Valve adjustment wrench - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Alan S · #1 08-09-2002, 03:18 PM

I plan on keeping my car for a long time. I want to perform a valve adjustment but not sure if I need those wrenches or not. Someone on ebay manufactures his own. Is it possible to do it with regular straight 14mm wrenches, or do I need to purchase the special set. Thanks

Ken300D · #2 08-09-2002, 04:01 PM

I did a valve adjustment for the first time recently using the curved wrenches.
Have not attempted it with straight wrenches, but the curved ones work very well.

My recommendation is to go with the people who are selling Hazet manufactured wrenches, not the homemade bent ones.
I just think they look nicer and are less likely to break.

Ken300D

leathermang · #3 08-09-2002, 05:40 PM

Check out these...

BAU 615-0001... VALVE ADJUSTING WRENCH SET - 14mm..."PAIR"...Diesel valve adjusting wrenches...Use with retaining nut holder #615-0004,615-0001 - PeachParts

all sorts of opinions....I am cheap or frugal , whichever, so I bent two sears open end wrenches and bought the lower spring holder ....

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/2159375-post244.html

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/180280-valve-wrench-info.html

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/197597-pictorial-make-valve-adjustment-wrenches.html

Sergey · #4 08-09-2002, 06:07 PM

I did it on my 240D W115 with two straight wrenches 14 mm. Not too convinient but doable..

Fisherman · #5 08-09-2002, 06:58 PM

Well I am cheap...

So I bought the cheapest (thin) wrenches I could find (I found that thinner is better on the bottom wrench) and then used a plumbing torch to heat them and bend them. Took about a half hour to do both wrenches and cost me maybe 6 dollars total. If I have a valve that is too tight to loosen with my cheap wrenches then I find a way to get in my good straight wrench to loosen the nut.

P.E.Haiges · #6 08-09-2002, 11:22 PM

I do my 116 engines with regular flat wrenches and have no trouble. I never needed the large wrench to keep the valve from turning. I've done this job about 5 times and I don't intend to buy the expensive wrench set even though it might make the job slightly easier.

P E H

dabenz · #7 08-10-2002, 09:14 AM

Leathermang's just frugal. His picture of the top wrenches ought to be a permanent post.

Cheap is making that bottom wrench, as long as you don't count your time and welding materials. It's needed for normal people to help unjam the adjusting nuts. Not needing it is a sign of expertise that comes with experience (P.E. Haiges).

Ken300D · #8 08-10-2002, 09:42 AM

What's the deal with that custom third (bottom) wrench anyway? You know, the one you put on the top of the valve spring to keep it and the valve from turning.

I haven't figured out how that causes a problem if the valve turns a bit. I can understand the need if the whole assembly is stuck together and you need to break it loose. But how does it hurt if the spring turns some?

Ken300D

leathermang · #9 08-10-2002, 10:17 AM

The adjustment of the distance from the cam lobe to the top of the nut (which determines your valve lash) is only accomplished when you screw the nut up and down RELATIVE to the valve. Thus, if the valve is turning with the nut on top you are not able to adjust that distance. When I first did my valve adjustment only three of the valves required the lower wrench. If the valve is stationary you do not need the lower wrench. The valve has one slot in it and the valvespring keeper has a tab which fits into it. Thus, if it is stuck then holding this is how you keep the valve from rotating with your top nut.....

leathermang · #10 08-10-2002, 10:35 AM

DaBenz, Don't think that I did not TRY to make that lower wrench before I went and bought one

I think that pure physics is the determining factor in needing the lower wrench.... if the top nut friction is more than the friction holding the valve stationary one is going to need to hold that springwasher..

PEH, If the valve turns with the nut then it is not a matter of " a little easier" ...and that proper lower wrench has a little tab on the handle which holds it up at the correct level... I don't have enough hands to hold each nut (two) , the feeler gage (one), and the lower wrench (when needed)(one) ..... that is four hands if the valve is trying to turn... I can manage three operations at once because the feeler gage can be set down and the locking nut dealt with with the same hand while keeping the position of the wrench with the other hand...

dabenz · #11 08-10-2002, 01:13 PM

The folks with a digital camera should take a picture of this:
Fist on bottom wrench in the "Fonzie" position, but with the pinkie hooked underneath to hold the wrench.
Top wrench hooked under thumb.
Middle wrench in other hand to loosen jamb nut.

Leathermang's top wrenches with the long handles work best with this technique.

To make the bottom wrench I cut the opening in the box wrench, rebent the angle, then welded the top plate after cutting the slot in it. Cut and fit, bend and fit, weld and fit. The box was too thick so I ground it thinner. THEN I figured out I needed a foot on it for leverage. Made and welded the foot. Rebent the angle. If time was money... NOW I see the HAZET wrench has a sliding foot. Where were you folks 20 years ago ??!!