Quick questions before I tackle changing oil in the MB for the first time... - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

190D22 · #1 08-22-2002, 08:41 PM

This will be the second oil change for the car since I've owned it. MB did the first for me because I had her in for lots of work. I bought the oil filter and 10W40. The filter came w/ the big rubber o-ring, and two aluminum washers. From what I am reading in my haynes manual the washers are for the oil return thing in the filter housing and the other is for the oil drain plug.

Is this all correct? And tips or warnings before I do this? Thanks in advance.

JimSmith · #2 08-22-2002, 09:36 PM

190D22,

The O-ring goes on the filter housing cap. The washers, and there should be one copper one, go on the drain plug (copper) and under the bolt head that holds the filter cover on. That one is the stainless steel looking one. There should be a second copper one for cars that have oil cooler drains. Not all cars come with these, and some cars have two nuts that hold the cover on, in which case you don't use the silver color washer either. My gas 190E has the single center bolt that holds the filter cover on, while my older Diesels have the two nuts that screw onto studs in ears on the housing. But I always get the washers for all iterations of the design and throw out the ones I don't need (actually I have a bag of them that is about 5 lbs now). NO washers go inside the housing with the filter. Good luck, Jim

84300DT · #3 08-22-2002, 09:46 PM

hey Jim can i send you my extra washers ??

looks like you have quite a collection already! fwiw i never put washers on my filter housing cause the nuts have a flat bottom side to them so i think it isn't necessary - maybe someone will tell me different?
Bob

JimSmith · #4 08-22-2002, 10:36 PM

Bob,

If you have a Diesel with the two nuts that hold the cover on you do not install washers under the nuts. When there is a center bolt, it penetrates the fluid boundary, and you need a washer as a seal. The two nuts deal on my Diesel W123 for example, is just a closure, no threaded fasteners penetrate the fluid boundary (they are outside the big O-ring seal) so there is nothing to seal. So, you are doing it correctly. Early W123 Diesels also had the center bolt design, which is why the silver colored washer is in the package. Hope this clears it up a little. Jim

Honus · #5 08-22-2002, 10:59 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by 190D22
I bought the oil filter and 10W40.

Is that the right oil for that car? The reason I ask is that most of the 10W40 that I have seen in the stores around here is not diesel rated. The only diesel rated oil available around here is 30W or 15W40.

psfred · #6 08-22-2002, 11:23 PM

Your oil must be at least CD rated. The gasoline ( SX) ratings aren't for diesel use, must have a CX rating of some sort or dont' use it. Of the oils I've seen in most autoparts stores, only the synthetics are diesel rated.

MB has, in the past, distinctly NOT recommended 10W-40 oils, except Mobil 1. Don't know why, don't care, only use Mobil 1 in all my cars.

Peter

Dana B. · #7 08-23-2002, 12:12 AM

I can think of several mineraql oils commonly found in auto parts stores that have diesel ratings: Cheveron Delo 400 15w-40 and Mobil Delvac 1300 come to mind.

Synthetics with a CH-4 or greater rating suitable for diesel use _ suspending soot _ are less common: Chevron Delo 5w-40; Mobil Delvac 1 5w-40 and Shell Rotella sythetic 5w40 (which some say is available at WalMart, though I haven't checked), each suitable for longer change intervals.

Good luck with your new MB sled.

Piotr · #8 08-23-2002, 12:27 AM

Nate-I ran into a problem with the oil-I can find only Rotella (I think it's a Shell oil) and a GSX are common and have the CH-4 rating. I believe the diff is that diesel oil has to hold the soot in suspension. On the flip side my mech uses Shells 10W40 in the summer, 15W50 in the fall/spring, and 5W30 in winter. Won't tell me if they are diesel rated , but the car was under his care since 1986, so I guess I can trust him

190D22 · #9 08-23-2002, 10:30 AM

Hmmm well I haven't gotten around to changing the oil yet. I will have to see if that's a CD or CX rating. It's valvoline 10W40. My owner's manual said 10W40 or 10W50 are best for all season oil. I believe that's what the 2 POs were using. I may give my MB shop a call and see what they say.

190D22 · #10 08-23-2002, 10:34 AM

Well I'm an idiot when it comes to oils... but the only things I can find on the bottle that have that kind of SX or CX stuff says "API Services SL/SJ And all preceding API Gasoline Categories" So I am guessing I got myself the wrong oil eh?

190D22 · #11 08-23-2002, 10:45 AM

Well guy up at crown MB said that my oil is actually a higher grade than what I need w/ the SL/SJ thing. He said that it's fine. You boys had me worried there! heh heh.

Thanks for the help!

surfblau · #12 08-23-2002, 12:40 PM

As for me, I actually trust (most of) the members at this board more than anyone that I have met at any dealership. Remember, it has been almost 15 years since any significant number of diesels were sold by a dealership in the US. Board members on the other hand have been living with these machines daily for many new years.

FROM http://www.csaa.com/global/articledetail/0,8055,1004010302%257C2024,00.html

API Service Classifications: Briefly, the API service classifications are a 2-letter rating, beginning with the letter "S" or the letter "C" and followed by a letter from "A" through "J." "S" stands for "service" and designates an oil primarily for gasoline engines. "C" stands for "commercial" and indicates an oil for diesel engines. Many oils meet the requirements of both series and have a dual service classification, such as SH/CD.

The service classification rating system began in the early 1970s. The earliest S-classification oils were SA, SB, SC, and SD. You can think of the successive second letters-A, B, C, D, and so on-as indicating increasingly higher quality. In fact, each successive service classification has been an improvement on previous classifications and exceeds the earlier performance requirements. Although some low-cost oils rated SA or SB can still be found in some stores, service classifications SA through SF are no longer recommended for use by most vehicle manufacturers. SG, SH, and SJ oils can be used in older engines and should be used in all late-model engines because they lubricate and protect better under all operating conditions. The SJ classification is recommended for 1996 and newer gasoline engines and can be used in any earlier engine.

The older API diesel service classifications, CA and CB, are obsolete, as are the older S-classification oils. The CC and CD classifications are still current, but most late-model diesel engines use the newer CF-4 or CG-4 classifications.

The API also classifies some oils as "energy conserving," which indicates that the oil reduces friction enough to improve fuel economy by at least 1.5 percent. If the oil reduces fuel consumption by 2.7 percent, it may be called "energy conserving II."

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from your previous quote
... but the only things I can find on the bottle that have that kind of SX or CX stuff says "API Services SL/SJ And all preceding API GASOLINE Categories" So I am guessing I got myself the wrong oil eh?

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you don't use gasoline in this car...

Wasuchi · #13 08-23-2002, 06:27 PM

Just use Delo, Rotella, or Delvac, Go for the 15w-40. You aren't going to find anything much cheaper or anything that is better unless you go to a synthetic. These are also easy to find just about anywhere.