New-to-me car. Having an issue with the central locking.

Symptoms:
- key works in door, trunk, and ignition.
- remote button on key operates the immobilizer - changes the red/green lights in rearview mirror
- trunk release button on center console operates trunk correctly
- door lock/release button on center console works
--HOWEVER key fob button does not open/close all doors - only does immobilizer

I've had Willy's of Great Neck, NY (widely regarded as an MB Wizard) look at the car and tell me that I need a new key, but can only get one from a stealership.

So, I stopped by MB Manhattan (on 11th Ave in the fifties,) last week and jumped through all their hoops to get a new key ordered, and was promised that I should get a payment link via text or email for "about $300" which would fire off the order process.

It's almost a week later and I've heard nothing. So, I called parts and spoke with the same droid (who shall remain nameless) again today, and it was a Marx bros-esque comedic cluster.....
>breathes in and out several times...<

It was an interesting customer service experience, and a joy to be able to teach a twenty-something drone about some basic customer service techniques. After not being able to find my order, and then not being able to find me in the system (he photocopied all my documents last week and I watched him enter all the info into the system), we had to resort to the VIN number for him to look the car up and then tell me that... "that key is on backorder with no ETA."

And that seemed to be it.

End of story.

It was like trying to get info from a clam above the high tide line, but I finally managed to wedge a knife into his understanding of the situation and offered one of two possible courses of action on his part - that he either ask his manager how to solve the problem for the customer, or that he call his distributor / the factory and find out whether they planned to make any more keys. I'm fascinated to know whether I will receive a callback tomorrow.

All of which is something of a digression, what I really want to ask here is....

1. Is this assessment of the problem likely correct?

2. Is the Manhattan, factory owned, dealership always this bad?!?
3. Any recommendations for a dealership with a few more braincells in the parts department who will charge me LESS than $300 for a key. One key. For what can't be a particularly high tech key... yeeshk.
4. Any third party options to get working central locking?

Thanks in advance for any pointers!

Call Anissa at Jackson Automotive (local MB dealer) in Macon, Ga. Tell her Jim sent you. She will need documentation no matter what. See if she can help. She does a good job.

__________________
Jim

FWIW, I got a quote for a new key from my local MB dealer here in SW PA. My car is a '97 E300D NA. I currently have only 1 completely functional key/fob. They told me it would cost around $300. Which, considering all it does and what would be the alternative to getting "stuck" with my one and only key nonfunctional (lost, broken, etc.), I didn't think was too bad a price. I do have a second fob. It's broken, won't unlock/lock doors with the "button". However, the "metal" key, in the broken plastic non-functioning fob, will work in the ignition and trunk (unlocking the car).
For some things, I think sometimes, ya just gotta bite the bullet.....

jw2k_fr,

You could use the steel key without a functioning remote fob on it, or a regular key without the fob. I do this with my '96 because I don't trust the remote fob, and the steel key works all the locks fine.

__________________
- Greg -
1973 220D, The Prodigal Benz
1974 240D

Hmmm, with mine the steel key does not open and close all the doors when locking or unlocking the driver's door lock?

Should it? Or is there a problem with something other than the key?

The 97's have the square switchblade steel keys IIRC? I have heard that these have been hard to source for a few years now

The flip keys are still available new. I just ordered one from MB Greenwich CT. Tall to Paul in the parts dept. There are only like 30 keys left and he said they will not be getting replenished.

Wanted to make sure we weren't comparing apples to oranges..... Did you mean to say the metal "key" is available or the entire "fob" w/key, case, circuit board, etc? Last I spoke with my local MB parts dept., a few months ago, they did a "national search" for available stock at MB dealers. I was told there were over 300 available (fobs/keys). My parts guy seemed to think I had some time to decide what I was gonna do. He was of the mind set that 300 fobs for a 25 yr old Mercedes weren't gonna be "flyin off the shelves", so to speak.
Who knows? He could be mistaken.
BTW, in addition to the requisite documents, proof of ownership, etc., I was told they also need the actual automobile to complete the job. Unless there's a way to "marry" a new fob to the car with the proper scanner, etc. (assuming you have said scanner/knowledge)? So, short of a way to pair the new fob to the car, you can't just send away for a new fob by supplying VIN, title, etc. At least that's my understanding.....of course, I could be wrong.
I guess you might get the fob from one dealer? (for a better price) and have it married to the car at your local dealer? (for another price). Can't see how that'd be saving much green, though.
If anyone "out there" knows for sure, that'd be great. I'd really like to get a new fob/key for my '97 E300. And, if I didn't hafta spend 300 clams, even better. 2 complete, working fobs/keys is my goal.

Yes, when you operate the lock at the driver's door (or trunk) with a regular steel key inserted into the lock's cylinder, all the car's locks should do what that door (or trunk) does. When you lock the driver's door, all the other locks should lock. Same with unlocking. Using the key this way does everything the remote does minus engaging/disengaging the immobilizer.

It sounds like your car has a problem with the central locking system that isn't associated with a key, remote fob equipped or not. I might think the vacuum system wasn't working properly, but you made the following statement in your initial post that indicates that the vacuum system works:

- door lock/release button on center console works

The car uses vacuum instead of electric solenoids or motors to operate the locking/unlocking of the doors, truck, and fuel filler door. If that system wasn't working then you'd have to operate all the locks manually. Do you ever notice the vacuum pump running? It's under the back seat where the battery is, wrapped in a foam box.

__________________
- Greg -
1973 220D, The Prodigal Benz
1974 240D

I ordered the full flip key with transponder for my 1997 C36. Here is what they said regarding the availability.

The fob is still available (37 left), but is marked “no longer available once stock is depleted”. They also have a mechanical key without the button.

Thanks for the update. Seems what they told me earlier (300+ available nationwide) may have been erroneous. Gonna stop by my MB dealer tomorrow and order mine. According to my owners manual, the car came with 2 fobs, 1 "valet key" and 1 "flat key". The manual suggests you "carry the flat key with you" and also suggests keeping it in your wallet (very thorough, those Germans). I bought my E300 from the original owner. I got 1 working fob, 1 non-working broken fob w/working metal key and nothing else. I guess they lost track of the other 2 keys somewhere along the way. Oh well. The owners manual is pristine, w/MB leather booklet and they managed to save the original window sticker (bonus!)
Will report back........

Yes, that's correct. When locking the doors manually using the door "pins" in the top of the trim below the window, they feel very spongy to depress. Which makes me think you might be right about the vacuum pump.

I've not heard anything which I would associate with that, but then the car is still new to me. When would I expect to hear it running, and what should it sound like?

As you mentioned you're "new" to these cars and systems, check out forum archives or basic net search for MB vacuum lock system. There's enough info out there to keep you busy for quite a while.
The locking system is quite unique, simple but robust and works amazingly well. It also functions/lasts many years without any maintenance usually. Of course, eventually, something in the system may degrade but it's all fairly easy to trouble shoot and repair.

Also, when pushing and pulling on the "door pins in the top of the trim below the window", these will feel nothing like you're used to on a "normal" car locking system. Stored vacuum holds them up and keeps them down.

My '83 240D has a perfectly functioning vacuum lock system. I needed to replace the fuel door lock vacuum actuator when I got the car and that was it! Prior to replacement, I simply removed it from the "system" and plugged the lines (with golf tee's). The lock system worked like a champ. Hard to believe on an almost 40 year old car/system.

The lock systems are quite similar on the older and newer cars (as far as vacuum functions are concerned). My '83 doesn't have an infrared remote or immobilizer. But, the "vacuum" component is pretty much the same. My '83 gets vacuum from an engine driven vacuum pump. I, too, wasn't aware of the electric pump under the back seat of my E300. My '97 lock system works great so haven't needed to "dive in", yet.

jw2k_fr,

To get at the vacuum pump lift up the back seat bottom. On the RH side of the car you'll see the battery, a block with a bunch of fuses in it, and the foam box that contains the vacuum pump. You'll also see a bundle of plastic hoses that goes into that foam box. The foam looks like carpet padding, and is used to deaden the sound of the vacuum pump.

Close the rear doors, then take a seat up front and close that door. Using the switch on the dash, cycle the locks a few times. You don't need to start the car or turn anything on with the key. In my car the pump runs every time I press the switch up or down. I can hear it clearly even with the back seat bottom in place. Based on what you've already reported I expect that you'll find the pump works just fine (door lock/release button on center console works).

If you don't get any action from the pump under the seat that's a problem in itself. If the pump is running and the locking/unlocking action works when using the switch on the dash, but doesn't when using the remote or the steel key in the door, then you've got another problem.

Your remote fob turning the immobilizer on and off seems to indicate that the remote fob works. The steel key used in the driver's door not working the other locks in the car points to trouble that doesn't relate to the fob or steel key. I'm curious to know whether or not the steel key operates all the locks when you use it in the trunk. If it does, that would seem to point to trouble in the driver's door or something connected to it.

__________________
- Greg -
1973 220D, The Prodigal Benz
1974 240D

Wow! Great info, gmog. As usual. I, too, have never heard that pump running on my 97 E300. I guess the sound deadening is doin its job!
Currently at the MB dealer lookin into a new fob/key. Always educational! Turns out the 95 fob is different than the 96 which is different from the 97, etc. They are not interchangeable, of course. My '97 fob/key is $245. There were ONLY 17 left, nationally. After that, NLA and SOL. It arrives programmed and the key cut. I also ordered the flat "master key". It is $45. Not cheap, but my only working fob has seen better days and is ready to blow up like an over wound clock! Too bad the PO didnt take better care......