have a low oil pressure alarm thread where I installed one. But, the thread brought up some interesting issues.

Here is the issue.
The Low Pressure alarm has to be below your hot idle oil pressure. My Oil pressure will max out at 97 psi (I know the gauge only goes up to 3 bar but that is my actual highest oil pressure).

So if you are driving around town an lost oil pressure the alarm may help.

But if you are on the Freeway your engine is under a load and at 97 psi your Oil most of your oil is going to be gone by the time the oil pressure gets low enough to cause the alarm and that is going to happen when you need the high oil pressure.

When the sending unit on my low oil pressure alarm stopped working I have not bothered to find a replacement. But, have been driving with the hose replacement for many many years.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

If you bought a set of new factory made hoses or you just replaced the rubber hose the best why to keep either from failing is simply when you have the Hood up look down and inspect them seeping leaks.
All of the People that have had even the factory made hoses fail have said they were seeping oil from under the crimped collar.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Figuring out when the last time was I replaced the Hoses. Turns it was in 05-18-2014.

This is the post I wrote at that time:
I started this thread back in 11-11-2007 about 6-1/2 years ago and Yesterday I replaced the Hose I installed back then as one was seeping Oi and tighening the Clamp did not fix that.

I has planned to use Oetiker Clamps; the the type that you Pinch but there was no room to do that on the Lower Oil Lines without buying a Tool different from the cheap Nail/Tile Nipper that I did use.

Using the Oetiker Claps on the Oil Cooler ends of the Hose means that that ene has to be able to be unscrewed from the Oil Cooler and that had Me facing the original Problem which was I had partially stripped the threads on the Uppper Oil Cooler Nipple and used JB Weld Epoxy to make sure the Nut held onto the 3 threads that were left and that worked.
Also when I removed the Lower Hose the Threads also stripped off of that.

Do to the stripped threads on both ends I cut the Old Nipples off and replaced them with the Repair Nipples. There is a Wiki on that as well as at least one other Thread in the DIY Section.
what I did that was different on that is I knew there was almost zero chance of drilling and tapping the 2 holes straight into the Oil Cooler. So I did not bother with the Crush Washers and applied JB Weld Epoxy to the threads of the Oil Cooler Repair Nipples.

After loosening the Clamps on the Oil Filter end of the Hose I had trouble yanking them off so I just cut the Hoses and removed the Oil Cooler (I had to remove the Oil Cooler any way to repair the Oil Cooler Nipples).

On the W123 removing the Oil Cooler is easy. You remove 2 Bolts and there is some sort of Clamps that attach them to the Radiator and more or less the Cooler is pulled up through the Top.

I used 2 Oetiker Clamps on each of the Oil Cooler Hose Ends and 2 Norma type Clamps per each Hose end on the Oil Filter Housing end of the Hoses.
The Norma Clamps were suggested by Cooljay and those Clamps are not as wide as the NAPA Clamps in the original setup so they were a better fit.

That is from post #130
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/205012-cheap-oil-cooler-hose-replacement-9.html

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I am new to this discussion but it has stimulated me to make a careful inspection of oil cooler hoses. There are some well known posters like 911 whom I respect but I am a uncomfortable dealing with hose clamp installations with high temperature/pressure applications unless you use what MB designed into the cooler hoses. They used steel lines, compression fittings, crimped hydraulic fittings etc. Very good hose clamps can work but for how long? I have lots of heavy equipment and have worked on industrial apps and aircraft and boats where hose failure simply must not happen and you rarely see hose clamp installations there except on low pressure return lines and coolant lines. My inclination is to use what MB engineers designed and stay away from MacGiver solutions.

I could see replacing them every few years.

As for using hose clamps, I wouldn't be concerned. It's common place to use hose clamps when installing aftermarket transmission coolers (cut the metal line and use double clamps). Pressures and temperatures are higher than what the oil cooler will flow.

Just use quality stainless clamps and check the hoses for leaks any time you open the hood.

With that being said... I don't want to risk destroying the cooler threads and if I do pull the lines down the road, I'll convert to AN line.

Hoses clamped to line failure mode is usually they blow off as the hose material weakens or rots.Or just compresses with time. A stainless wire under the clamps.Anchored properly. Virtually eliminates the possibility.

You also do not have the same clamp compression factor. As the center core of better hose is a lot harder then radiator hose. Safety wires are cheap and really reduce any chance of blowoff.

I never could sell this ideal but have had even clamped garden hose blow off fittings at around thirty pound pressure. Not possible with a good safety wire. You can even apply them to existing oil cooler hoses that still seems okay. In general if a oil cooler line blows off it will usually cost you an engine. I do not think this is being too anal either.

The max possible oil pressure is 110 psi. That is when the Oil Pump Relief valve would open and relieve the pressure. On mine the max measured oil pressure was 97 psi. Either pressure is low pressure in the hydraulics world.

One of the persons that posted in my long thread bought a collar crimping tool as he was going to make up a bunch of Air Conditioning Hoses for several Cars. He used the Air Condition Hose to make a set of Oil Cooler Hoses and the stock oil cooler hose steel tubing.

The last hose change was in 5/2014 and they are in perfect shape and the hose used is the same Choline hose as comes on many of the factory made hoses.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

With Hose clamps you have the option of simply tightening the clamps a bit. I have 7 years on the hose that is on right now and no sign of issues. If I decided that I wanted to change the Hose it would be cheap and a fairly fast job to do that.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Well done I think .

It's been a few years since I replaced these hoses on my coupe and sedan .
Myself, I'da cleaned everything hospital clean before opening it up because I've seen what happens when a tiny bit of crud/swarf/whatever gets into the system .

COHLINE 15MM hose, is it oil rated or hydraulic rated ? .

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-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

It's the same hose used on the oem lines. Oil rated.. temp rated... and a high working pressure. Seems like good stuff.

Well the good news is the Oil that goes through the Oil Cooler is unfiltered oil from the Oil Pan. From the Oil Cooler it goes on into the Oil filter Housing where it passes through the Filter.

When I drilled and tapped the Oil Cooler for the repair nipples I did what I knew to do to keep chips out and flushed out the Cooler with Diesel Fuel. Yet when I did an Oil change later I found some chips from the drilling inside of the Oil Filter Housing (on the dirty Oil side of the Filter).

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel