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#1
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need help on subframe bushings 84 300D
greetings all!
i'm attempting to change the subframe bushings on my 84 300D. seems to be a fairly simple procedure; got richard easley's step by step description, but my first attempt had to be aborted. jacked up the rear end (both wheels off ground - this may be the problem, yes?) supported suspension front end with a bottle jack; removed three bolts from spider plate; relieved pressure on jack to allow susp. to drop, but it only dropped about 1/2 inch. prying didn't help without leaving pry bar jammed between the space and that wasn't wide enough to get my hand in there or manipulate my removal "tool". easley's article doesn't mention anything about raising the wheel with a jack, but i attempted that also and that seemed to just tighten everything up. where am i going wrong? also the bushing kit only contains the large rubber bushing and bolts, but not the rubber stopper on the floor. shouldn't that be replaced also? from what i could feel, that was mighty spongey. your revered guidance is greatfully accepted. best thing i ever did for this car was join this forum !!!
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rayroyw _______ '85 380SE (238,300) my "new" old car! '84 300D (303,000+) '72 250/8 (mercy heaven) |
#2
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The rear subframe bushings?
They come out the bottom, not the top, so you don't need to lower the subframe. Remove retainer plate, then pry old bushing out. Lubricate new bushing with dishwashing detergent, soapy water, or silicone spray, and shove it up until you can get the bolt started, then pull into place, remove bolt if you used a plate to pull the bushing up, and install the retainer plate. Check the differential mount for deterioration while you are in there, too -- it may be shot. Peter
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1972 220D ?? miles 1988 300E 200,012 1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles 1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000 1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs! |
#3
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where did you get the parts? The top rubber should have come with the kit. If you drop the diff. mount it will all drop to give you room. The diff. mount should be changed, and it is a bear.
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#4
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jerry b.
got the subframe kit from fastlane. new bolts for the spider plate and new detente fittings for both sides. no rubber stop. but i just ordered the kit without talking to phil (there you go!). also got the diff. mount, which BTW, easley's article recommended replacing at the same time, but says something about some clips that need to be replaced. didn't get those because i read it after the fact. do you know what clips he's talking about that apparently have to do with the bolts? are they destroyed when you unbolt the diff? thanks for the input guys.
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rayroyw _______ '85 380SE (238,300) my "new" old car! '84 300D (303,000+) '72 250/8 (mercy heaven) |
#5
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The clip replacement is nice, but not necessary at all, just reuse the old ones. They are the "nuts". Many times the techniques in the manual will call for replacement of a microencapsulated bolt or nut or new clip, and we just didn't get it on our parts list. That's reality. A tiny bit of Locktite here; a little tweak of a "U" clip there; and while not ideal, works out fine. Torque to spec. (high).
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The Golden Rule 1984 300SD (bought new, sold it in 1988, bought it back 13 yrs. later) |
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