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#1
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MY 300TDT HAS THE DROOPY REAR END.IT RIDES FINE AND PUMPS ITSELF UP AN INCH OR 2 AFTER STARTING BUT AFTER PARKED IT SAGS NOTICABLY IN BACK. IM PRETTY SURE IT HAS FAIRLY NEW SUB-FRAME MOUNTS AND I REPLACED A LEAKING STRUT ON RIGHT SIDE ; SO IM THINKING OF REPLACING THE REAR SPRINGS ? IS THIS THE CORRECT SOLUTION AND HAS IT HAPPENED TO OTHERS?
REGARDS; GEORGEY 82 300TDT 165K |
#2
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My '84 does the same thing only the shocks are shot also. No you don't need to replace the springs. There are pressure vessels on each side that can leak down. It all computes into CUBIC MONEY! I am in the works of eliminating the hydro suspension on my car and going to a standard suspension...just springs and shocks. Chris
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My Truck.. 2007 DODGE, 5.9 Cummins, 6spd stick, 4X4. My car..1977 240D, OTHER WHEELS...1955 VW Oval window bug, European Delivery (Holland) with a 1700cc, 2 barrel, Porsche drum brakes. 1939 WILLYS Pick-up. 1967 Triumph 200cc Tiger Cub. 1976 Honda 550F 4cyl Motor Cycle. |
#3
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FORGOT TO MENTION PRESSURE CHAMBERS ARE NEAR NEW.THE REAR DOES SEEM OVERLY COMPLICATED.BE INTERESTED TO HEAR HOW YOUR CONVERSION COMES OUT.
THANKS,GEORGEY |
#4
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If you are saying it sags after you turn off the engine I think that is normal.. unless you need new springs so the default height will be higher...
Most people don't know that manufacturers consider 50,000 miles as the length of life for springs... they should be replace or rearced to bring the suspension back to the height which will allow the proper setting of the wheel alignment... Of course, after me saying that... many will post saying they have 750,000 miles on their MB's and the springs have not sagged at all... ![]() |
#5
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I have 750,000 miles on my car and no sagging springs. (Sorry, I couldn't resist
![]() Another possibility is that the height adjustment valve needs rebuilding. If the rear sags immediately after you shut down the engine the valve is not holding pressure. My wagon sags a bit but it takes overnight to drop and it only drops about an inch. I read a tech piece on mbz.org under suspensions that described how to rebuild the valve (which is located just in front of the diff). I just tried to find the article and couldn't (maybe you will have more luck) but my recollection is that it was a fairly easy DIY job. The rebuild kit is supposedly available from the dealer. Since you've already replaced most of the rear leveling system it would be a waste to get rid of it now.
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LRG 1987 300D Turbo 175K 2006 Toyota Prius, efficent but no soul 1985 300 TDT(130K miles of trouble free motoring)now sold |
#6
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Irg, very funny !
![]() I also remember someone saying they kitted that valve... so keep searching because it is around somewhere.... |
#7
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I BELIEVE IVE BEEN TOLD THAT THE HYDRAULIC SYSTEM IS ONLY SUPPOSED TO KEEP REAR AT A SET HEIGHT WHEN UNDER CARGO LOAD AND THE SPRINGS ARE SUPPOSED TO MAINTAIN UNLOADED HEIGHT ON THERE OWN. IM STILL UNSURE IF THIS IS CORRECT THOUGH IT SOUNDS GOOD.
CONFUSED;GEORGEY |
#8
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This seems to be a common problem area for the wagons. I'm surprised that anyone out there on the forum hasn't thought of a way to replace the hydraulic parts to make it into a "normal" rear suspension.
Perhaps I'm niave & oversimplifying the issue? ![]() Aivars Ps It has been -15 C here during the day & the 240 has been starting great!! |
#9
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Rear Shocks
You might think about replacing the hydro rear shocks with standard shocks. I did this on a 81 300 TD wagon I had and it worked out great....
Good luck 84-190e 5-speed 87-560sel |
#10
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GHJ , I do believe your statement is correct...
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