Hi,

I am replacing the lower control arm bushings on my W123 300D. The driver's side is done.

For some reason, I can't seem to get the spring compressor to work on the passenger side. The angle that the spring compressor rod ends up after I feed it through the hole under the hood and down through the coil spring will not allow me to feed the rod through the three holes of the lower plate.

I disconnected the shock and the joint to the upper control arm and have supported the lower control arm.

Should I disconnect the lower control arm and slowly lower it?

Any ideas?

Thanks.

The 123 front spring is very long so I wouldn't do the lowering the arm without a spring compressor trick. You can get away with it on some other chassis though like the 124/201 rear spring but not on a 123 front spring

Thanks. Any idea why the spring compressor rod wouldn't connect to the bottom plate of the compressor? Everything was fine for the other side of the car. I guess it is an angle thing. But I can't seem to change the angle of the spring by jacking up the lower control arm.

I wouldn't dare try messing with the control arm with the spring in place. Something is just not right,

spring compressor is the only way to safely remove that HD spring coil.
Maybe post what compressor you have.

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1985 300TD 1981 Scirocco 1.6D conv 1986 Golf 1.6D 2003 Golf TDI

When people use the generic china spring compressors they usually mention that they had to enlarge the inside diameter of the hole in the Chassis so that the Spring Compressor can go down and through the hole. You did not mention doing that.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

It's been almost 25 years ago but IIRC, I had to enlarge the hole at the top of the spring cup/perch slightly on the driver's side when doing that job.

Good luck!!!

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"Rudeness is a weak man's imitation of strength" - Eric Hoffer

If you cannot do it totally safe. It is far too dangerous to attempt to work around the problem. Get the spring compressor installed. Or have a garage do it.

Been thinking about doing that job years ago and I don't believe I enlarged that hole but was recalling touching up the area that was chafed by the threaded rod.

Good luck!!!

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"Rudeness is a weak man's imitation of strength" - Eric Hoffer

I have a "thru hole" type spring compressor similar to the proper tool, but slightly too large to fit thru the top hole. I recall the brand is Blue Point (Chinese?). I've thought of enlarging the hole in the spring perch to fit the tool, but hasn't come up. I did need to remove the front springs recently when stripping a 1983 300D, but just brute-forced it. The springs are so long uncompressed that even after loosening the upper ball joint stud and the LCA pivot bolt, the LCA won't drop down enough to release all spring tension. I had a small screw jack under the LCA, but it slipped while fooling with an external spring compressor and the upper arm and the spring flew out with authority. I had a chain wrapped around it, securing it to the spindle, so only a scare. Anyway, work safe and always use a backup chain to control the spring, even with the proper spring compressor. I am more spoiled from working on my old Mopar cars which have a front torsion bar which can be safely unloaded with a bolt (also allows adjusting ride height).

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1984 & 1985 CA 300D's
1964 & 65 Mopar's - Valiant, Dart, Newport
1996 & 2002 Chrysler minivans

See post #17 for pics of homemade spring compressors.

I only bought a made in china spring compressor out of curiosity and I found one that was $18 for the set. previous to that I used either of the homemade spring compressors.

The one I made with the 1 inch threaded rod and the hooks also worked well when I compressed the front springs on my Chevy Van. And my intent when I made it was that it could be used on a Mercedes and for other vehicles.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/295717-123-ch-coil-spring-compressor-2.html

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

If you buy a chinese spring compressor take it apart and inspect it and to lube it.

In post number 1 on the 2nd pic I found that the thrust washer was assembled wrong.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/406914-inside-cheap-coil-spring-compressor.html

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Thank you all.

I finally figured it out. The coil spring was on an angle and I had to experiment with jacking positions to get some of the bend out. I also had to pull and re-insert the plates at different locations on the spring, several times (not fun getting the plates of the spring compressor in and out) so the rod would be at less of an angle.

I just got it back from a camber/caster and toe alignment at the local Mercedes dealer. The tech. said he was able to get it dead on and it certainly drives like it.

It is a low mileage 1983 300D with about 83K miles on it. The lower control arm bushings were worn, and I believe original, so I decided to replace the idler arm bushings, lower ball joints, tie rods and center link while I had everything apart.

Everything else was in good shape.

Beautiful ride now!

dswv - may I ask what you had to pay for an alignment at the dealer? I'm currently trying to align my 300SD in my garage using a SmartCamber and a toe gauge that uses the conduit and pokers. Debating just taking it to someone to do on a real rack.

BillGrissom - Blue Point is SnapOn's "economy" brand. IIRC, they were made to SnapOn quality level from a strength and operation point of view but lacked SnapOn's finish quality. If it's old, you're golden, if it's new, all bets are off as I would imagine SnapOn would have had to get them from somewhere in the Far East to stay competitive.