Need Answers for dead SD
 

I fianally got the 84 SD with the rod knock "ENGINE". I am the proud second owner. The title listed 8 miles on it. I also got a 2 inch thick folder of service done to it over all of these years. Have some questions though. 1st one how much do complete MB engines go for. And what do they include. Like turbo. The turbo seems to be working. The only thing that seemed bad is a spun bearing or two. Did not run it long though. Also I can't get the trunk open. It seems to act like the rod that would push the latch does not catch. When I get it home I will know more. Has anybody bought a jasper engine before. I just might build it myself though. I build 3 and 4 cylinder Detroit 2 cycles for the RR.
Can't be any more trouble than them. Thanks Alan

The PO of my SD put in a new complete engine. I heard it was in the area of $5000.00 . It is a complete package, though. Has alternator, turbo, power steering pump, belts, hoses, ect. Supposed to be pretty much a take-out, drop-in job. Might check on getting just a short block and have the head gone through if you want to save some $$. I priced a short block for my 220D (4cyl, non-turbo engine)about 8 years ago, and they were about $1500 or so at at the time if I remember right.

Alan, whatever you do make sure you clean or replace the oil cooler. When you have a major failure like this metal goes everywhere, into the IP, turbo, oil passages, oil filter base,etc. Some people do a great job of overhauling their engine and over look this or are unaware of it.


I would stay away from the Jasper rebuild, I've seen many on-highway Jasper diesels and aren't too impressed with them.

Good luck!!

So, what is a Jasper rebuild?

P E H

It is a big remanufacturing company that rebuilds engines.

The problem that I would see with their engines is that when they are putting an engine together they they have an inventory of injection pumps, turbos,etc. So even though it might look like the same engine you have, the components aren't an exact match for your application.

It also makes it hard to get the correct parts when you don't realy know what you have.

Check Performance Products catalog. They've got complete engine asenblies. Seem expensive but PP has a pretty good rep. Don't know who builds the engines for them though.

These engines aren't bad to rebuild yourself, will cost about $2000 for parts and machine work. Worst thing is new pistons (if you need them).

If the bores are still good, and the pistons are OK, the very worst would be new rods and a crank.

Used engines are about $2500 for low milage ones, although low milage 617s are getting scarce.

If you truely have rod knock and not a spun bearing, you will only need to grind the crank and get the appropriate rod bearings, the rest of it may be OK

However, my brother bought a 300D that aquired a knock when we put decent oil in it -- plugged oil passage to #2 main, spun the bearing, ruined the block, and busted the crank. We got a rebuildable short block for $500, I think, from European Connection in Falmouth, KY. Took a while to find that one, since it was the 75-76 (not interchangeable with later ones). Yours was VERY common, should be no problem to get a good one.

Stay away from Jasper rebuilds -- I've never seen a good one!

Peter

I searched for used at Potomac to many miles for the price, and only 123 engines. Don't know if they are a good match though. I fell I should rebuild the one that is in it. It was only ran for a mile with blown oilcooler line. The shop did a compresson check and it was 390-395 across all. I am going to price all of the parts next I guess. The cooler and lines where replaced by shop after failure. Still searching for ideas. Alan

Allan:

Rod and main bearings, check the crank for scores, regrind if necessary.

There amount of babbit on the MB bearings is amazing. You will probably have babbit stuck to the crank, but that's all, if the engine didn't lock up.

If it was still running and only knocks, pull it, flip it over, pull the crank, check it, and put new bearings in. Probably need to remove the rocker arms so that the valves won't hit, but you can remove the head too, if you want. No actually necessary.

Unless it also got seriously overheated (find out if you can), there will be no damage to anything else. Oil starvation will seize the camshaft, too, but not in a mile with no oil unless it was at 100 mph!

The 617 in the turbo W123 is the same engine.

Peter

Even if you have to resleeve it is not that big of a deal to do. Resleeve and new rings (hopefully the pistons are good) in addition to everything Peter mentioned and you have a brand new rebuilt engine.

Compression sounds REAL good but at least when you have it down take a real close look at the cylinders walls. Look real close at the cross hatching marks on the cylinder walls. If it looks like a "mirror" finish then it is getting tired.

Short of getting a rebuilt engine directly from MB (my first preference), I HIGHLY, HIGHLY recommend Metric Motors in Canoga Park, California. They do a very commendable job on their engines and I have installed a few units from them. Also, EIS in Portland, Oregon is very good. Both know what they're doing.

Try Adsit.

http://www.adsitco.com/