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  #1  
Old 03-12-2003, 02:49 AM
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quit smoking

My dear old Pearl (74 240 D ) was smoking so bad that I had to retire her she put out a cloud of smoke at a stop light that engulfed the whole car. It was a wonder I was not drug off in chains.
There was a heavy fuel smell to the smoke and a lot of rattle on start up.I had tried several times to get at the bottom bolt on the IP but finaly gave up as have to keep my other daily drivers fit.
About ten days ago a mecanic friend stopped over I had just started Pearl to move her. We started talking about the smoking problem, and of course had to see what we could do.PEARL SMOKES no more! We losened the two bolts on the IP pump then soaked around the bottom bolt with pentrating oil. we then disconected the dilivery lines at the injectors I put upward pressure on the pump with a crow bar while friend Brian tapped the pump right by the top bolt with a heavy square rod and a hammer. We moved the pump about a quarter or three eights of an inch toward the engine. tightened the bolts put the lines back on bled them and she started right up no clatter no smoke, she runs like a dream.
I relize this is a pretty crude way to time the IP and I wouldnt do it on my SD but we got lucky.........
William Rogers.....

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  #2  
Old 03-12-2003, 10:47 AM
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Hehehe!! Backyard "manual" timing method works pretty well when you have to do it, eh? I would strongly suggest you check the condition of the timing chain. The cause of your retarded timing may be severe chain stretch. Fixing the smoking may make you forget to do so and lead to a big "bang" later on down the road. RT
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  #3  
Old 03-12-2003, 11:02 AM
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William

Thats exactly what I did a year ago with the same results, she even ran a little cooler. rwthomas1 has a good point and you do need to check your chain. Mine was less than 5 degrees out as I was warned also when I did that adjustment.
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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
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  #4  
Old 03-12-2003, 11:09 AM
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I've been wondering....

I too have to time the IP on my 75 240 and every time I look at the position of that bottom bolt I turn around and find something else to work on. I've got a big crow bar though, maybe I'll give it a try...
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  #5  
Old 03-12-2003, 11:15 AM
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I had some excellent results on my old 1978 300D from changing the timing chain. Before I had that annoying diesel miss at idle, and it was getting harder and harder to start.
After, the miss is only there a little when cold, and goes away when it warms up. Start up is much easier. Never have checked the IP timing on that beast, but I think the timing chain stretch was enough to have caused the problems.
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  #6  
Old 03-12-2003, 12:19 PM
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Fisherman

I think they make a special U bent 13 mm box wrench to reach under there. A friend loaned me one but I didn't need it on the W123 240. You may need to fire up the torch and do some bending. I bought a 13mm gear wrench as most of the bolts can be done easy with that, at least on the 123s. Getting that little bracket off the block in back is a bear. I got my daughter to get her little hands up there but that aint gona happen too often.
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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"
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  #7  
Old 03-12-2003, 05:41 PM
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Stevo, I hear ya!

That bracket is a b_tch on the 123. I took a highspeed cutter and removed the top of the bracket from the inside out about a third of the way is where I started, and then cut off the entire top of the bracket out to the tang on the outside. Now I can lower the IP into the car with the bracket hanging on the spring. Pull the bracket down under the IP. Fit the IP, then climb under and push the bracket up into place and bolt it to the engine.
Finally just tighten the bolt on the back of the IP. The first time I tried to do this it took me an hour or more to get that bolt into the back of the IP after putting it into place. Now I can leave the bolt in the back of the IP while fitting it into the car.

I figured the bracket only adds lateral support for the IP vibration so this should be fine.

Why go through all this? I hated the thought of pulling the oil filter housing and having all that mess to contend with... or is it just laziness...
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  #8  
Old 03-12-2003, 08:19 PM
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I had a long reply about ready to send off and the power goes out, it blowing like crazy up here, most likely a tree down but I,m back on line with my own power system. Anyway your answer to the bracket problem sounds easier than finding a "small handed' person especially they ever did it before. actually I can do the job real fast now. I am ashamed to admit it but when I did the head & T chain on my daughters 240 I had such a bad time trying to time it I wore out 3 gaskets fooling with it so much. I got it down now, of course by the time I need to do it again I will have forgotten. I have never had the pleasure of pulling an IP on a 617. Someone was saying you could do it w/o pulling the filter housing.
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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"
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  #9  
Old 03-12-2003, 10:17 PM
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The bolts on my Sd IP 617 are out in the open I find it a much eaiser engine to work on than the 240 as the SD has a hudge engine compartment.........
William Rogers......

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