I have seen reference made to flipping/sliding the valve cover over to get at the valves for adjustment, thus avoiding dealing with disassembly of at least some of the throttle linkage, vacuum lines, etc.

Does anyone have a bit more detail on what as a minimum needs to be removed/relocated to make this happen? Which way do you flip? I have an 85 300Turbo and this would definitely encourage me to finally do that long awaited valve adjustment that has been continuously deferred because of the necessity of dealing with all that linkage stuff that the Haynes manual says you have to remove.

Thanks

You figuring those people at Haynes are in a conspiracy to cause you to do unnecessary work ? In some areas the Haynes beats the FSM... I suggest you will be happier just following what they say to the letter... it really is not much of a problem since most of it just snaps apart..The real hassel is having enough hands to hold all the stuff when you are doing the valve job... I have at least two too few myself.... Greg

As mentioned, all the little ball and socket linkages just pop off real easy. Just label everything before you take it apart. Use a wrench on the bolt to the PS pump to turn over the engine. Never use the cam shaft to turn over the engine. The cool bent Hazet wrenches really make the valve adjustment a breeze but many guys use homemade bent ones. Regular combination wrenches, are almost impossible to use.

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Orland Park, IL
1985 300SD 215,000 miles

I really suggest you not use the ps nut to turn the engine... I have seen how incredibly tight they can get when you do that... Had to heat it with Oxy/acet and shoot with WD40 three times to get it where a big hammer would take it off..and this was off the car working on it... a real pain... use a 27 mm deep socket on the crank bolt like the manual says.... If you insist on using it... it will help to take out the glow plugs so you don't have so much force required to turn it over.... Greg

Thanks for the replies.
I guess taking shortcuts are not recommended for removal of the cover - no pain, no gain. I have this great fear of of breaking parts of the linkage or getting it out of alignment to the point where I have a problem. Still and all if anyone out there can give me any positive feedback on moving the cover without all of the disassembly I would appreciate it.
Thanks

When you pop the linkages apart, be certain to clean the balls and re-lube the sockets. FSM may suggest ATF, but I use white lithium grease per a conversation with a MB parts guy (Tom Hanson at Caliber Motors).

Be prepared to get physical with the linkages. The first time I worked on mine, they were really stuck -- I don't think they had been lubricated in a LOOOONG time. You don't want to bend the rods, but you do need to apply enough upward pressure so that the wire spring clip will relax around the ball and allow the two pieces to seperate.

My 300SD has an access panel inside the engine compartment on the passenger-side that has connections to the starter motor wiring. It is really easy to clip a switch in here and use the starter to "bump" the motor around to achieve the correct cam placement for valve adjustment. The "Remote starter switch" is available at many stores, including Sears and Pep Boys. I don't know if the 300D has this panel available or not.

My 1984 300D has a busbar mounted on the passenger side fenderwell, covered with a plastic lid. the trigger wire for the soleniod is the white one going down past the battery. Just clip a remote switch lead there and clip the other one to that fat bundle of wires in the next terminal over, and you're in business. FWIW the purple wire comes from the keyswitch.

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Nate Stanley
(Currently Benzless)
1985 F-250 6.9l 170K
2009 SCION XB 36.5K
2003 LS430 78K
2012 Kubota B 2320