Is there a tool for installing the W123 front lower ball joint that is ready made for the task and not something that has to be cobbled together?

Yes there is. Do an ebay search.

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Jim

Check out the Tool Rental program on this forum. A few years ago, I put down a deposit, paid a very reasonable rental fee, and paid for shipping. The cost was far less than buying a tool I would seldom use. And using the right tool on those lower ball joints made the job easy.

Post 31 shows 2 of he real tools for installation. The tubular JTC 1849 has to be used in conjunction with a hydraulic press. The C shaped tool is made for the job and that one I believe is a Sir Tool version of the Klann Tool and Baum Tool also makes a version. Note the below is a long thread.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/267618-advanced-auto-ball-joint-press-tool-3.html

I go by 300D man over on the benzworld forum. In post 5 is a pic of me using a C-press that you can get as a free rental from places like Autozone.
In the picture you see red arrows pointing to where I should have taken the time to enlarge the hole of a large thick washer to better stabilize it.

The Draw backs of the C-press are that the Threaded rods on them (I own 2 but used the Autozone one to test it) have a lot of play and wobble side to side so keeping things lined up is more difficult. Some of the accessories are kind of crude castings. If you get a rental one you need to be sure parts of the press are not dented in critical areas.

In order to use the C-Press you need to remove the Ball Joint Boot.
https://www.benzworld.org/threads/300d-lower-ball-joint-installation.2176457/

Eventually there is some pics using the JTC 1849 tool
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/179284-write-up-ball-joints-lower-control-arm-bushings-tool-review-pics.html

Post 8 has some links.
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/308471-lca-bushing-ball-joint-should-i-buy.html

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I used a C tool I rented from Autozone. There was some combination of inserts that looked right and the joint went in OK and then cocked a bit. I evened it out using a flat punch and hammer on the back side of joint and it went in no problem.

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CC: NSA

All things are burning, know this and be released.

82 Benz 240 D, Kuan Yin
12 Ford Escape 4wd

You're four times

It's hard to

more likely to

concentrate on

have an accident

two things

when you're on

at the same time.

a cell phone.

www.kiva.org It's not like there's anything wrong with feeling good, is there?

There is 2 C press kits. One has only 4 sleeves and the other has a much larger selection of sleeves. Supposably the one with the larger selection of sleeves has what is needed; at least that is what Hunter said long ago.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Probably. I think it wasn't just a matter of sleeves but some flat adapters too. A bit of experience and suitable tools change the job from an epic saga into not a very big deal. Ignorance has a way of changing things into an epic saga, doesn't it? If it didn't buy a part with a silicone boot on it, I think I replaced the rubber one with a silicone one. To do this, you unwrap the spring clip with a needlenose pliers and reverse to put it back on.

__________________
CC: NSA

All things are burning, know this and be released.

82 Benz 240 D, Kuan Yin
12 Ford Escape 4wd

You're four times

It's hard to

more likely to

concentrate on

have an accident

two things

when you're on

at the same time.

a cell phone.

www.kiva.org It's not like there's anything wrong with feeling good, is there?

Not the sleeves I was speaking of. C-press kits come with a few steel tube sleeves but the more expensive one some with more steel sleeves and adapters. There is also just an extensive set of steel sleeves and adapters.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Look for Rollguy's post on tightening the C-clamp, then hitting the bolt with a hammer, repeating. If not, you almost stretch the C-clamp out of shape.

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1984 & 1985 CA 300D's
1964 & 65 Mopar's - Valiant, Dart, Newport
1996 & 2002 Chrysler minivans

All the more reason for using the correct tool. With the proper press, it takes all of two minutes to press the joint in. And there is no aggravation or possibility of damage whatsoever. No disassembly required, either.

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When cryptography is outlawed, bayl bhgynjf jvyy unir cevinpl.

It seems most of the references I see to doing this job involve removing the entire spindle and knocking the old one out with a hammer, then installing new one with press. I could have sworn I have seen a tool that presses the old one out and new on in while its ON the car. Did I just dream this up? I seem to recall watching a video on it featuring a MB tech complete with blue lab coat demonstrating the tool.

Tangofox007, Rollguy used the tool shown in Diesel911's post, as did I. Do you know of a more "correct" tool? I recall photos of a split tube which lets you press in the balljoint using a shop press, but might have to fab your own today. I started bending the Autozone loaner C-clamp tool. Since then I bought the HF version. I didn't know Rollguy's trick. To remove it, a big hammer. Search for post "Redneck Balljoint Removal".

There are some very high-dollar hydraulic presses designed for on-the-car ball joint removal. The sledge hammer technique is probably the best option for the shade tree DIY'er. It's also the technique shown in the MB service manual.

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When cryptography is outlawed, bayl bhgynjf jvyy unir cevinpl.

The JTC 1849 tool comes with a cylindrical punch for removing the Ball Joint which I remember correctly is what is shown in the Manual. If you can get the steering knuckle mounted in a press you can use the cylindrical punch or a substitute like a large deep socket to press it out.

The Manual shows putting the Steering Knuckle in a vice and beating it out with a cylindrical punch.

The below is from the Mercedes CD manual; the manual is free on some sites. Notice that there is simply a cylindrical punch.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel