HI!
im bad in english writing but ill try anyway

i have a w126 280SE from -83, whick is converted with a OM.603.912 engine from -88 (6cyl diesel NO turbo), i have overheating problems... upp to 115 celsius. no mather highway or city driving...

been changing/trying following things..

t-stat twice.. one Whaler and one OEM MB.
visco and fan wings... CHANGED
been mounting oil cooler...
redline waterwetter added to NEW coolant mixture.
rad cleaner mixture.

it seems to have circulation so ther aint problem with waterpump, what i know have no one changed waterpump because circulation probs.

my rad is from -95 a BN OEM MB, BUT it is hot lower down and higher upp cold, i think ive got prob. with my rad.
ive ordered one and i will me mounting it on thursday, i hope my overheat problems will dissappear than.

anyone having an engine room pic on a w126 with OM603.xx engine??

also intressted in other w126 pics, i can other pics on my to if anyone want.

Attached Thumbnails

 

another nice picture

Attached Thumbnails

 

Very nice car! I like the picture with your car in the snow. We don't get snow here in sunny Southern California!

There are a lot of diesel fanatics on this site, and the non-turbo diesel engine you installed is very well regarded.

Try reposting this in the diesel section. That is where the "diesel-heads" usually spend most of their time. TX Bill is the moderator and it is a very active forum on this site.

__________________
Paul S.

2001 E430, Bourdeaux Red, Oyster interior.
79,200 miles.

1973 280SE 4.5, 170,000 miles. 568 Signal Red, Black MB Tex. "The Red Baron".

thank U, it was converted 1992!!

my father has owned the car before me(-94-00), ive done a lot of changes since than.


its the only w126 with 6 cylinder diesel around here, it wasnt sold with 6cyl diesel here, only in USA it was.

there are many with 5 cylinder diesel around (OM617.xxx)

Here's a pic of the OM603 in my 87 300SDL (126).

Attached Thumbnails

 

__________________
Lance Allison
Lance@LanceAllison.com

Current:
11 MB S550 4Matic, 55k miles, Designo Black/Black
14 Ford F150 XLT Lariat Crew, 73k miles, 5.0
Coyote V8 4x4. Black/tan.
09 GMC Envoy Denali, 5.3 V8, 4x4 SWB. 38k miles,
Jewel Red/Med Gray.

Gone:
87 MB 300SDL, 320k miles, Astral Silver/Blue.
98 VW Jetta TDI, 488k miles, Classic Green/Gray.
85 Olds 98 Brougham FWD, 4.3 DIESEL V6, 80k
miles, 3x Gray.

MBCA Member, Chicago Region

under my bonnet

Attached Thumbnails

 

yel-low,

It sounds like you have air trapped in the system, which would explain the cooler top and hotter bottom of your radiator, and lack of cooling capacity.

I found the only way to reliably get the air out is to park the car on an incline, the steeper the better, with the radiator aimed uphill. Add water with the car running until the expansion tank/coolant reservoir is full and let it run, revving it now and then for a minute or so.

You may have a leak at the cap or the connections to the reservoir, or the reservoir itself, which not only allows the engine side of the fluid circuit to boil, it allows very hard to detect leakage in warm weather, as the water leaves as steam. A water leak is usually easier to detect, but a steam or water vapor leak is sometimes difficult.

Good luck, and that is one clean engine compartment! Jim

__________________
Own:
1986 Euro 190E 2.3-16 (291,000 miles),
1998 E300D TurboDiesel, 231,000 miles -purchased with 45,000,
1988 300E 5-speed 252,000 miles,
1983 240D 4-speed, purchased w/136,000, now with 222,000 miles.
2009 ML320CDI Bluetec, 89,000 miles

Owned:
1971 220D (250,000 miles plus, sold to father-in-law),
1975 240D (245,000 miles - died of body rot),
1991 350SD (176,560 miles, weakest Benz I have owned),
1999 C230 Sport (45,400 miles),
1982 240D (321,000 miles, put to sleep)

im 100% sure that i have no water trapp..

have been flushing my radiator with warm water and its cold anyway in the middle...



have purged it several times and no air coming, also have watr wetter in the system.



changing rad tomorrow and than ill write if it helped or not

NEW radiator and problem is GONE!!!


=)


it had corrosion inside the cells, WHY?

the old rad is in ALUMINIUM, the new is also in ALU.

why corrosion? green coloured...

20 years worth of use. It takes a very aggressive coolant change regime to prevent it. Maybe during some time in it's life the coolant did not get changed in a timely manner. It will cause it every time.

Way to go

__________________
Jim

The aluminun rads transfer heat better and are lighter, but corrode much more.

Use the official MB coolant (it's orange in the US, probably in Sweden, too) -- it has better corrosion protection than the blue-green or green stuff. The green stuff has phosphates in it, and they collect on the aluminum. Plugs the radiator.

Change it every two years and you should get at least 20 more years out of that car!

Peter

__________________
1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!

The RAD i replaced was ONLY 8 years!!!



im going to ask my dealer of MB in town what coolant im suppose to use!


i use water wetter now, i dont cause troubble?