Aux. radiator fan - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

rickg · #1 04-07-2003, 03:31 PM

My auxillery radiator fan puked a bearing awhile back. I just yanked it out for the winter since the only time it comes on is when the airconditioning is running. But it's time to do something about it now. It doesn't look very re-buildable the way it's put together, but thought I'd ask here before I buy a new one. Anyone ever fixed one of these?
Next question, are these the same in all the W126 cars, or are the diesels unique?

#2 04-07-2003, 03:49 PM

Rick, I think that they are all the same for all the W126 cars. I can see why you want to rebuild it, since they are expensive. I am sure you can rebuild it, or pick one up at the wrecking yard fairly cheap.

rickg · #3 04-07-2003, 03:59 PM

Yeh, Fastlane list them for $183.59, which I'll pay if I need to. I tore the old one apart thinking I'd just find a bearing for it. But it's not really made to do that. Plastic housing, ect. (But hey, I just happen to know a machinist that could do a bit of modifying if I get desperate

)
I'll try Aurora Auto Wreckers in N. Seattle and see what they have.
But a bearing would be so much cheaper!

SHARK1007 · #4 04-07-2003, 09:05 PM

By golly, I had the same problem, mine was growling and shreiking, but hadn't siezed.

I tore it all apart and cleaned the bearing with brake cleaner, then greased it and it sounds like new now. I thought it needed to be replaced like the mechanic said, but I thought "what the heck?"

Give it a try, what could it hurt?

rickg · #5 05-20-2003, 05:57 PM

Update:
Finally decided to try fixing the old one first. Found that the main ball bearing was toast. Had to grind away the little spot welds that hold on the bearing cover/retainer, then the sucker poped right out. Got a new bearing at a local supplier for a wopping $8. Now I'll take it up to my brothers and have him re-do the spot welds.
Just saved myself $170!!

leathermang · #6 05-20-2003, 06:51 PM

Now , THAT is the spirit !

Another option , and maybe even a performance upgrade might be these.... and still save $100

http://www.ackits.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=Electric

sixto · #7 05-20-2003, 07:54 PM

I don't know about the same for all 126s. My SD and SDL have one fan (each), my SE has two fans.

Is a motor different if it's to run at two speeds? I know the SDL fan has an all out mode and a mode with a resistor in series. I'm not sure if the SD fan also runs in two modes.

Sixto
91 300SE
87 300SDL
83 300SD

The Warden · #8 05-20-2003, 08:11 PM

Without actually going ut and looking at the fan

what's the stock size? And, will a bigger one (if so, how big) fit in place?

I figure, the bigger the better...

leathermang · #9 05-20-2003, 08:22 PM

Why don't you go out and measure it for us ?

Bigger is better.

I am assuming that everyone has changed their ENGINE FAN to the later , more bladed type.. which MB says will retrofit....

The Warden · #10 05-20-2003, 08:48 PM

Well, given that I couldn't find a tape measure and had to use a yardstick, this may not be the most accurate measure in the world

but it looks like the fan housing is roughly 12" in diameter, with little room around it (with those two metal brackets in; I do'nt know if they could be removed, but if they could, you could probably go a bit bigger), although a slightly larget fan may be able to be installed if it were physically lower. In addition, the condenser looks to be about 22" wide and 16 1/2" tall, with both the in and the out fittings on the starboard side.

leathermang · #11 05-20-2003, 10:13 PM

My first thought was that it could take a larger fan if those two braces were fabricated differently... but if you look at the bottom part ... it is pretty close to that metal shelf.... so I don't know....

The Warden · #12 05-21-2003, 02:43 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by leathermang
My first thought was that it could take a larger fan if those two braces were fabricated differently... but if you look at the bottom part ... it is pretty close to that metal shelf.... so I don't know....

Are you referring to the part that's in line with the bumper? I'm not 100% sure I'm remembering this right, but that piece only goes so far in, and I think the whole fan assembly could actually fit in between that and the a/c condenser. If so, and if the fan could draw air from under that part, a bigger fan could still work...I'm not sure, though; it's too late at night for me to go out there right now

wayne2970 · #13 05-21-2003, 01:58 PM

I bought 2 for my 300D
118.00 ea

www.***************

rickg · #14 06-06-2003, 12:41 PM

In case anyone wants to attempt fixing their own, here's what I did.(wish I'd taken pix!)
I'm not sure if all fans are exactly like mine. But here it is....
I took the fan assembly completely off the car. Next snap off the front plastic grate. (On mine it covers about 75% of the front of the fan)
Then take the nut off holding the plastic fan on the motor shaft. That'll expose the screws and nuts holding the motor to the bracket. These also hold the front part of the motor housing to it's main body. Once that's loose, you can pull the motor apart. It'll feel like its being held in by springs or something, but it's just the force of the magnets. Pull that apart, and you can see the brushes and rear bushing. On mine they looked good. Check how the front bearing feels. Mine would barely turn, and sounded like it was full of rocks. If that's bad, you need to take off the snap ring that is in front of the bearing. Then the armature shaft should slip out of the bearing with a bit of careful persuasion with a mallet. All you'll have left is the front cover off the motor. The bearing is behind the little cover that's spot welded on. I used a small grinder and carefully ground away the spot welds until I could pry off the cover without bending anything. There's the bearing. I went to a local commercial supply house and told them I wanted a "series 6001" ball bearing. Anyone that knows anything about ball bearings will know what that is. They come in three styles, "open", "shielded", or "sealed". The factory one is "open", you can see the balls and the cage that holds them in place. I'm guessing they used that style for lower turning friction, or just because they're cheaper. Bad thing is they don't keep the lubricant in, and the water and dirt out. So I got a sealed bearing. Cost $8.
Then you work backwards. Put the bearing in place and have someone that's good with a TIG welder re-tack the cover in place without building up gobs of heat. An alternative was to drill holes and pop-rivit the cover back on, but I never checked to make sure they would clear the armature on the inside. Then put the armature back in the bearing, put the snap ring back on, ect ect.
She works sweet now!