New to diesels and MB.

Searched the forum and can't make up my mind if I want to use a one-time additive since my car is new to me. Why? IDK, clean injectors etc??? I don't have any issues, just trying to get her to be in her best running condition.

I have not diesel purged yet since I already changed both fuel filters (next time), but is an additive just snake oil??????

What say all you?? Thanks.

What car what engine are we discussing?

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92 e300d2.5t
01 e320
05 cdi
85 chev c10

I used an additive thinking I probably had algae in the tank. I think the car sat for 8 years. The lift filter was pretty black. Then the car began losing power at speed. So I figured the screen in the tank was plugged. Turns out the tank was spotless and there wasn’t algae in the tank, it was just really old filters, mostly the main since I’d changed the lift filter earlier. Changed both filters and it was up and running strong again. So the additive I put in the tank was not really necessary. On the other hand, I did run it on one cans worth pure diesel purge and that seemed to smooth the idle out a bit.

Your mileage may vary.

Michael

I try to use “Diesel Treat” every fill up. It is said that the sulfur compounds removed from Dino Diesel were the slippery parts. And lubricity additive it’s beneficial, as diesels depend to some extent on the lubricating nature of diesel as we knew it. First gen bio diesel supposedly had better lubricity than old Dino. Which, unless I am really wrong, is part of why it’s commonly added to the diesel we buy at the pump.

I’ve read good reviews for Diesel Treat, and it can be had for a good price at Walmart and more and more standard auto parts outlet. Used to be a lot more expensive at NAPA than it is now for example.

But don’t take my word for it, research it and get back to me with what you find, positive or negative.

I only use Dino diesel on long trips. Here in the bay area we get HPR diesel, a second gen biodiesel that’s pretty good stuff. It’s state subsidized, recycled oil and tallow, Makes it a carbon neutral fuel, though there was some carbon involved in growing and processing the feed stocks.

They say they add lubricity compounds but I’ve also read that it is weak in that department. OTOH I’ve read that it’s not good to have too much of that in your fuel.

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1986 300SDL, 362K
1984 300D, 138K

Welcome to the forum. Take a look at this site - Mercedes-Benz Specifications for Operating Fluids:
https://bevo.mercedes-benz.com/index.php?language_id=1

Scroll down to the different types of fluids, and click on Fuel. As you will see, the site also has specifications for other operating fluids- engine oil, transmission, differential, and so on.

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Marshall Welch
Seattle, WA
1982 300D-T

94, 250 D 2.5

I run a little Stanadyne in my 99 E300. Goal is to protect the injection pump.

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Jim

If I recall correctly, I've read that the 5%-10% biodiesel added to most diesel fuels adds sufficient lubricity to protect the injection pumps, at least on the older models (eg, the 617.92_ series). In these engines, my understanding is that the upper injection pump relies on fuel for lubrication, and the lower part of the pump utilizes engine oil.

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Marshall Welch
Seattle, WA
1982 300D-T

I add 3 Oz of 2 stroke oil every fill to ensure the IP is getting some lubrication. I do this only to my 92 2.5 turbo since it was manufactured when diesel was not as clean as it is today.

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92 e300d2.5t
01 e320
05 cdi
85 chev c10

Additive has always made a big difference in my diesels, so I always use it. Haven’t noticed much of a difference between products, so lately I’ve been using the howes diesel treet because it’s inexpensive. My first W123 was pretty neglected, and the single best thing I ever did for that car was start using fuel additive. It made a noticeable difference in throttle response and power.

I put some 2-stroke oil in every few fill ups.

I use PS year round with equal part 2 cycle oil mixed in.

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Steve A
92 W140 OM603
97 VW Jetta TDI
90 Passat variant TDI 6 speed MT
94 Chevy K1500 6.5TD
05 E320 CDI
+ others

I use Opti-Lube with every tankful. Small price to pay to know for certain my fuel has adequate lubricity. Summer formula for most of the year then XPD for winter.

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14 E250 Bluetec "Sinclair", Palladium Silver on Black, 153k miles
06 E320 CDI "Rutherford", Black on Tan, 171k mi, Stage 1 tune, tuned TCU
91 300D "Otis", Smoke Silver, 142k mi, wastegate conversion

19 Honda CR-V EX 61k mi
Fourteen other MB's owned and sold
1961 Very Tolerant Wife

THIS stuff??

https://www.amazon.com/Howes-103060-Diesel-Conditioner-Anti-Gel/dp/B001JT3I0U

That’s the stuff. You said it with some incredulity, like perhaps you can’t believe I would recommend this garbage. I mean, just the caps and double question mark. Not trying to give you grief, just not sure what your POV is here. I’ve read good reviews for the stuff. Lately I’ve been reading that you don’t want to use too much. I saved a couple of those Lucas fuel additive bottles, the tall skinny ones, to use as a sort of a measuring device and convenient thing to keep in the trunk. I fill them in my shop. Instructions call for one fluid ounce for 5 gallons, those Lucas bottles hold 5 ounces. My SDL holds 23 and some gallons, I often put the whole thing in on a fill up. I could estimate four ounces, might be better. The stuff costs about eight cents an ounce, not too much to add to the price per gallon.

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1986 300SDL, 362K
1984 300D, 138K