In my quest to eliminate every single oil leak, I may be at the last one. There is a leak at the infamous grommet in the oil pan where the oil drains from the turbo back into the oil pan. Lookin at it, I can see that there is a small gap where it appears that maybe the grommet isn't quite seated correctly. But, as you know, this area doesn't allow room to apply pressure to push that down so that it is completely seated. Does anyone know how to completely seat this grommet?

I had to go back and look up my old thread from 2010.
"I slid the Grommet down but had trouble getting enough pressure on the Grommet to squeeze the lip in.
I found I could use a long handled Combination Wrench; lever and pull it down; and that worked.
(In the pic of this it does not look like there was enough room for me to use the Wrench to lever it down but there was.)"

The last picture in post number #3 looks like it would not work because I had to prop the box end of the Wrench up on top of that Nut to take the picture. But, you would be pushing on upwards on the end of the wrench with the wrench against the frame frame away from that nut.
The extra long handled combination wrenches came from Harbor freight and was part of a set I bought. I don't remember the size of the wrench.

If it had not been for the old thread I did not even remember having an issue getting the grommet seated.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/280787-turbo-drain-blow-drain-seal-replacement%3B-mein-kampf.html

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Thanks Diesel911. I'll try that next week. I wonder if it will be more pliable when the motor is hot. Does your sit flush? (without the gap you can see in mine)

Pretty sure my two 300D's have that gap. I don't think the pressure seal occurs on that horizontal surface, but rather on the inner circumference of the drain hole. The main thing is if the rubber is pliant. The first time I changed one (my 1985) was from the outside, and it was a bear getting the old one off since the rubber was stiff. I also had the stupid "H.P. AC tube up side of engine", so that triangle bracket limited access (since then hose runs straight to condenser). Of course, I removed the metal tube first, which is tricky (must orient just so to clear). Put a new O-ring on the "upside-down funnel" connection of the 2 tubes. I didn't have a Viton O-ring that large so used green HBNR (Harbor Freight kit).

The second time I did it was on my 1984 300D when I had the lower oil pan off. Good I did since I found a loose bolt and broken plastic rail from the oil pump sitting in the bottom of the pan (search for my post on fixing that, can do with upper oil pan on). From below, it was easy to beat the old rubber out with a socket and hammer, and work the new one in and insure it was seated. So, try that. If you find some small ball-bearings in your oil pan, I can tell you where those originated.

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1984 & 1985 CA 300D's
1964 & 65 Mopar's - Valiant, Dart, Newport
1996 & 2002 Chrysler minivans

I looked at my other OM617 and it has exactly the same gap. So, that must be normal. Also, the rubber on both of them is rather pliable.