Ball joint and tie rod boots! - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

rwthomas1 · #1 12-18-2002, 05:22 PM

Okay I got some ball joints and tie rods where the boots have seen better days. I knew they were shot but I just had the car aligned and the frontend checked and they are all still tight. I have searched and I can find the whole assemblys but not just the boots. I would like to split the joints clean 'em out with brakeclean and compressed air, pack grease and put new boots on. I see no reason to replace them if they are still tight and I don't mind spending an afternoon with a picklefork in my hands. What to do? Where can I get the boots? Help? Thanks, RT

samiam4 · #2 12-19-2002, 12:14 AM

rwthomas1,

Sounds like penny wise and pound foolish to me. Upper control arms with bushings are $35-40 each, so you can do the uppers and swaybar bushings for $100. It will be done for another 20 years. The lowers are a difficult job. You either have to remove the control arm and press them out or possibly have the specialty tool.
p/n lower control arm joint boot repair kit A116 586 04 33
upper A116 586 05 33 factory list is 9.25 & 7.00 respectively. Wholesale is 7.50 and 5.75.

Michael

tooter · #3 12-19-2002, 02:09 AM

Well, isn't that something ! On one of my old Saabs, i too had a good ball joint with a worn our boot situation, but in my case I removed an old, but good boot from a good Saab 96 joint and that was it. I may have done the same with the tie rod ends.
On quality automobiles and equipment, the rubber is one of the first things to go, and this takes many years (over ten ).
So maybe you can find a boot from an equipment dealer, or a marine place, you never know. This will not be easy, most bad joints will also have cracked open boots.

#4 12-19-2002, 06:59 AM

If the joints are tight, I don't see this as false economy AT ALL! The problem will be finding the boots, as I'm sure has already been identified as a problem.

You will only have to remove the nut, separate the joint, do whatever cleaning is necessary, lubricate, put the boot in place and reassemble, not a really big deal. It's much less work than pressing the joints out, and the cost will be close to nil.

Good luck,

samiam4 · #5 12-19-2002, 10:11 AM

I gave the part numbers for the boots from the dealer.
You could ask Fastlane or BB if they sell them.

Michael

P.E.Haiges · #6 12-19-2002, 10:20 AM

I can remember replacing a ball joint rubber boot about ten years ago and that ball joint is still good 100,000+ miles later. I got the rubber boot from my MB dealer.

The labor is the same or less than replacing the ball joint and the cost is minimal. A torch can be used to heat the taper joint for easy removal because it diesn't matter if you burn the boot.

P E H

P E H

rwthomas1 · #7 12-19-2002, 06:01 PM

A local import parts place that I frequent pulled new tierods and balljoints for me today. I measured the boots sizes and ordered the replacement boots from Energy Suspension. They are polyurethane and should last much longer than rubber. The parts shop is an Energy dealer so I ordered right there since they were nice enough to let me paw the nice new pieces. As I said, the joints are all still tight but the rubber is gone. The Energy units come (2) to a card and cost just under $4 per card. I ordered enough boots to do the entire front end. I can't see spending over $100 and maybe more to replace most of the front end bits if they aren't worn. Even if this just buys me 6months-1year that is enough as I am out of spending cash. Thanks for the replies, I will update and let you know how it turned out. RT

P.E.Haiges · #8 12-19-2002, 10:34 PM

RWThomas1,

You and I play in the same ball park: Don't fix it if it ain't broken and only replace what's necessary.

P E H

tooter · #9 12-20-2002, 02:04 PM

I should have thought of this sooner, I guess now it is too late ...
Why not ignore the boot cracks and install grease zerks. That may be easier, cheaper, and more effective !
BTW, Zerks may be a thing of the past, but as I recall, front ends using the fittings lasted a long time when properly lubricated.

gsxr · #10 12-20-2002, 02:25 PM

Here's the part numbers for the boot repair kits:

Lower ball joint: 116-589-04-33
Upper ball joint: 116-589-05-33
Tie rod & drag link ends: 000-330-04-85

This is for a 1984 300D, the kit includes new boot, spring retainer, and nut. I got the numbers from the EPC (dealer CD-ROM parts catalog, available on eBay cheap.) Cost will be $3-$10 each depending on where you buy (dealer or internet).

For the record, if your old boots are ruptured or torn, the joint should be replaced as dirt/water has entered and it won't be tight much longer, even if it is now. If your boots are OK and you just want to clean/lube and re-seal, that's fine. Tip: If you ever replace tie rods, it is CHEAPER to get the whole assembly (2 ends with adjusting sleeve) instead of 1 end!

HTH,

#11 12-20-2002, 05:22 PM

rw,

I applaud you wisdom and expediency!

Growing up in a household with both parents that grew up in the depression, I have seen more thrifty repairs than most people. I cannot remember even ones during my youth when my Dad hired anyone to do anything. We did it all ourselves, painting, plumbing, electric, heating, cooling, you name it.

I have been pretty much that way myself as an adult, except for some occasions when I was out of town on business and my wife would have to call for help. When you do these things yourself you save lots.

By the same token, repairing what needs repairing in lieu of replacing perfectly good parts is very wise economy.

In doing thrifty repairs, I am reminded of my favorite. In the seventies, my wife was driving a '72 or '73 MB 250. It had an electromechanical voltage regulator mounted on the fenderwell with a brush mounting in the alternator where we are now accoustomed to seeing our small solid state regulators. The brushes wore out and I went looking for parts. The electromechanical voltage regulator and brush holder had to be replaced as a unit at about $150. These were 1970's dollars, I made less of them, and they were worth more. My solution was taking off the brush mount, going to the auto store and asking to see some alternator brushes. I found some for a few bucks that were slightly larger. I filed them to size on some emery cloth and soldered the leads in place. She drove the car another 100,000 miles and the alternator was still working great.

Field Expediency is what we called this in the Army. As P.E. says, if it aint broke, don't fix it.

Have a great day,

rwthomas1 · #12 12-20-2002, 07:13 PM

Okay heres how it went!
The parts store ordered a few of each of the boots as I was unsure of exactly what would fit, etc. Energy makes 4sizes of tierod boots.
Energy Part #'s
9-13103
9-13101
9-13105
9-13119
Put a "G" after the part# so they send you black boots and not some neon rice-boy color....

The two largest sizes part#'s 9-13105G and 9-13119 fit 123chassis MB ball joints. The 9-13105's are really tight. I used one on the drivers side and have to work it around the bottom sealing lip of the balljoint as I tightened it down. The odd thing on the drivers side is that I tightened and tightened and the stud finally bottomed out but it seemed like it took a long time. Maybe the knuckle was bored a little deeper on that side than it should be.... Unfortunately my order was short the smallest size (9-13103) which likely would have been perfect for the tierods. Since I badly needed a boot on the outside driverside I used a 9-13101. They don't fit perfect but I packed it with grease and put it together. On the passenger side I used the biggest size, 9-13119. They slip right on but I don't think they seal as well at the bottom sealing lip of the balljoint. It sure went on a lot easier though. The Energy boots are okay. They are not as nice as the MB boots as they lack the retaining springs at the seal points so they simply won't seal as well. My feeling on this is that it is relative. I have some play in the driverside joint so I know that within a year the whole frontend will likely get redone. The Energy boots are very cheap, $3 for two and they are easy to install. Pack 'em with grease and likely you will get 20K-40K without a problem which should buy you the time to save up for the parts. The parts store has reordered the smallest size for me as I have some other tierods that need to be done. I expect a perfect fit.

I found a tool that separates MB upper/lower balljoints effortlessly. Go to Autozone, in their tool section, "OEM" brand-"Tie Rod End and Pitman Arm Puller for Compact Cars" part#25297, @$9. You pop the top balljoint and tierod and then lean the knuckle out to access the lower balljoint. Works really well. (Edit) The tool doesn't work real well on MB tierods, its a little too wide. I used a 3jaw puller on mine and it worked best.

I keep hearing how cheap the parts are to rebuild the frontend. To truly do it right it would seem you need: Balljoints (lower), upper control arms, trackrod bushings, lower control arm bushings, tierods, center link, steering damper, subframe mounts.... This totalled out at over $500. Then I have to rent a special spring compressor, balljoint press and get it aligned. I don't see this as "cheap" Likely I could fabricate the compressor and press but it still ain't cheap.

Well, hoped this helped someone, RT

dpetryk · #13 12-29-2002, 07:56 AM

How do I contact Energy Suspension? Phone numbers or web site would help.

rwthomas1 · #14 12-29-2002, 01:20 PM

www.suspension.com

RT

skalie · #15 12-30-2002, 11:27 AM

I have in my time repaired a rubber cover for a ball joint with a bicycle repair kit.

The rubber was not damaged due to wear, but sliced by a careless use of a tool.

I have to replace rubbers all the time to get through the yearly technical check, hate to think what it would have cost me to replace the joints.