OM648 2006 CDI injector puller - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

ah-kay · #1 10-31-2021, 01:30 AM

Want to pull the injector but it won't budge. Car has 287k miles and I doubt the injectors have ever been removed. There seems to be a lot of pullers around. Any recommendations based on successful removal. Thanks.

Diesel911 · #2 11-02-2021, 07:49 PM

You might do a google image search and see if there is a youtube video on using the pullers. That would give you a good idea what it takes to do the job.

duxthe1 · #3 11-02-2021, 08:24 PM

Get it good and hot first. ~110C should make it more agreeable.

jay_bob · #4 11-03-2021, 06:20 AM

https://youtu.be/zEp4GjcXy3o

Alex "Legit Street Cars" ex-Mercedes dealer mechanic explains it all...

ah-kay · #5 11-03-2021, 09:57 AM

https://www.germanspecialtytools.com/products/benz-cdi-engine-common-rail-injector-puller-kit-slide-hammer-style

I was looking for puller recommendations. I bought this. Wish me luck.

shertex · #6 11-03-2021, 10:19 AM

Out of curiosity, why do you want to pull the injectors? Preemptive replacement of seal rings?

jay_bob · #7 11-04-2021, 06:39 AM

In that video I linked, if you expand the description below the video, he lists links to all the tools he uses in the video.

ah-kay · #8 11-04-2021, 09:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shertex

Out of curiosity, why do you want to pull the injectors? Preemptive replacement of seal rings?

The car is not running right. It was missing at idle and is progressively getting worse. I think it is the injectors. In any event, #1 injector is stuck. It has to come out and check. There is no black death so don't understand why the same is stuck.

ah-kay · #9 11-10-2021, 10:04 PM

I bought the tool and managed to pull the injectors except #6. Replaced #1 injectors as I knew it was causing mis-fire. Anyway, when I put it back together I stripped the bolt. I did not clear all the carbon debris and the thread was stripped. Basically it is lack of experience. I can still bolt it down but it is not very tight. What can to do to fix it? Any suggestion will be welcome.

Diesel911 · #10 11-11-2021, 04:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ah-kay

I bought the tool and managed to pull the injectors except #6. Replaced #1 injectors as I knew it was causing mis-fire. Anyway, when I put it back together I stripped the bolt. I did not clear all the carbon debris and the thread was stripped. Basically it is lack of experience. I can still bolt it down but it is not very tight. What can to do to fix it? Any suggestion will be welcome.

How much torque is needed to tighten it down?

Typical thread restorations stuff like helicoils and timeserts would work of there is enough meat on them.

When those were not available and it was possible I used I drilled and tapped for the next size up in diameter blot. You have to evaluate all of your parts to that.
When I had an issue with a metric as you stated I once drilled and tapped for an SAE size bolt which turned out to be slightly fatter in diameter.

Of course this was not a cylinder head: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/353497-w123-sheared-off-lower-sock-bolt-head-drill-out.html

I used the US size bolt because I had taps and drills for that.

"So the Hardware Store had the 7/16" Bolts and I did the drill and tapping and it turned out fine."

I never paid attention at Autozon but Pepboys has helicoil kits that are compete for a single size. Likely OK on aluminum but I don't think the supplied drill bit would do very many holes in cast iron.

The issue with drilling any hole is if it is going to go straight in or not.

I think they sell still filled epoxies for automotive use for thread repair but you have to use it in conjunction with a Stud. You essentially put epoxy in the degreased clean hole that has the damaged threads and screw the Stud in and let it cure for the proper amount of time (takes longer if it is cold, read the instructions). This is why I asked now tight it needs to be tightened to.

ah-kay · #11 11-11-2021, 07:08 PM

It is not very tight. Only 7NM then another 90 degree. I am looking at all my options. The car is running good but is leaking combustion gas a bit. The copper seal ring is not sealing well. Could be I did not or could not torque it down enough. Also I might need to ream the head where the seal ring sits.

Diesel911 · #12 11-11-2021, 08:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ah-kay

It is not very tight. Only 7NM then another 90 degree. I am looking at all my options. The car is running good but is leaking combustion gas a bit. The copper seal ring is not sealing well. Could be I did not or could not torque it down enough. Also I might need to ream the head where the seal ring sits.

Keep in mind I don't know what any of what you are describing looks like.

Presuming the threads were able to hold the torque and not yield a new copper crush washer is supposed to seal. If not that brings up the reaming issue.

I knew about the tool because I had seen that on eBay and also way back in the past some other Bosch direct Injection Injectors also needed a puller. Hence I know of the possibility of a puller.

Diesel911 · #13 11-11-2021, 09:06 PM

Don't know if this will be helpful or not:

https://www.benzworld.org/threads/2006-e320-cdi-injector-bolt-broke.3015692/page-2

Injector seal leak warning
https://www.benzworld.org/threads/diesel-injector-seal-leak-warning.1409295/

Here is one where the bolt won't tighten
https://forums.mercedesclub.org.uk/index.php?threads/injector-hold-down-bolt.181043/

Injector seal leak. in post number 4 I ask what was done about the pitting on the Injector Nut which is part of the sealing area:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/386769-om642-injector-seal-leak-ml320-cdi.html

On eBay the seal area cutter sets seem to be from the $36 to the $50 something range. If you use one put grease on the cutter to make the chips stick in the grease and not fall into the Engine.

I did not view them but it seems like there could be some youtube viids on using the cutter.

ah-kay · #14 02-17-2022, 02:17 AM

Let me conclude this thread. Car is fixed. I stripped the thread on #5 bolt hole. One should clean the thread real good and making sure the bolt can be threaded by hand all the way down. I insert a m6 helicoil and all is well. It was a blind and deep hole so one has to be careful when threading the coil. The valve cover has to come off so it was a lot of work. Also I bought another injector puller to remove #6. The puller works by inserting a connecting bolt into the injector and then tighten a nut to pull the injector out. It is very effective but the injector is compromised as the top is unscrewed. Bottom line is that it is not easy to remove injector on new diesel car.

Murkybenz · #15 02-17-2022, 03:01 AM

You really need helicoils or timeserts and use a new original factory bolt to do the job as they expand at the same rate as the engine as it warms up whereas a bolt from the hardware store won’t expand at the same rate and this eventually rips the insert out or the threads strip and bolt becomes loose.