I am suffering from a very bad shifting 83 240D manual transmission. Yesterday I drove the car on R , 3 and 4 only as 1 and 2 would jam a lot. I really have to whack and jiggle the shifter to make it work, sometimes it jams up.
I played with the Linkage adustment. Today I have 2, 3, 4. When i shift to "1" I get absolutely no acceleration--it feels like "N".
In the 300D 240D Haynes Manual there is a diagram of he shift linkages and a procedure for adjusting them, using a drill bit slipped through the shifter arms to line them up. It lists an "a"," b", and "c" length for the 1-2 arm, 3-4 arm and R arm.

Unfortunately the diagram makes no sense and does not resemble an 83 240D manual whatsoever.

Does anyone have a similar diagram and specs for an 83 240D?

83 240D Manual. Does anyone know the Shift Linkage adjustment specs?

carromeow,

I've installed several of these transmissions in just about every Mercedes 123 model and the shift adjustment has always been the same.

1. Disconnect all the linkage at the lever arms on the transmission.
2. Check all the bushings in both ends of each link to make certain that they don't need replacing. If bad replace.
3. Obtain the "new type" clips for the securing the links as, once installed they won't pop off like the original ones.
4. Put the pin (A 6mm drill works for me.) through the shift mechanism once you've shifted it into the neutral position.
5. Shift each of the gear levers on the transmission into neutral and then reconnect the linkage. Make certain that all the new retaining clips are secure. Toughest part of the whole job is getting the clips back on.

6. Remove aligning pin from the shift mechanism.

I've built linkage for 240D transmissions installed in 300DTs and installed using this method and all, and I mean all, shift great.

You should now be in correct adjustment

Good luck,
Ben

.

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What is the longeveity of these transmissions? Working underneath my car, all of the individual levers flip back and forth correctly.

Somewhere, something is binding!!!

Do these tranmissions ever die from abuse?

What are the symptoms of a dead transmission?

See my note in the other 240D manual transmission thread today.

I had some of the same symptoms you are describing.

Len

I'm new to this forum, so greetings everyone.

In the six years I've owned my '81 240D manual, I've fixed countless things on it. Occasionally I've been stumped, and information online has enabled me to go on successfully.

Well, I'm surely stumped now, and I need your help.

My shifter will only work changing 1st to 2nd and back. It won't go into reverse, and it won't slide over and do 3rd or 4th.

With the front up on jack stands in my garage, I discovered a bushing had vanished from the shifter end of the reverse rod. I replaced it. But that made no change whatsoever in my inability to get to reverse, 3rd or 4th.

So I followed Ridge's guidance:
1. Disconnect all the linkage at the lever arms on the transmission.
2. Check all the bushings in both ends of each link to make certain that they don't need replacing. If bad replace.
3. Obtain the "new type" clips for the securing the links as, once installed they won't pop off like the original ones.
4. Put the pin (A 6mm drill works for me.) through the shift mechanism once you've shifted it into the neutral position.
5. Shift each of the gear levers on the transmission into neutral and then reconnect the linkage. Make certain that all the new retaining clips are secure. Toughest part of the whole job is getting the clips back on.
6. Remove aligning pin from the shift mechanism.

But nothing changed! Argh!!!

So I disconnected all three rods at the transmission and reinserted the pin (in step 4 above). I figured with all three rods disconnected from the transmission, and with the pin inserted so that all three shift levers were aligned, I should be able to slide the shifter left and right in the neutral position. But I cannot. it doesn't budge left and right.

I have loosed the boot at the base and pulled it wrong-side out above the shifter knob to gain access to the top of the shifting mechanism. I double- and triple-checked to ensure no foreign objects had found their way down into a position that would prevent the shifter from moving left and right; but I find nothing at all.

I do note that the bar the shifter slides left and right on seems a bit loose on the driver's side where it goes into a larger black "housing" (the contents of which I know nothing about).

I also removed the retaining clip and lifted the shifter rod (with spring, etc.) up out of the housing it sets in, saw no problems, and put it back into place.

So I'm thinking the problem's with the shifter assembly somehow. But before I start taking that apart, being unsure it's the problem and, frankly, not knowing what I'm getting into, I'm asking for your help first.

Can anybody advise me how to proceed from here?

Thanks very much in advance!

Check trans oil level. Change oil. This can improve shifting.

Check if clutch is fully disengaging. Best way to do this is to put car in neutral, step on clutch, rev engine to 2000 rpm, put into reverse while holding the clutch down all the while. There should be NO "clunk" or "grind."

The shifting issue could be in your Shifter, there is some plastic parts that wear out. Read through this Thread.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/352230-1983-240d-manual-tranny-stiff-hard-shifting-sideways-2-3-a.html


Charlie

__________________
there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

Dear spdrun,

I'm sure your advice to check and change the transmission oil and to make sure the clutch is fully disengaging will prove useful later. However, respectfully, I'm pretty sure neither of these will affect the problem I have to fix first. Here's my thinking.

This issue happened abruptly. I drove home from work without issue, parked it in the garage as usual, and everything was working fine. I went out the next morning, started the car, tried shifting into reverse, and found everything I've already described existed. Clutch in or out, shift rods not connected to the transmission and engine running or not, with a drill bit locking all three levers in the neutral position, I cannot slide the shifter left or right in the neutral position at all.

If I then carefully remove the drill bit so as not to disturb the three levers, while the rods are disconnected from the transmission, I still cannot slide the shift lever in the neutral position. Nor if I lift the shift lever will it move to the left so shifting into reverse doesn't work, either. It's stuck in a position that allows shifting the 1st-2nd rod only.

I'm still thinking there's a cause I've not yet detected for which transmission oil and clutch functionality are not a factor.

Thanks very much for your taking the time to consider and reply!

Dear charmalu,

Thanks so very much for your pointers! The links you provided are really very helpful. I'm inclined to think you're spot on ... one or more components (probably plastic) went south on me. Given everything I've tried, and it being very loose on the driver's side, I think pulling the shifter apart is the next step. (Sigh.) I'll bet you're right. I'll post back here when I've made any progress. Thanks again!

TIL shift linkages are adjustable.

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1980 240D "Haley" - 266k mi | OM617.952 | 4-speed | Euro Propshaft | 2.88 Rear | Motor Out of Car
1994 E320 "Lauren" - 115k | As stock as they come
2010 Mazda Axela "Grace" - 32k | H&R Lowering Springs | K&N Air Filter

1981 RX7 - Sold and not really missed

Looking for a paint color suggestion for my 240D with Palimono MB-Tex interior!

Dear charmalu (Charlie),

In the thread you referred me to (http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/352230-1983-240d-manual-tranny-stiff-hard-shifting-sideways-2-3-a.html) you said: "Most likely it is a bushing/s. Remove the shifter plate and see if the end bushing is popped out. this is #23 in the exploded view."

Sure enough, the end bushing (#23 in the exploded view) is popped out. (I've not even found the remains of it, yet.) So with much thanks to you, I'm now planning to pull the shifter mechanism out, rebuild it with the necessary replacement parts I now know I need. I've ordered the parts, several "special order," and I'm hoping to have them all here at the house by next weekend. That gives me this week to pull the mechanism out and be ready for the new parts when they arrive.

If I hit a snag along the way, I'll ask yet again for some help here. I surely do appreciate the help!

Looks like I'll be doing the 50-mile round trip work commute this week in my '79 Ford F-150 which gets 10-12 mpg at best.

A little history. I bought the car about six years ago for $300.00 from a couple 60 miles away who'd given up on it when the clutch wore out. It had sat beside their horse barn for three years. With jumper cables and cranking for perhaps a full minute, I started it, and after a few minutes it was idling great. It had just enough clutch left to drive it onto my utility trailer. The odometer showed 225K, was broken, and I could tell from going through the stack of service records it had been broken for many years before they quit driving it. I've fixed the odometer three times, and the last fix is still holding and it's showing 243K. I estimate I've driven it 100K with a non-working odometer, and it was probably driven at least 25K-50K before I got it with the odometer broken. So my wild guess is that it has gone 350K-400K miles ... maybe more. I started by putting a new clutch in by myself. Shortly thereafter tires, belts, hoses, etc. Then over the years, window motors and otherwise very expensive parts from a nearby Pull-A-Part, more tires, brake pads, an alternator, tie rod ends, etc., etc. The worst jam was when the steering wheel locking pin stuck 100 miles from home. I had to haul it home, and fixing that was a real pain. :-)

Fixed! The parts came in yesterday (Saturday). With family stuff, yard mowing, etc. interrupting me, I finished the reassembly and then putting the car back together last night about 8:00. Then in a 15-minute test drive everything checked out fine. The old gal still gets about 28 mpg, so she'll get a 60 mile test drive daily this week. I doubt I could have figured this one out without all your help. Thank you!

Alan, happy to hear I was of good assistance to you and the new Shifter parts were the problem.


Charlie

__________________
there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

Hey folks,

I am a new member, but a long time lurker. I just acquired a 1983 240D that has had a turbo diesel from a 300D swapped in. When I test drove it, it shifted through the gears fine but had no reverse. The shifter would move to the reverse position, but there was no feedback that suggested it was actually in gear. We both thought it was a linkage problem. I got under the car and adjusted the linkage, but still no reverse engagement. Following advice gathered from this forum, I decided to try putting in new fluid. I was disappointed to find a crack in the rear of the transmission near where the rubber line come in just above the driveshaft.

What does everyone recommend? Is this possible to fix by just removing the cracked piece, which luckily is not the actual transmission case?

Best,
Yousef