BBs work well, but hypothetically, it would seem one could remove the entire pipe and simply block off both the outlet from the main exhaust collector manifold, and the inlet to the intake manifold cross over. Could fabricate steel plate, say 1/8 inch or so, and then drill for bolts ... assuming original bolts would be too long?

Anyone hypothetically tried this?

Same net effect, I guess, as the BB ...?

__________________
George Stephenson
1991 350 SDL (200K and she ain't bent, yet)
former 2002 E320 4Matic Wagon - good car
former 1985 300 CD - great car
former 1981 300 TD - good car
former 1972 280 SEL - not so good car
a couple of those diesel Rabbits ...40-45 mpg

I've seen this done. Use 1/4" thick stainless steel plate.

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Jim

I put a 1/16" galvanized plate under the EGR on the Volvo -- just what I had lying about. If it perforates, I make another. I installed it under the valve, easier than machining one.

Peter

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1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!

Thanks to all.

engatwork,

So, if I was to track the photo of the inlet plate back to the exhaust outlet, I would find it, too was simply blocked with a plate and the entire longitudinal pipe would be removed?

Thanks.

__________________
George Stephenson
1991 350 SDL (200K and she ain't bent, yet)
former 2002 E320 4Matic Wagon - good car
former 1985 300 CD - great car
former 1981 300 TD - good car
former 1972 280 SEL - not so good car
a couple of those diesel Rabbits ...40-45 mpg

That's right.

__________________
Jim

If the 91 engine control system is anything like the 92-95 engine control system, you'll get a check engine light and loss of power if you tamper with the EGR. There was a thread over a year ago in which someone finally figured out how to block the EGR valve and still keep power.

Sixto
91 300SE
87 300SDL