My 1985 Diesel Turbo model manual says to contact the dealer for specific engine oil and coolant to use (some type of Mercedes brand). Is this just a hoax to get people to buy Mercedes stuff? Most of my mechanics just recomend regular oil, such as castrol 20/50, and for coolant a 50/50 mix of water and any good coolant.

Any good Diesel rated oil like Delo, Rotella, Delvac, etc. is just fine. Probably in the 15W- 40 variety. Coolant, I'm not real sure about, I just used regular coolant in the 50/50 mix. I'm sure someone will let you know if it's anything different. And welcome to the forum.

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1985 300D Turbo ~225k
2000 F350 (Powerstroke) 4X4, SWB, CC, SRW, 6spd ~148k
1999 International 4900, DT466e (250hp/660 ft/lbs), Allison MD3060 ~73k

I agree with Wasuchi on the oil, any brand with has the API "C" classification (for Diesel engines) would work fine, IMO.
On the coolant, well, your not going to really "wreck" anything by using a namebrand coolant. The MB coolant isn't terribly expensive. It is different looking (kind of a yellowish color) and lots of people here swear by it. If there is a dealer convenient to you, I'd say get a price on it and compare. If there isn't one close to you, use any good name brand coolant.

Gilly

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Ouch!! I have been using Castrol 20/50 (top rating SL or SH, for the last 5 years or so). Is a C rating on an oil a higher rating or something?

Sorry, I am new to the Diesel world. Just bough one because I was fed up with CA smog laws!!!

Jan
Unless some oil expert would like to give their opinion, what I have heard is that the C classification isn't really 'better" than an S classification (gasoline engine) rating, just different. If you double-check the oil classification for the Castrol, you might find it also has a C classification, some have both S and C classifications.
I wouldn't lose any sleep over it, just try to find a C classification oil for the next change.

Gilly

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Any oil rated SF or higher, by specification, meets a mil-spec equivalent to CC/CD. This would have met the requirements for most light duty diesel engines at the time your car was built. In other words, you almost can't buy an oil unsuitable for light duty diesel use these days. That being said, oil technology has come a long ways since then, so there are much better diesel oils currently available. Just about any current brand of 15w40 would be a good choice for your car.

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Palangi

2004 C240 Wagon 203.261 Baby Benz
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I believe that C rated oils have higher capability for soot suspension than the S rated ones. that's what makes used diesel oil black. Diesel angines generate more soot than gas engines, so oil requirements are different. When I change oil, I use Rotella . When my MB certified mech does it he uses Shell rated for whatever season. He did not answer my question about if his oil is C rated. the nearby MB dealer told me I need "diesel" (C rated) oil.

I read on this forum that MB coolant is specifically formulated to provide lubrication for whater pump. I was using the standard "green" glycol, but just bought a gallon of "yellow" stuff. set me back about $8.

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1985 190D 2.2l Sold-to Brother-in-law
1996 Mustang 3.8l -"thinks it's a sports car"
1988 Grand Wagoneer - Sold (good home)
1995 Grand Cherokee Ltd -"What was I thinking??!!"

Thanks everyone. I will try to find the C rated oil, but if I can't find it, I will just use the usual Castrol that I have. As for coolant, I just changed that, so next time I may go with the yellow stuff. Just hope all this special stuff just isn't some type of MB hype monopoly kind of thing like Mr. Gates.

By the way, when I change my oil & filter, it turns dark within minutes. What causes that?


http://hometown.aol.com/ciao4u2/index.html

The oil collects and holds soot deposits in suspension which in turn make it black.
They all do it.

Those are some nice looking Pantera's .

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Jim

The dark oil, after just a few miles is completely normal. That would be the soot. That is why it is very important to have an oil that can suspend this. Even the newest diesels from GM call for 15W-40 oil. If there is Walmart near you, you can find both Chevron Delo 400 or Shell Rotella. At Walmarts here in NJ, Delo 400 cost $6.12 a gal. Remember you will need 2 gals for each oil change.
As for the coolant issue and where to buy MB coolant, I bought mine on line from an outfit called GAPA, www.gapa.com. It's alot cheaper than what a dealer wants. There has been talk in the past about the infamous green stuff possibly causing the plastic in the W123 and later cars' radiators, to become brittle. Since I was able to get the MB stuff for only a couple of bucks more than the green stuff, I bought it. I figure it's a cheap price for a peace of mind.

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Thanks everyone for your help. I am off to the store to get the Delo oil. Seems I have been putting in the wrong oil all along, but changing every 2,000 mi may have helped.

Thanks for the coment on my Panteras, however, the Mercedes Diesel is my "reliable" transportation.

The MB coolant is specially formulated to prevent electrolytic corrosion in aluminum/iron combination engines. Since there are plenty of aluminum parts even on the cast iron head engines, I'd use either the MB coolant or one of the long life, phosphate free orange coolants.

I've seen heads corroded so badly the head gasket blew from using green (probably Preston, the worst of the bunch) coolant -- the anticorrosives fail fast, allowing the conjuction of water, aluminum, and iron to go to work, dissolving the aluminum.

As for oil, please use C rated oil. I personally only use synthetics, but any CD or better rated oil will be fine. CH-4 rated is best, as it suspends the soot much better than the previous rated oils do.

If you've been changing every 2000 miles, you are fine anyway. I use extended (6000 miles) intervals on Mobil 1.

Peter

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1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!

Thanks again everyone. I got the Delo 15/40 (has a rating of CI-4). So now I am set in that department.

Now for the antifreez. Since I already just flushed and refilled with the green stuff, is there maybe an anticorrosive that I can add without having to flush again and do it correctly? The post above me indicates that I may run into corrosive problems since I didn't use the correct antifreez.

This site is so helpful. When I get all this resolved, it may be years until I am back to this site, as the 300 D is just so reliable. The thing sure is slow though.

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1985 300D (DOES 20...Maybe)
1972 Pantera (DOES 200...For sure)
1973 Pantera
1985 Maserati
http://hometown.aol.com/ciao4u2/index.html

Jan:

Just change to the MB coolant next time, you're OK for at least a year on the green stuff.

Next to a Maserati of ANY kind, that 300D non-turbo is going to make you feel like you are in a time warp......!

It will, however, go a bit further on the gallon of fuel.

Peter

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1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!

You can use those off the shelf coolants.
But you need to add 2 pints of Coolant Additive.

I use Fleet Additive.
And have used Motorcraft.

Both are recommended for Ford Diesel trucks, PowerStokes.

The Additive is needed since most collants lack enough of it.

There is testers out there (strip type) which can tell you if the collant has enough additive.

You need to change the coolant every year.

If you do not, you risk a chance of the metal literally being eaten away. On a diesel, you are more prone to this problem due to the combustion on the motor. It is almost like a sonic cleaner. Once part of the metal gets into the coolant, it will act like ball bearings hitting the walls and further causing more damage.

This is a very big problem on Ford Trucks.

I think now, they may have a coolant filter on the motors, but I have to check.

Thanks