Rebuilt front end - WOW - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

300sdToronto · #1 08-27-2007, 09:48 AM

What a difference. My car feels brand new!

A groaning noise on full steering lock at low speeds and clunks at high speeds, plus some steering play turned up some nasty problems underneath.

The support for one front suspension bushing had cracked completely - some rust and then it must have snapped right around. I don't know the proper name for this bushing - all I can say is that it fits onto the bottom of a cylindrical metal brace that sticks vertically down, inside of the front wheel. I think it might be called a subframe bushing?

Also replaced tie rod ends (no steering play any more) and pretty well every bushing in the front suspension as they were all original, cracked and dried up. Full alignment of course after work of this magnitude. It's a whole new car.....

I have to admit I had an indie do the work as the job was far beyond the range of my skills and equipment. But he took me under the car before, during and after the job to explain everything that was going on ... they were working on two other 126's at the same time, which was rather neat.

These cars handle great when the suspension is actually set up the way it is supposed to be

arcticathlon · #2 08-27-2007, 02:41 PM

may i ask how much you spent in parts and how much was labor. i need to do the same proceedure and want to know what i am looking at.

thanks

jshadows · #3 08-27-2007, 02:57 PM

Just did mine too. UCA bushings disintegrated upon removal, ball joint boots were long gone and tie rod boots had pretty much all split. I won't be able to fully enjoy a new car until I do the accumulators on the back..still has that bouncy not feel so good ride when the seatbelt catches me going over bumps. Otherwise though steering and independence of front suspension is awesome now.

I think I spent a total of $300 in parts, borrowed ball joint press from advance auto (same as autozone kit). Press worked ok with well fixed vice, harbor freight 3/4" socket set and making sure the joint started out going in straight. I did not do any of the LCA bushings since that requires a spring compressor. I also did not change the shocks as they were performing fine.

toomany MBZ · #4 08-27-2007, 03:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jshadows

..still has that bouncy not feel so good ride when the seatbelt catches me going over bumps.
I also did not change the shocks as they were performing fine.

Sounds like a shock problem to me.

jshadows · #5 08-27-2007, 05:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by toomany MBZ

Sounds like a shock problem to me.

SLS...consistent with what I've read on other threads that bad accumulators will cause car to ride like it's only on springs...unlikely the struts and at $300+ a piece I'm willing to chance replacing the accumulators first at about 1/3 the price.

toomany MBZ · #6 08-27-2007, 06:21 PM

My bad on the TD. Those struts I see are $$$. Good luck, keep us posted.

jshadows · #7 08-28-2007, 08:34 AM

Unfortunately I won't get to it until next year. Leaving on Thursday for Paris and probably won't even see it this side of Christmas....kinda disappointed, things on the car are really coming together now after a few months of neglect while reconstructing my SD.

will post back though when I do get to it

300sdToronto · #8 08-28-2007, 11:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by arcticathlon

may i ask how much you spent in parts and how much was labor. i need to do the same proceedure and want to know what i am looking at.

thanks

Well I also had the front and rear brake rotors replaced as the rears were badly rusted and I'd managed to warp a front one

So if I take that out of the equation, and the cost of the welding, then I think it ran about $500 in parts and about 5 hours labour, including a full laser alignment. We also replaced the steering shock at the same time as all the ball joint bushings, guide rods and tie rod ends. Needed to replace one tie rod completely as it was totally seized. If I had supplied the parts myself from the Canadian equivalent of Phil (who does not ship up here) I would have saved about 25% on parts compared to the garage's mark up.

I'd be prepared to pay in the range of 1 to 1.5 K if you take a car into a decent indie to have this sort of work done, especially if your suspension is reasonably original. Do this before you replace the shocks as my symptoms were also like that of worn out shocks.

tobybul · #9 08-28-2007, 12:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jshadows

SLS...consistent with what I've read on other threads that bad accumulators will cause car to ride like it's only on springs...unlikely the struts and at $300+ a piece I'm willing to chance replacing the accumulators first at about 1/3 the price.

I will need to the same thing with the 80TD....accumulators.

jshadows · #10 12-29-2007, 09:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by toomany MBZ

My bad on the TD. Those struts I see are $$$. Good luck, keep us posted.

OK. Finally got around to replacing the accumlators and seals on the SLS valve. One of the cells was full of fluid which confirms that it was no longer functioning at all.

The ride difference is astounding. I've been driving this car since I bought it on a bad rear suspension (New Orleans to NYC and back + numerous other trips). With the new parts it drives like a dream and had me with a kool-aid smile over every bump and crevice. Not perfect, but the front and rear cut through speedbumps and dips like nobody's business. Better than many modern cars IMO. I reckon a few bushing replacements in the rear would firm things up perfect but I'm following the 80/20 rule at the moment.

So, for those of you out there with TD's and bouncy or improperly functioning rear ends, replace those accumulators. About $200 in parts and tools required are relatively basic. Make sure you get a liter of MB hydraulic fluid for the losses during the repair job. It's relatively cheap anyway.