This repair only lasted several years.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/bodywork-repair-paint-tools-tips-tricks/290024-rusted-out-lower-hood-hinge-repair%3B-no-welding.html

In that thread is a repair I know now I should have done with a steel washer but requires welding and of course enough base metal present.
See attached pic.

Attached Thumbnails

 

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Nothing left on mine but a jagged rusty hole on the inner fender. Not much to speak of on the rusted pin. I'd hafta make a patch and drill a hole for the pin. Probably next to impossible to find the exact spot without a template of some sort. Hood alignment would suffer and adjustment would be non-existent.
I was imagining (something I'm pretty good at, but doesn't get me too far) that the repair "kit" had a metal "patch piece" and location dimensions or something. It's really not a "repair kit" everyone's referring to, it's just the parts to bolt the hinge back on if everything else is in place. Hey, might be an idea, for someone with the skills and abilities, to make a kit that had the metal patch with the proper hole location and hardware. Might sell "a million of 'em"!
There goes my imagination, again....heh heh.

On mine there is like a 1/4 inch on each of the partly circular section left to attempt some orientation.

I also gave some thought to going to the Junk yard and cutting off that part of the sheet metal or at least taking some measurements.

I shatters my Windshield several months because I had not fixed the issue. I had been propping the hood up with a stick. I stood it up higher then normal with a longer stick so I would have more room to remove the cylinder heads. While I was in the house the wind caught the hood and flexed it backwards off the stick shattering my windshield.

I have not finished the mechanical repairs and will not replace the windshield till I do.
After the breakage I now tie a rope so the hood cannot go that far back again. But hood hinges needs to be fixed with something.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Hey now, THAT is an EXCELLENT idea!! If you could get a clean piece, from each side, that could be the basis for a template. I'm no "metal guy" but I'd bet a skilled craftsman could whip one of those out in no time. Possibly a heavier gauge metal and one that resists corrosion? There would also be a few options for installing it, too. Of course weld it in. But, you could also bolt it in and, maybe with the right adhesive, even bond it in!

I use a nifty product called "Zoom Spout Oiler", it's at your local big box hardware store : https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-d&q=zoom+spout+oiler+home+depot

It has a neat collapsing snorkel that stores inside the bottle and a place to put the little red sealing cap so it doesn't get lost...

I managed to break the driver's side hood hinge a decade ago so my hood didn't remain upright, this is dangerous when you're under the hood near traffic or in a truck stop as the hood is heavy and will come crashing down on you...

I was able to remove a perfect D.S. hinge from a junked car but needed to remove the fender to install it, then it's dead easy, of course I dropped the fender and scratched the hell out of it where I'd just waxed it .

BTW : this oiler is *perfect* for lubricating electric motors and other small things that are inaccessible .

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-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

Does anyone know anything about the repair kit mentioned earlier in this thread? (post#9)
Turns out my left hinge has a bent piece down lower in the trough. I need to investigate it more. I assume it bent because it either wasn't aligned well or wasn't lubricated well. This shows both sides.

I'm gonna assume you're 100% correct in your assessment about lubrication. BOTH sides look as if they haven't been lubricated in quite some time. The bend happened, more than likely, because the pivot point is rusted together. This is where they all break!! Rip right out of the sheet metal. As you see, there's no room to re-work in there....major PITA!!
Get that cleaned up, as best you can, wire brush, etc. and start gettin some good penetrating oil on there ASAP! DO NOT extend the hood to the 90 degree position until this is sorted. Gently work the hood up and down, continually lubricating, and, hopefully, you'll be successful in "saving" it. Looks like you might be OK. Once it's free and moving, keep it oiled, cleaned and lubed up good. I'm jealous. Wish mine had been "saved" before it was ripped out

The way the metal is formed/stamped is actually rather complicated. Not something that someone is going to beat out with a hammer.

There is also a presumption that the bushing is going to be able to be reused and that may not be so.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Definitely a complicated piece. Lots of compound curves, etc. I agree, not gonna beat it out with a hammer and sheer determination. That's why I referred to " a skilled craftsman" as what was needed Talented, old school, body/sheet metal guys can make anything....even a hood hinge mount on the inner fender of a W123. As far as gettin it in there and mounted/oriented correctly, well, that's another story entirely. I believe it could be done, though.(but not by me, THAT'S for sure!)

123boy, you seem to think I could repair this bent piece. Wouldn't it be better to replace the hinge or at least the bent piece of the hinge?

The used hinges sets I have seen on eBay are like $125. Of course you could get them a junk yard.

The man articulation has a large rivet on it. Which means it is not easy to replace only one part of it.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel