Greetings! I recently picked up an 87 300td, and hadn't noticed the camber on the rear wheel until a few days later. The car drives and tracks well, but there seems to be an obvious issue, as the passenger rear wheel is at about a 6* camber. I don't plan on driving the car until I figure out the cause.



How would y'all go about diagnosing the issue? I'm happy to crawl under and take detailed photos if needed.

Cheers!

By taking off the wheel

have a good look at the knuckle bushing. It's a weak point of this suspension but you could also have more stuff going on

Not a bad idear!









The last picture looked like potential frame damage, but I am not familiar with the unibody design

The second-to-last photo seemed to have the worst condition ball joint...

Suspension arms attach to a sub-frame so even if you had unibody damage both rear wheels should stay "parallel" to each other.

I would check the lower arm attachment point to subframe and maybe even compare the length of the right lower arm to the left one because this camber seems a little excessive for a worn bushing but I could be wrong.

It's hard to inspect that bushing with the lower arm in place but if it's original then it's almost guaranteed that it's worn out.

Thanks for the response! I'll check the lower arm attachment points as well as the lengths tomorrow.

I took the car the the alignment shop right after purchasing, and was told that the suspension was 'torn' from the frame. They basically just handed me the keys back at no charge. Since then, I've been underneath, scratching my head trying to find catastrophic damage...The only visible damage under the car was in front of the rubber jacking points, where it looks like someone improperly jacked the car and caused a dent on both sides.

I've yet to find what looks like unibody or subframe damage yet anywhere in the rear, but I also don't know much, hah.

If it's worn out bushings, or poorly adjusted suspension, I'd be delighted.

Here's a breakdown of the linkage lengths, with the bad (passenger) side listed first.

Camber Link: 295mm/297mm
Pulling Link: 255mm/250mm
Tie Link: 250mm/249mm
Push Link: 312mm/311mm

Edit: found the damage, and it doesn't look good. I've found the tear along what seems to be the unibody




Now I've got a nice pit in my stomach...

The early 124 wagons suffered from a weak rear body structure and cracks around the subframe mounts on the body. You may need to get a body shop to remove the rear subframe and have them see if they can weld up the cracks and damage. Mercedes actually sells (or sold, time ago) a strengthened body part for the rear subframe area, so the ultimate repair is getting that part of the body cut-out and replaced.

However, the camber issue should be isolated to the subframe and attached parts, not related to the body, unless the body is collapsing.

__________________
Respectfully,
/s/
M. Dillon
'87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted
'95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles
'73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification"
Charleston SC

Typically the camber is related to the bottom-most link (aka the spring link, as the suspension spring acts on this link) and the knuckle joint which is pressed into the wheel carrier. That knuckle joint wears out and causes what you describe. If the spring link rusts out, it can start to collapse and cause this condition too.

__________________
Respectfully,
/s/
M. Dillon
'87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted
'95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles
'73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification"
Charleston SC

Typically when you get camber issues, it's time to overhaul the rear suspension, and replace all the links and bushing and rubber pads, and take a look at the springs to see if they need replacing.

__________________
Respectfully,
/s/
M. Dillon
'87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted
'95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles
'73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification"
Charleston SC

There are two pictures that I noticed what looks like tearing. The alignment shop probably does not have someone with the skill to weld those areas. Chances are no actual shop will want to mend it. If that is the case you may be able to find someone who can do it in their driveway.

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

One picture indicated some work had been done already. Various measurements are going to be required unless it is totally obvious what has happened.

I suspect one side of the sub frame may have been pushed up into the body structure some. Although I have not seen the car.

I just feel it is very important to find the exact reason before doing any correction. Or you may lock in a problem. I am not suggesting that is the actual problem but should be kept in mind. That side may have hit a curb or something hard a some point and bent something as well as torn a weak uni body structure.

This sounds good.

__________________
[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

The car has been taken to a few body shops, and nobody was willing to take on the project... One shop said they had too many insurance repairs, which bill more $, and the other just said it wouldn't be worth their time to diagnose, and the repair might not last.

I've got some more free time, and want to further diagnose this issue and try to get it back on the road. Pulled out the interior pieces over the rear diff, but there is more unibody above the damage.
Seems like the next step would be to drop the subframe, to get a better look of the tear. If the subframe was also bent, would it be possible to find a replacement?

My hope is to do as much prep myself, and have a welder show up to fix the damage, and possibly reinforce the tear?

Does anyone have advice on dropping the subframe on a wagon? Do I follow the same steps as a sedan, except disconnecting the SLS at some junction?

I have 5 TD’s and a TE…
You are unfortunately on the opposite end of the continent from me…
I have pulled the subframe several times, it is pretty easy.
I even have threads on here showing the work.

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My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!

Do you think it's possible to acquire a strengthened panel still? My biggest concern is removing the subframe, and having the damage be unrepairable...

I plan to give it a go! Looked thru your threads and couldn't find one, but I'll scan thru again.