Wheel bearing/axle post part 2

[The Warden]

Some of you may remember the post I made a couple weeks ago about hearing a roaring sound that sounds like a wheel bearing going out. I think I found what's causing it.

This is, unfortunately, a combination of me not knowing very much about an independent suspension/drivetrain system, coupled with a memory that just plain sucks. I think the left side axleshaft is to blame, or more specifically, my failure to address this earlier.

When I was first driving the car back from Texas back in July, I noticed a thumping sound that wound up going away whenever I pulled the axleshaft towards the wheel. In addition, the rubber boot on the wheel side was torn somewhat. The thumping disappeared, so I unfortunately forgot about this until I took a close look at the rear wheel assembly (I didn't actually remove the wheel, but could see it). The boot is now two separate pieces, and I'm still getting play in the axleshaft. My guess is that any grease that was in there has gone out of the remains of the boot.

So, keeping in mind that I don't know much about this sort of axle setup (I'm used to a solid full-floating axle like what I have on my truck), I'm guessing that, at the very minimum, the boot will need to be replaced along with repacking whatever was greased and is no longer. But, I'm guessing that the axleshaft itself will need to be replaced. And may the diesel gods hav mercy on my soul...

So, here's the big question(s). First, what chance is there that I won't be replacing the whole axleshaft? Second, if so, any idea on a good inexpensive supplier? Third, if I pull and replace the axleshaft (looks pretty straightforward going by the Haynes manual), what else will I need to do? Obviously I'll be changing the differential fluid, but are the wheel bearings integral to the axleshaft, or are they separate enough that pulling the axleshaft won't mess with the wheel bearings? Also, is there anything else that I need to be aware of?

I'm planning on driving home on the 4th, so this needs to be done by then. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!

Also, if this is something that I won't be able to do myself (I really hope not, but just in case), are there any recommendations for a shop in the southern California area that I could go to? I'm currently about 80 miles north of L.A. in the Antelope Valley, and I'm also on a very tight budget.

Again, thanks in advance!

[Palangi]

There were some threads a while back which seemed to indicate that replacing a halfshaft was not really too bad of a diy job. My differential went bad a while back, so I had the complete axle replaced (wrecking yard parts). I did not do that work myself, so can't speak firsthand for the level of difficulty. I made sure to keep the halfshafts off the old axle though.

FWIW, I noticed that J.C.Whitney catalog lists replaceable axle boots for the 115 models. They do not list them for the 123 chassis, howevr, I for some reason, I was thinking they are the same. Might be worth following up on if the axle joints are not already worn out from running dry.

I replaced the pasenger side half axle on my '83 300D with one from a pick-a-part type yard. The toughest part was getting the body on jackstands and taking the wheel off, (although not in that order). I used half of a circlip pliers to take out the retainer ring in the differential. Didn't even have to remove the brake assy. like the book says. Axle assy slid out right alongside of it. Everything just fell into place when installing the new one. Hope yours goes as easy as mine. Lee Derby

[engatwork]

Warden - this is a very easy diyer type of job. I would recommend replacing the complete 1/2 shafts with rebuilt ones and not just trying to install a new boot on it - especially since you already have a boot pretty much torn in 1/2.

[240 Ed]

If your boot has been torn in half as you state, then the CV joints have been exposed to lethal doses of grit already.

If you can find a PNP nearby, find a shaft which has the boot intact and grab that one. I even found a car which had two new ones on it, but I didn't take them, cuz I figured I would leave them for someone like you to find...

Anyway, all the old boots will be cracked, but are most of the time still intact.
Yeah, it's a PITA, but you can try.

Or you can go to a Midas shop or brake shop and ask for a price.

[The Warden]

Originally posted by 240 Ed
If your boot has been torn in half as you state, then the CV joints have been exposed to lethal doses of grit already.

If you can find a PNP nearby, find a shaft which has the boot intact and grab that one. I even found a car which had two new ones on it, but I didn't take them, cuz I figured I would leave them for someone like you to find...

First, what's a PNP? Second, are the CV joints integral to the axleshaft, or what? I was under the impression that they were one piece, and was part of why the axleshaft cost so much.

Apparently, there's a version with an 8mm bolt and one with a 12mm bolt. Where's that measurement taken from? Is it the bolt on the end that goes through the hub? I found a shop that has a rebuilt one for $65 and can get it in the next couple days, but I assume that I need to get the axle out to find out which size bolt I have.

Especially at that price, I'll just replace the whole axleshaft...although I'm sold on the necessity of that anyways.

Thanks in advance!

[engatwork]

I think he meant a Pull A Parts place when he said PNP.

The axle/CV joint on the rear independent suspension car is the same thing.

You will need to pull one of the rear tires, remove the bolt in there and measure it. Most of the ones I have seen were 8 mm.

Just go ahead and replace both of the rear 1/2 shafts. $65 sounds like a good price.

[The Warden]

I haven't pulled a wheel off yet, but I pulled the center cap off the left side rear wheel. Underneath, I saw a single bolthead, which I think is the bolt in question that holds the axleshaft to the wheel side (and, I presume, is the bolt that can either be 8mm or 12mm). The head takes a 13mm socket. I presume that means it's an 8mm bolt?

Also, any idea on a proper torque setting? I don't remember seeing one in the manual...

Lastly, if the bolt can be gotten to with the wheel in place, why is it necessary to pull the wheel? Does the axle hold some of the load? (it may seem like a dumb question, but the way my truck's axle is designed, the shaft bears no weight and can be removed with the wheel in place).

Thanks again I'll probably just do both axles to be safe, now that the idea's been mentioned...I hadn't thought of that before...

[engatwork]

I have always removed the rear wheels and brake calipers whenever I do this job. Removal of the calipers does require removal of the rear tires. You are correct on the bolt size. The book says for the M8 bolt the tightening torque is 30 Nm.

The procedure I would use is as follows:

a) Jack up/support rear of car.
b) Remove rear tires/wheels
c) Remove abovementioned fastener
d) Remove rear brake calipers
e) Drain differential
f) Raise differential enough to remove differential mount/support
g) Remove rear differential cover
h) Remove clips holding 1/2 shafts - I use the same puller used to pull the inst cluster out to do this
i) Raise differential as high as it will go. At this time you should now be able to push the other ends of the 1/2 shafts toward the differential until they drop out of the hubs. Try to keep the "weight" of the half shafts from being put into the differential seals.
j) Pull the outer ends of the 1/2 shafts toward the back of the car while working the shaft out of the differential.

The installation is pretty much the reverse of the above.

I put this together based on memory and it should be pretty close to being what you need to complete the job.

I was surprised at how easy this job is the first time I did it.
If you can't find the Redline just use the Mobil 1 gear lube.

[240 Ed]

Coupla things here that may help.

I can't see a need to remove the calipers.

You need to remove the back of the differential to access the clips which hold the axle on. These are a sort of circlip, and you can remove them with a pair of needle nose pliers. Or a hook-like device...

PNP means Pick N Pull. Sorry. This is probably a more localized yard, but the biggest in the country.

Perhaps there is no such type of yard in your area yet.

[The Warden]

I actually know what a Pick n' Pull is; just didn't know it by that acronym. I was figuring on pulling the diff cover; it's nice to know that you can use needle-nose pliers to pull the C-clips as I was thinking that I'd need to get a pair of snap-ring pliers...

Thanks!

[240 Ed]

No, the snap ring pliers won't work.

The clip is in the shape of a C, but there is a tab in the middle of the C. Sorta like -C . This tab has a hole drilled into it, so you can get a hook-tool into it.

Also, you might not even see this correctly at first, when you peer into the diff. The clip-tab may be oriented away from view. You just need to "swivel" it around...

You can do this!

[sublettm]

I always figured that this was a job for a mechanic. I currently have one car with a torn inner boot and another one with an inner boot that is starting to crack. My question is this, is the axle for the right and for the left the same? The reason I ask is I put a new axle on my 80 300D and now it is dead. It is on the drivers side, both of the axles that need to be replaced on my other cars are on the passenger side. I would like to take the axle off my 80 and put it on one of my other cars.

Mike

[engatwork]

Mike
On the cars you have listed I'm pretty certain both sides are the same. Not exactly sure if the 80 axles will fit on the 84/85 model though. You will need to check the p/n.

[Ken300D]

When I did this job I didn't remove the rear brake calipers. However, I think the reason this is a good thing has to do with the stress put on the brake hoses at the extreme limit of downward travel of the hub.

To get enough clearance to get the axle shaft out, you have to support the body of the car and let the wheel hub drop all the way. I also found it helpful to loosen the differential mounts and jack the differential up higher.

It's a little easier to see what you're doing with the wheel and tire off the car.

If you have not seen this message thread, there are a few more details on my experience with this job:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=22342

Ken300D