87 300D will not shut off. Dose anyone have a vacuum schematic for this circut? Is there a electrical part of this or just vacuum? What should the proper vacuum be? Thanks.

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T.W.
1987 300D 170,000 Mi.
1990 350SDL 105,000 Mi.
1979 450SL 147,000 Mi.
1976 U 1300 Unimog 4400 H
1963 Piper Cherokee 160 1800 H

You probably need a very inexpensive part called a shut-off valve. It attaches to the back of your injection pump.

Ron
http://germanstar.net

tw, there should be a vacuum line with an extender leading to the shut off valve at the back of the injection pump that german star is talking about. make sure the line is still attached and in good condition. sometimes there is oil in there and you would need to replace the extender hose leading to the vacuum line.

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1984 300D Turbo - 231k....totalled 11/30/07 RIP

The vacuum cutoff is on top of the IP, in front of the ALDA. You will probably need to take the ALDA off to get the cutoff valve out.

Make sure you get the correct one, there is a power steering cutoff solenoid, too, that is plastic and may not work!

There is a brown vacuum line to the ignition switch and a brown with blue stripe vacuum line to the cutoff solenoid. Get your handy Mitivac out and see if you can pull the solenoid down with it, or check to see how far it pulls down when you try to shut off the car.

If it is part way down, and nearly shuts the car off, pull the hose, push the lever down, and seal the nipple with your finger. If the lever moves at all, the solenoid is shot.

The vacuum for all the accesories is separate from the brake booster vacuum on these cars -- there is a line from the vac pump to a four branch T in front of the engine.

If you also have hard shifts, AC blowing up the dash, or other symptoms of low vacuum, check the system for leaks -- the vacuum tansducers for the air recirc on the turbo and the EGR can go bad and leak enough that the other systems don't work.

If you have the Mitivac, you can check the vac supply at the T by unplugging something and attaching the pump hose -- you must have 12" vac or so. If not, check the connectors and the restictor just below the T, it sometimes plugs. If you don't get enough vac, check the main line from the pump, it can be bad. If the pump is good, you have a leak and will have to find it.

To replace the cutoff solenoid, empty the windsheild washer tank and pull it out. Use a couple of adjustable wrenches to loosen the captive nut on the ALDA, unscrew it, and wriggle the ALDA out from under the manifold. It just sits on the IP, nothing is connected. You will have to tip it just right to get it out.

Remove the two torx bolts that hold the cutoff solenoid down and remove it -- it hooks onto the fuel deliver rack with a pin. Make sure you take the seal off the old one and put it on the new one, you don't get a new seal, and if you leave it out, you will get oil everywhere.

Hook the new solenoid on and make sure it pushes the lever up, and that the lever goes down to the stop position under vacuum -- if you don't get it hooked in, the engine can run away and blow up. Not likely, but if it isn't hooked in, you can't stop it. Keep a 14 mm wrench handy when you start up so you can loosen the injection lines if you have to.

Put the screws back in and snug them up (the pump body is aluminum), then re-install the ALDA and windsheild washer tank.

Peter

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1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!

Is that the same process for an 82 300d (617)?

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Paul
2004 E500 4matic; 72,000mi

No, that one is on the rear, no need to remove anything else.

Same caveat about getting the new servo attached, but keep a 17mm wrench handy -- the cap nuts are larger on that car.

Peter

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1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!