Hey guys,
I’m starting the reviving of an old engine. It supposedly was running when parked but that was like 12 years ago or so. I pulled the valve cover and soaked the valves with oil. Went to crank by hand and it wouldn’t budge with a breaker bar. Then I pulled the glow plugs and squirted down the holes with penetrating oil. If I get enough down in there it should make it’s way down to the pistons right? Any other advice for me to free this up? There is no indication that anything is rusty inside. Oil pan was full, coolant was clean and clear. Plugs were near spotless. Valve train was clean and wet with oil when I opened it up. Let me know what you think.
Thanks! Darren

When an engine stops some of the intake valves are open which allows air and moist air to get in and causes rust. That can also happen on the close cylinders also.

If the Engine was still connected to the coolant system filled with coolant I have seen engines that sat a long time and 12 years is a long time (more so in freezing weather) where the coolant eaten through and caused a leak under the head gasket and into the cylinders.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Ooof! I hope that’s not the case. I would hate to start tearing it apart if I don’t have to because like I said, there’s no real indication any moisture got in there. Wonder if I could get a bore scope in there through the injector sockets?

Trying to get a look inside with a borescope is a good idea, I just don't know if you can on that engine.

Yes penetrant through the glow plug holes should get in to the cylinders, use plenty, BUT be certain to turn the engine over with the glow plugs out once it frees and before starting.

Patience is the key here, load it up with penetrant and walk away for a few days then put a bar on the crankshaft and tap it under light pressure. Add more penetrant and walk away until it frees.

Good luck!!!

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"Rudeness is a weak man's imitation of strength" - Eric Hoffer

The Bore Scope is a good idea but he has to pull prechambers out to do that.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

When I was going to trade school there was a local salvage business (he also bought surplus military diesel engines) that would send the school free engines to work on and see if we could get them running or take them a apart and use the good pieces from multiple engines torn down. The students labor was free.

We had stands to put the Detroit Diesels and Cummins Engines on. If there was a suck piston/s the method was to remove the Oil Pan (cylinders lubed of course) and get a hydraulic jack under the bottom of a con rod and see if you could get it moving. If that did not work you removed the Cylinder Head and got a suitably sized piece of wood and a sledge hammer and tried to beat a suitable piston down wards.

If the Piston was severly stuck you could with the Cylinder Head of do the hydraulic jack thing again and the liner and piston would come out as a unit and you could get them all out of the block.

Note all that I can remember were inline engines.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Be careful with the block of wood and big hammer. Pistons are not that thick and you could easily put a hole in one.

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

I used a 4X4 piece of oak to knock a piston free in a 1984 190D. Car is still running around. Make sure the wood fills the cylinder as much as possible and strike dead center or you can break a skirt.

Diesel piston heads are thicker compared to gasoline engines and many have steel heads.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I should have been more specific about that being on the head of the piston downwards. I have never put wood on the piston skirt and hit upwards.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I understood.

If you hit the top of the piston off center, the force could make the piston rock on the wrist pin and the skirt would take a hit.

[QUOTE=Diesel911;4192753]Diesel piston heads are thicker compared to gasoline engines and many have steel heads.[/QUOT

The 123 turbodiesel's piston crown is hollow so oil can carry away more heat, so I suspect it is thinner on top than an na piston.

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

Holy cow guys! I hope it doesn’t come to anything this drastic. I’m going to avoid pulling the head off for now. I’ll keep soaking and rocking and if it doesn’t come loose by next week I’ll pull the oil pan and see what I can see looking up from the bottom. Thanks again for the advice! Appreciate it!

be careful with the crank bolt.

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

Heat helps the chemical action. Use the block heater if possible. At least part of the time.