$.75 Part has my car Parked! - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

#1 09-29-2002, 05:59 PM

The small,square plastic clip that holds the very end of the accelerator cable into the linkage broke last night.

I have searched extensively an cannot find it.And I cannot find the part on any parts web site.Am I looking at buying a whole new cable or do they sell just the square platic piece that clips it in?
The car is immobile with the accelerator cable disabled.
HeellllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPP!

Thanks Guys!! Joe............

Ken300D · #2 09-29-2002, 06:24 PM

Rats!

When I disassembled the throttle cable from the intake manifold recently, I just unbolted the two bolts into the manifold that hold the whole assembly on and just let it drop. Didn't try to unclip the cable itself. The plastic clips on the injector fuel supply tubes are also brittle and break easily.

In your position with this part I'd probably end up going to the dealer.

Better watch out for the injection pump linkage joints too. Those things that clip over the ball joints are plastic in your car, not metal like on the old diesels. They crack extremely easily, usually a hairline crack - better to lubricate them as best possible without actually trying to pop them off the ball joint.

Ken300D

leathermang · #3 09-29-2002, 07:05 PM

Can you post a picture of it ?

VeggiePup · #4 09-30-2002, 01:22 AM

Or it was 2 years ago, according to my copy of the EPC.
202 301 00 93. If what you're talking about is a Guide, to Wire Cable w/Roller Guide. Looks like one of those square plastic plugs used to mount license plates, but with a slot in it to allow the cable to slip in? All my diesels are much older, and don't use cables.

Dale

VeggiePup · #5 09-30-2002, 01:42 AM

Or it was 2 years ago, according to my copy of the EPC.
202 301 00 93. If what you're talking about is a Guide, to Wire Cable w/Roller Guide. Looks like one of those square plastic plugs used to mount license plates, but with a slot in it to allow the cable to slip in? All my diesels are much older, and don't use cables.

Dale

#6 09-30-2002, 02:34 AM

I think we have all had little inexpensive parts go out or break, which have caused problems.

#7 09-30-2002, 08:03 AM

There are 2 connections near the end of the cable.One is threaded and has an adjuster.That is where th cable comes out of its protective cover and the actual cable is exposed.The other is where it connects to the linkage that pivots all the other push rods and what-not.That is where it broke.Fast lane sells a "cable guide"? But what Dale is describing sounds like the deal.A square clip with a hole in it and a slot for the cable to pass through to enable clipping it on to the lever.
Na I don't have a dig. camera. I want one though.
For now...I took a hefty dimple washer,cut a slot in it to slip it over the cable.The placed it in front of the lever wher the clip would go.Then zipped-tied it in place so it won't slip back through the slot in the lever.Amazingly... the car takes off better! Guess I took out the cable stretch that I never realized was there,

.

Ken,my wife drove my daughter to school this morning.44 deg.out.
She said it started pretty rough.Hows yours?
Thanks Guys.
P.S. part # off the cable itself is 120 300 28 30. Searched to no avail.Guess I'll call fastlane.

mplafleur · #8 09-30-2002, 08:18 AM

I had one break on my 190E 2.6. I know exactly the part that you are talking about. It's a rectangular tan plastic piece with a slot for the cable to pass though. The far end is concave for the ball end of the cable to rest in. It just snaps into place.

I went to the dealer and my parts guy just gave me the part. He also knew exactly what I needed before I could finish describing it.

The Ann Arbor dealership is the BEST!

I drive 50 miles to the dealer in Ann Arbor and avoid the one 5 miles away in Birmingham like the plauge.

#9 09-30-2002, 08:25 AM

Yeah that certainly sound like it.But mine was black.

Ken300D.......if you look in the Haynes manual on page 4B-3 it shows a pretty-good picture of it.It's called a "Retaining Block".
But it doesn't appear to un-clip from the cable itself.
Think I'll call the local MB guy today.
Thanks guys.

#10 09-30-2002, 02:47 PM

Went down this morning to the local MB mechanic.Xaver's in Newburgh,NY. I showed him the part in the book.He says "yeah I got those." Cost me $.70 for a new one.Guess I shoulda got 2.
Took me ten minutes to change.Thanks for the help guys.

Joe........................................

Ken300D · #11 09-30-2002, 08:30 PM

Hi Joe:

Yes I see it in the manual. Must get pretty brittle with age and engine heat.

I'm not using the 87 300D at this time because I've been too lazy to clean out the crossover pipe and put it back on. Also I still have the idea of taking off the EGR valve to see how easily a thin aluminum plate will serve as a trustworthy blocking device - not to depend on the valve holding tight itself.

We have not been as cold as you yet - typically still in the 60s at night. Went out just a few minutes ago and did a test start for you.

The car hits instantly on all cylinders. Then you can tell as the glow plugs cool off from red hot the running roughens up a bit. Still spews out a good cloud of smoke - smells like unburned diesel. Then within a minute its warmed up enough to burn the fuel better and it smooths right out. Typically on a cold start I fast idle up to 1200 rpm or so (waiting 10 seconds after start at slow idle to let oil flow) for about 30 seconds and then take off slowly. Once going on the road there's no smoke.

So I can tell the glow plug replacement helps - don't care so much about the smoke at startup. Strange how it won't do it 8 or 10 hours after running, but overnight its a battlefield smoke screen!

Did you complete your glow plug replacement already?

Ken300D

Ridge · #12 10-02-2002, 12:06 AM

The linkage ball joints on the 123 Series diesels are all metal and are probably the same size as the newer plastic ones, so anyone looking to solve the problem permanently might just get the older ones from the junkyard.

If you insist on keeping the plastic ones here's a good tip. Since the plastic ones are almost certainly nylon plastic and the plasticizer (The chemical which makes a plastic flexible.) for nylon is water, you might just remove one of them at a time and place it in boiling water for a few minutes to replasticize the nylon. Five years later do it again.

Ben
www.reproduce100s.com

HGV · #13 10-02-2002, 12:28 AM

An easy fix is to open your glove box and call road side service. They keep them in stock and fix the car right on the spot for no charge. At least that is what happened to me when it happened about 4 years ago in the SF bay area.

Henry