Crazy prices from Mercedes for our old cars! - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Graham · #1 07-02-2023, 03:17 PM

I have a need for a transmission mount for my '85 300D. Part A1232402518.

Looks like the aftermarket ones are out of stock at many vendors. So, I thought I would check at our dealer (In Canada)

This part is US$12:09 at AA. It's a URO. US$28 incl shipping to Canada. Ended up buying URO off Amazon as it was only choice, it seems.

This is what Canadian dealer has:

Same thing from US on-line dealer is US$228 ($168 after discount) Whoopy doo!

vstech · #2 07-03-2023, 12:10 PM

Yes, it seems MB is trying to get us all to get rid of our classic cars and buy something else...
I tried for a long time to find a clutch disc for my 87 190D 5 speed...
Nla...
Had to source from elsewhere... Pelican couldn't vent find any aftermarket brands...

URO Parts Support · #3 07-05-2023, 04:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Graham

It's a URO. US $28 incl shipping to Canada.

Same thing from US on-line dealer is US$228 ($168 after discount) Whoopy doo!

That Transmission Mount 123 240 2518 should serve you well Graham. We've sold about 1,700 of them over the last 2.5 years, with zero returned as defective during the last 12 months. (Our customer service dashboard shows a 12 month trailing history.)

Graham · #4 07-27-2023, 05:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by URO Parts Support

That Transmission Mount 123 240 2518 should serve you well Graham. We've sold about 1,700 of them over the last 2.5 years, with zero returned as defective during the last 12 months. (Our customer service dashboard shows a 12 month trailing history.)

I tried to install the mount today. I got it mounted in place. Only thing needed was to tighten all the bolts. Well that did not go well!

I was just hand tightening one of the M8 bolts with short ratchet. The threads in the new URO mount stripped

This with only light hand force.

Can't imagine what sort of steel that mount is made from, but it needs to be a much stronger grade. Maybe even have nuts welded on inner side. There are only a few threads in the thin metal of the mount. They need to at least take take the normal tightening torque of M8 mounting bolts.

Right now, all I can do, is drill out the threads in the URO mount and re-tap a larger size. Inserts would not work because the metal is so thin.

I knew it was a mistake installing the URO mount, but it was all that was available. Hopefully some good quality makes will come back on the market.

URO Parts Support · #5 07-27-2023, 06:27 PM

Hi Graham, those M8 bolts are primarily loaded in shear, and don't need much torque. A 3/8" ratchet could easily hit 40+ ft-lbs. Alldata says to torque those bolts to only 22 ft-lbs. No worries though, we'll be happy to send a replacement at no charge, please PM your proof of purchase and shipping details.

We've sold almost two thousand of these with zero complaints or defect returns, but we'll keep an eye out.

Graham · #6 07-27-2023, 07:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by URO Parts Support

Hi Graham, those M8 bolts are primarily loaded in shear, and don't need much torque. A 3/8" ratchet could easily hit 40+ ft-lbs. Alldata says to torque those bolts to only 22 ft-lbs. No worries though, we'll be happy to send a replacement at no charge, please PM your proof of purchase and shipping details.

We've sold almost two thousand of these with zero complaints or defect returns, but we'll keep an eye out.

I didn't put any real torque on the bolt. Probably not even measurable. Just screwed it in and it just kept turning and pulled the threads out. The second bolt didn't do that, but I stopped before it felt tight. PM being sent. Not sure I want to do the job again, but will keep second one as spare. (Yes, the bolts did have the washers on)

JHZR2 · #7 07-27-2023, 11:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by URO Parts Support

Hi Graham, those M8 bolts are primarily loaded in shear, and don't need much torque. A 3/8" ratchet could easily hit 40+ ft-lbs. Alldata says to torque those bolts to only 22 ft-lbs. No worries though, we'll be happy to send a replacement at no charge, please PM your proof of purchase and shipping details.

We've sold almost two thousand of these with zero complaints or defect returns, but we'll keep an eye out.

Most likely because shipping costs exceed the part cost. It would be good if you sourced first world parts at better prices than OE.

Graham · #8 07-28-2023, 09:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JHZR2

Most likely because shipping costs exceed the part cost. It would be good if you sourced first world parts at better prices than OE.

I was puzzled at first, but then realized you meant RETURN shipping costs.

Some vendors like eff see pee will actually pay for return shipping, but if not, then you are right - seller won't even see the problems that their low cost items may have.

URO Parts Support · #9 07-28-2023, 11:32 AM

^ Good points, though his mount has 4.3/5 stars on Am@zon, so return costs wouldn't have been an issue for those purchasers. The mount would have had 5/5 stars, but there's a 3/5 rating from someone who soaked the rubber with ATF for six years, and a 4/5 rating from someone who bought the wrong version mount for their car.

Graham · #10 07-28-2023, 01:38 PM

Quote:

I would suggest that URO do the same test that I just did. I think they will find that the mount cannot accept the alldata spec quoted. Then redesign with a high strength steel. In other words use mechanical engineering, not Amazon returns

I forgot to mention that I also did a test on the old mount. No problem tightening to 22 ft.lb. No stripping. Shows that the problem is with the steel used for the URO mount.

I have now drilled and tapped the new URO mount to 3/8-16. Looking at recommended torques for the lowest quality low carbon steel, it looks like I should use about 12ft lb or 144 in-lb. And be careful applying it!

URO are sending me a replacement. If I use it, I will keep torque really low. For Grade 2 bolts, the recommended torque is just 8ft.lb. Or 13ft.lb for Grade 5. Not sure I even had that when first one stripped.

URO really need to do some research on this. Most people will either just tighten by hand to some unknown torque, or use the spec of 22ft.lb and end up with stripped threads.

Frank Reiner · #11 07-28-2023, 05:42 PM

Mea culpa!! This is a high-jack.

This from an order acknowledgement:

Order total
Includes all fees, taxes, discounts and driver tip $11.42

Exorbitant prices from MB, and UPS just reupped their contract with the Teamsters, so of course there needs to be a tip on top of it all.

URO Parts Support · #12 07-28-2023, 06:28 PM

Hi everyone, we just torque-tested the mount threads.

Using a grade 8.8 bolt and Snap-on Torque Wrench QD2FR75 that's calibration-tested by Snap-On every six months (must test within 4% to pass, ours is currently within 1%), the 8mm female threads on URO Transmission Mount 123 240 2518 yielded right around 32 ft-lbs every time. That explains why there haven't been any prior reports of the threads stripping, since yield torque is about 50% higher than the factory specified bolt torque.

The torque on the Princess Powerfist wrench used in post #10 is off by at least 52% (which is when the threads yielded). Testing would be necessary to determine the actual inaccuracy, which could be substantially more. Princess Powerfist specs
~

Graham · #13 07-28-2023, 09:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by URO Parts Support

Hi everyone, we just torque-tested the mount threads.

The torque on the Princess Powerfist wrench used in post #10 is off by at least 52% (which is when the threads yielded). Testing would be necessary to determine the actual inaccuracy, which could be substantially more. Princess Powerfist specs
~

That is nonsense. Don't just make stuff up. As described in post #4, I never even used my torque wrench when the mount threads stripped. I used a ratchet and was holding it about 6" from the end and just hand tightening. I never got to the point where I applied any actual force. It just stripped and kept turning.

Regarding my torque wrench - You said mine is 50% off. How would you know that? I used that same wrench on the URO mount and on the old OE mount when testing. The URO stripped at some very low torque and the OE did not strip at 22 Ft.Lb.

You need to do some research into the grade of steel being used for the mount.

By the way - one of my posts (that I quoted from a few posts back) was deleted???? Who did that???

Graham · #14 07-28-2023, 10:19 PM

Happened to see this post on Benzworld. Exactly same situation as I had. Mount stripped with almost no force. https://www.benzworld.org/threads/transmission-mount-not-uro-how-about-febi-or-meyle.2521537/#post-13441409

Quote:

"When I was very new - before I joined here - I bought a Uro transmission mount. Today I though "why not?" and tried to install it. One of the mount-to-crossmember bolts stripped well before torque was reached. Now I need to buy another one. Is either Febi or Meyle decent in this application? Any good alternatives to going to the Mercedes dealer? Uro - never again! Thanks for any help."

Frank Reiner · #15 07-28-2023, 10:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Graham

That is nonsense. Don't just make stuff up. As described in post #4, I never even used my torque wrench when the mount threads stripped. I used a ratchet and was holding it about 6" from the end and just hand tightening. I never got to the point where I applied any actual force. It just stripped and kept turning.

Regarding my torque wrench - You said mine is 50% off. How would you know that? I used that same wrench on the URO mount and on the old OE mount when testing. The URO stripped at some very low torque and the OE did not strip at 22 Ft.Lb.

You need to do some research into the grade of steel being used for the mount.

By the way - one of my posts (that I quoted from a few posts back) was deleted???? Who did that???

Graham, you are absolutely right to remonstrate; URO's reply is nonsense, and does indeed consist of made-up rubbish. They very much damage their image; an image that has never been particularly shiny. A more thoughtful and perceptive supplier would have 1) sent you a replacement gratis, and 2) paid for the return of the defective part so that it could be inspected.

Although the quality of the steel is on the list of possible defects, a more likely cause of the thread failure lies with the manufacturing processes.
Almost all production internal threading is done with taps known as "form" taps. They create the thread by deforming the metal, rather than cutting the metal. It is the internal equivalent of the thread rolling process that creates external threads.
The drilled hole for a thread that is to be formed is larger in diameter than the drilled hole for the same size thread that is to be cut.

Form taps and cut taps look quite similar; if a cut tap is inadvertently used in a hole that has been drilled for a form tap, the height of the resulting threads will be too short, and they will pull out readily when a fastener is screwed in. Just as happened to you.