Bought my first diesel in June, an 83 300D turbo w/169000. Ugly interior but runs well. I want to adjust the valves before winter and need to know if the fancy Hazmet (Hazmat?) tools are required or can I do the job with a set or normal Craftsman's. I've done this job on my 58 220S gasser and on an even older 180 I had many years ago so I'm not to concerned about the basics. When tightening the lock nut should I really put some "tight" to it, i.e. lognut tight or valve cover tight or in the middle.

Thanks Much.

People say they can do this job with regular wrenches, but I would love to be around when they try. I spent the bucks and got the Hazet set and I can tell you it difficult enough even with the Hazet wrenches. I've already done the job 3 times, so I figure I already got my money's worth - how much shop time would I have to pay to do such a simple job?

As far as tightening them, I just give some good firm pushes with the wrenches. You wouldn't want to strip them because you would them have to replace the valve! I think valve cover-tight is good enough.

Greg
'84 300D, 165,800

Hi Greg,

And thanks. Seeing as this is my first diesel and it is going to have company soon I will invest in a set of the special wrenches. I've owned a few MB's throughout my life and actually own another, a 58 220S sedan w/only 67000 on the clock. I still don't buy the fine "German Engineering" but figure if I'm gonna drive an old car I'd much rather be driving a Mercedes than a clapped out Honda. I spent today spit shining my old Jap cruisers, a trio of 89 929's, and put them at the end of the driveway. Plans are to replace them with a creampuff diesel when I can find one. Still trying to decide about which year MB to go after. This 83 isn't too shabby mechanically but the body is sort of banged up and the interior is a mess. Although I plan to keep it and it will be well maintained, I don't think I want to go to the expense of attempting to "restore" it. Instead I'll break down and get a nice one in near cherry condition if finances permit. My wife even wants one after driving this old beast, so I'll probably be replacing my three Japs with three Germans. Just glad it's not 1942 :-)

Rmmagow,

I never had a problem adjusting the valves on my 300SDs with regular wrenches. Try it first with regular wrenches and see if it doesn't go OK. If not invest in the special wrenches.

P E H

I simply went and bought two 14mm wrenches at a pawn shop (at 50 cents each), then bent them appropriately with a blow torch. I then milled them a little on a bench grinder so they'd slide in among the valves even better. Best dollar I ever spent...

__________________
Matt
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1995 E300 Diesel (Die Blau Frau)

I'm not a mechanic by any means...however, using a Haynes manual and a couple of 14 mm wrenches (one being out of my motorcycle's tool bag) I did mine with no problem...I did not tighten down the nuts very tight...so I hope they hold...car has been running great since then...probally ok!

sean

Sean,

I suggest you go back and make the valve adjustment nuts as tight as you can. The only thing that holds them from turning loose is friction from being tightened securely. Hoping they hold just won't do.

I had one come lose one time and the valve, piston and rod came out thru the oil pan. I now have a 3 cylinder 220D.

I didn't do the valve adjust, it was done by some previous owner or his mechanic. I make sure I get them very tight after the above experience. If you hear a clattering in the engine, shut it off immediately. Its the valve coming loose asd hitting the piston.

P E H