Hi, I have a 190D 2.5 non-turbo.

I just did a diesel purge and replaced my primary and secondary fuel filters.

The car is much quieter and idles better now.....after it warms up.

The car will always start after I glow the plugs, but it idles real rough, now that I did the diesel purge, for about a minute or until I start to drive. Then it will rough idle intermittently, like at a traffic light, until it gets up to operating temperature. Then it drives beautifully.

No diesel leaks, real dry around the injection pump. I also checked to make sure I didn't knock off any vacuum lines. I am thinking that perhaps I freed dirt up after the diesel purge and it is sitting in an injector??

Any ideas?

? did it idle roughly when cold before the Diesel purge ? .

Did you remember to insert a fuel filter in the return fuel hose before doing the Diesel purge ? .

Did you see any crud in the catch bottle ? .

Did you replace both fuel filters after doing the purge ? .

What color is the fuel inside the clear plastic intake screen now ? .

__________________
-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

When I did the purge I kept the original pre and secondary fuel filters in place.
After the purge, I replaced both of those filters.

The diesel purge got dirty as I continued the operation but I did not see any residue in the bottom of the container.

This is the second purge I have done in 8K miles because the car was new to me this summer and it had been sitting a few months before I got it.
The diesel going into the primary filter now looks very clean.

The tank was cleaned a couple thousand miles ago and so was the filter/strainer in the tank.

Before I did the latest purge, it was not as hard starting. It just sounds violent now when I start it first thing in the morning.

I thought maybe it was air in the injector, but then I read that the injectors for the 190D self prime after starting the car a few times.

O.K., well and good .

Yes, the injectors will self bleed of air after running a bit but if there's a tiny leak anywhere in the fuel system on the engine air will get in when it's sitting .

Have you grabbed each and every bit of flexible fuel hose and wiggled it ? .

You may find a really small leak .

Your car is much newer than the old OM616/616/603's I work on but I'm trying to give you some idea of where to look .

If there are any clear (maybe yellowed by now) plastic fuel hoses, wipe them off and look closely as he engine runs and skips ~ any air bubbles are a serious problem and usually easily fixed .

Any way you could take a decent picture of under the hood and post it ? .

Someone here is guaranteed to know your car forwards and back .

Remember : ALL the hoses are Diesel specific ! I got hosed more than once in flyover country when the boob at NAPA sold me vacuum hose instead of Diesel rated fuel hose .

I'd make 1,000 miles and begin smelling Diesel fuel again .

__________________
-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

Thank you.

The flexible fuel hose is all new.
I will try to get a picture of the engine compartment up in the next couple days.

I am thinking a dirty injector, or I may pull my injectors for inspection and pressure test.

The injectors are original to the car and have 169K on them.

Do you know how long injectors usually last?

With you milage I would think the nozzles are shot. If your stock Nozzles are like the ones on the OM617.952 engines there is a tiny passaged drilled in the tip and up further at a 90-degree angle to that passage. When I pulled mine, those passages were entirely plugged with carbon. And once that happens, I don't think any purge is going to unclog them.

I think periodic purges might have kept them clear.

If you pull the injectors and the tip of the nozzle looks like the one in post 16 it has the drilled passages.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/262833-injector-fuel-line-nozzle-broke-2.html

Post 12 has a diagram of the Injector Nozzle and a bubble with a close up of the drilled passages if you have those.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/259755-injector-nozzle-assembly.html

If you have the old-style hand primer with the shiny aluminum body and hard plastic top that are a frequent source of air leaks.

__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Great info., thanks.

I have a new set of injector nozzles ready to go.

If I the injectors apart, insert the new nozzles inside the old injector casings and keep all parts together to each injector, do I need to pop test them to get them all to the same pressure? Or is that not necessary.

I don't own a pop tester.

Pop testing is absolutely necessary to get the injectors working properly.
Take them to a local diesel service shop or send them out (a few members here on the forum service injectors).

Phil Forrest

__________________
1972 220D "Trudy," named by a friend.

"The 220D sounds good... I suspect it is the only car that you need a calendar for, rather than a stopwatch, when doing acceleration tests."
Tom Abrahamsson

Swapping the Nozzles with new ones sometimes has the assembled injector leaking between the Nozzle Nut and the upper body. The surfaces in between are supposed to be lapped before assembly.
Also as mentioned swapping the nozzles will not return the Injector to the proper opening pressure.

However, if your nozzles are badly worn out swapping the Nozzles often shows an obvious change.

The parts if the individual injector nozzles are mated together so don't mix them up. Deal with one nozzle at a time.

When you take a part, an Injector keep all of the part with that Injector together.

When you take an Injector apart there is a middle plate. Note the direction that middle plate is assembled. If you don't put it in the same direction and torque the Injector it normally will crack off a piece of and ruin a new nozzle.

How to rebuild IDI Injectors.

https://vincewaldon.com/2008/10/29/how-to-rebuild-diesel-idi-injectors/9

If that did not work go to the below site and go to page 2 number 2

https://vincewaldon.com/page/2/?option=com_content&task=view&id=20&Itemid=28#038;task=view&id=20&Itemid=28

New heat shields are considerably cheaper bought off of the internet.

__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Fantastic. Thank you.

As I said :

The collected brain trust here is incredible as is the services and repairs some do to help out .

As mentioned, _DO_ take the injectors to a place that can pop test them BEFORE you take them apart ! this is part of the diagnosis .

If you put your city or state in your signature others who are close to you will chime in with typical 'I'm near you and I use ' XXX ' to repair my XXXX.....

Anyplace that services those big refrigerated trailers will have an injector pop tester or know who does .

Greezer, a member here does wonderful injector servicing at less co$t than anyone else and he balances your set to within 5# pop pressure making your engine run smoother, stronger and more economically plus LESS SMOKE even if your engine is beat, at your low mileage I'd think all it needs is a stone cold valve adjust and some overhauled injectors to get you going again .

Remember : COLD VALVE ADJUSTMENT FIRST ! - the order in which you do things is as important as what you do .

__________________
-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

Quick follow up.

I replaced my injector nozzles.

The car starts up immediately now but idles roughly until it warms up. It idled roughly before I replaced the injector nozzles and took much longer to quiet down than it does now, so there is improvement there.

I don't see any leaks and I replaced all of the flexible fuel line.

It is almost as if there is air in the lines that works its way through after it warms up, or maybe a bad glow plug even though the glow plugs are all new?

Once the car warms up it is super quiet, and the engine doesn't shake at all.
Runs beautifully at all speeds, quietly with plenty of smooth shifting and power. Mileage comes in between 31-38 mpg overall.

Any ideas what this could be?

When I put my injection pump back on last month I had a really rough idle at startup. I checked my timing and it was about eight degrees late. Once I adjusted it all was fine. Somehow having late timing when cold resulted in a stumbling idle. But after it warmed up ten seconds or so it would smooth out and tolerate the mistiming.

Anyhow I got it set properly and it starts and runs fine.

__________________
79 300TD “Old Smokey” AKA “The Mistake” (SOLD)
82 240D stick shift 335k miles (SOLD)
82 300SD 300k miles
85 300D Turbodiesel 170k miles

Look at the translucent fuel pipe coming up from behind the injection pump ~if there's an air in the system you'll see them there .

Otherwise I'd check the valve gaps again making sure the engine is stone cold then motor on happy with the 30 + MPG .

__________________
-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

I cracked the fuel injector lines and turned the car over until fuel came out of the lines and then re-tightened, in an attempt to bleed the air out of the system. I am pretty sure that is the way to do it??

I'll take it out tomorrow for a drive. Snow and cold weather here in Maryland today.