Well that was an absolute battle.

I got a torch, and I found screw extractors that you hammer into the pilot hole to then turn with a wrench. I had about a four inch swing with the flat of the hammer. Extremely awkward. It turned… That may have been the most satisfying job yet.

I left the upper bolt shank in the hole. That one… well, when I eventually get around to changing the oil cooler lines, I’ll take another stab at it. For now, the mount has three points of contact on two separate axis. I can live with that.

Thanks again all.

Oh, and for future reference, the two longer bolts are
M8 1.25 100mm, the shorter is m8 1.25 65mm.

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1981 240D 4sp manual. Ivory White.

Excellent result. Screw extractors have never budged a bolt for me, nor has a left-hand drill. I have snapped off a screw extractor, which left hardened metal which couldn't be drilled thru, making it worse. That was in a cast-iron head on my 1965 Chrysler, which I got on the bench years later and was able to fix that hole (for valve cover stud). What works for me is to drill perfectly straight down the bolt, then enlarge the hole until I can either peel the bolt "shell" out or run a tap down to break it up. Safest is to buy a set of cobalt drills which can handle hard metals, even stainless steel, if you keep them sharp, though the center of a bolt usually isn't hard.

My greatest success was after removing the damper on our 2002 Chrysler minivan 3.8L and found the remnants of a broken bolt in the crankshaft hole (thanks to a prior mechanic). I thought strange that the damper didn't have a bolt on it, though old slant six engines shipped that way. Anyway, I need the tapped hole clear to pull the damper back on. Taking no chances, I first fabbed up a collar to keep the drill perfectly centered and straight. Since the hole had ~1/2" deep of clear threads this was possible. I rejoiced after I drilled a small thru hole all the way thru the bolt. It actually might have come out with an extractor (forget, perhaps only time), but I recall it coming out easily (not rusted). Also, I was able to spray WD-40 thru the hole in the bolt to the backside, which helped lubricate it and sweep any rust debris out of the threads.

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1984 & 1985 CA 300D's
1964 & 65 Mopar's - Valiant, Dart, Newport
1996 & 2002 Chrysler minivans

Good job!

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79 300TD “Old Smokey” AKA “The Mistake” (SOLD)
82 240D stick shift 335k miles (SOLD)
82 300SD 300k miles
85 300D Turbodiesel 170k miles

I would not run it long with a bolt missing. I tried that on my 240 because I have a mount hole stripped out. The ac bracket came loose every 10K miles. Right now I have the compressor sitting on a shelf until I can get the time to put a helicoil in the stripped hole. The diesel has a lot of vibration and without that one bolt the others are working much harder.

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1985 300 TD 448K
1984 300 TD 278K

1983 240D euro 240k
1994 f-250 idi turbo 330K
1986 f-350 IDI
1987 F-350 IDI

1985 JD 1050 4wd
1965 IH 3660

1. Few statements are truer than this.
2. This statement reminds me of a very-experienced-with-M-Bs poster here for many years (gone now) who would often say: Inspect your diesel from under and over on a regular basis to find and correct that which has become loose.

Absolutely.

After the dazzling luck I've had with my accessories, I check bolt tightness whenever I have the hood up (all the time). The number of things I've found loose over the years... I even found a couple upper pan bolts in need of torquing. I check it all now.

Re: missing AC bracket bolt, I believe I had only two functioning bolts from the beginning (5 years ago). In any event, when I eventually get around to rebuilding my oil cooler lines, I'll take care of that final hole. It was impossible to drill it out without removing those lines -at least impossible with the tools I have/know to exist.

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1981 240D 4sp manual. Ivory White.