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#1
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Question for all you Mercedes diesel gurus out there.
I have found an 83 300D Turbo automatic sedan for sale in the DC area and I am wondering what a fair price would be. It has 178,000 miles. Body is in pretty good shape. Standard city dings and 20 year old faded paint. A little of the normal rust bubbles on a couple of the wheel wells. Interior is in very good condition. Didn't see any cracks in dash or rips in sees. Some chipped wood in console. Owner states the it doesn't burn oil that he's aware of. Drives great up to +70 speeds. Owner has maintenance records since 90 (when he bought the car used). The owner has done NO maintenance himself (even wiper blades) and all work was done at the same mechanic. Major repairs: At 150K miles -- transmission crapped out and was repaired At 160K miles -- new brakes, rotors, tie rods, etc... -- pretty much a full suspension overhaul (~ $2900 of repairs in 99) All oil changes every 3month/3000 miles. Things that are broken: AC blows HOT air on any setting. (Please just be the dash switch) One front tire has excessive wear on outside edge. (Alignment??) Right rear window only goes down with rear switch and only goes up w/ front switch. Tachometer does not work. ---------- Now for the million dollar question. How much would you pay for this car? He's asking $3500 -- too much? A bargain? Or how much should I offer him? Thanks in advance. |
#2
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$3500 is too much.
That pushbutton unit is over $250 new and if that is not the problem you can easily put another $750 into it getting the a/c working. I would be suspicious of the uneven tire wear. This could be an indication of some damage to the front end. Personally, I would stay away from one with rust.
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Jim |
#3
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Just an observation, so please don't anyone take offense.
I grew up on the East coast where winters were harsh and long. Road salt was spread so much that it was hard to find anything that wasn't corroded or effected somehow by the stuff. Anyhow, I always get a chuckle when people say "avoid the ones with rust". Poor sods from the snow zone shake their heads and wonder what do you mean "no rust" how is that possible? If your from the East or most of Canada for that matter, there is no such thing as a 20 year old car with no rust! Unless of course you buy a car from a museum! On the flip side, I now live on the wet (west) coast and have bought a couple of nice MB's that have "some" rust but are very repairable. The price reflected the condition and most locals probably ran away when they saw them. Regarding the car you are looking at, I would agree with the previous comments as far as value and possible cost of repairs is concerned. Be careful and look around.
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Greg '73 416 UNIMOG DoKa '85 300GD G Wagen |
#4
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$2000 max
Looking at the issues that you raise, I would imaging that if you spend 2 grand on the car, you can double that based on costs associated addressing the issues you identified and those that you don't know about.
Rust is a big issue, but it depends if it is "cosmetic" or structural. Have someone check it out, and also have the car checked out by an MB tech to see if there are any hidden issues. It also depends if you plan on driving the car for a few years or a couple and what you're willing to live with. That's a decision only you can make. Bottom line, however, he is asking close to $1,000 to $1,500 too much from my perspective. You will get a great car, but the follow=up costs may push the total cost of the car up beyond what you would be willing to pay. But, for 2 grand or a tig over, what do you have to lose, other than 3 grand. JCD |
#5
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AC blowing hot? Hopefully it's JUST the control panel! Does the compressor engage without any abnormal noises? If so, check the hoses behind the dashboard that have a tendency to disintegrate. If the compressor is making strange noises, you'll need to replace it, the receiver dryer and expansion valve too. Look to spend around $400 on parts, and $700 on labor. I know, I was planning to do the same repair to my previous car.
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#6
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i wouldnt pay more than $500 for it myself you might want to check out local auctions like up in pa gettysburg or mason dixon they get a few in there and you can get them cheap.
i have an 83 and you'll soon see there are things that need replacement that you would never even think about looking at and are importaint thats just my advice |
#7
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Buying a MBZ
s9utct,
If you're buying a MBZ to keep for a long time and figure on working on it yourself, buy either a 240D with a manual transmission or a 300D. The 240D are simpler to work on. No a/c heater probelms, no electric windows, better handling, quicker steering, lighter and best of all, you can stuff a 300D or a 300DT engine in later and have the best of all possible worlds. Check out this website in L.A., www.recycler.com for MBZs from 1977 to 1985. This is where you'll find rust free cars. Maybe you could arrange to vacation there and look at cars while on vacation. Oh, chcek the salvage cars, too. Ben |
#8
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I bought the 83 300D I've been working on last Oct for $2000. It has 134kmiles and the interior and exterior are near perfect. However, I now have about $1000 in parts in bringing the car back to spec. I feel I got a really good deal, as once the car is all back to spec, I'll be able to put at least 100k or more likely 200kmiles on her. That's a pretty good cost per mile.
If the car were near perfect $3000 is ok in my book. With the problems it has 1500 or 2000 might be closer. However, I think you have to keep in mind that a few hundred bucks either way isn't going to make the car a bad deal if you can get 100kmiles out of her. In 1993 I bought my 240D for $3000. It had 156kmiles on her and needed tires and a set of injectors. She's still going strong. I've put 95kmiles on her over the last 9 years, and I think she'll go another 95kmiles as she runs as good or better than she every has. Joe |
#9
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no pics of it????
i think its too much but my opinion can change if u let see some pics of it |
#10
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man! This sounds like exactly my car when i bought it.
1983 300DT 178K silver-blue. Tranny replaced in the 160s. Interior dirty, but near mint, paint on hood a bit thin, tach inop. sometimes, had some window button issues BUT MY A/C WORKED! i paid $2000. I felt it was a fair price since i knew the car was maintained at the dealership all the time. With the tranny being replaced thats a big +. Id pay $2000, no more. |
#11
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What I'd suggest...
you have a car which potentially will give you 10 years of service. $2,500...$3,000 might be a good ballpark.
I'd insist on a compression check for the engine...I didn't on a 300CD I just bought and wound up with nearly $3,000 in work having to be done immediately. The tire wear also concerns me a little. I never expect the AC to work. If you'd like the name of a very good mechanic in suburban Maryland who can give you a fair idea of the car's status, e-mail me at jbeek@samhsa.gov Unless there is a big problem, a MB of this vintage can be fixed up over time at a rate you can afford, at the same time you'll have great transportation. Good luck! |
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