Although I have no expereince, it would seem that the newer materials of today might be an alternative to the grey poop.

CR LAURENCE might be a good site to do some research
http://www.crlaurence.com/default.asp

Removing it again in the future needs to be considered.

Interested in the outcome as I need to do all the fixed widows on our wagon.

3M has a full line of stuff...

http://multimedia.mmm.com/mws/mediawebserver.dyn?555555YWg9c5iSp5BSp55529I_LooooN-#xml=http://www3.3m.com/search/media?request=findPdfInfo&query=caulk&k2docKey=http%3A%2F%2Fmultimedia.mmm.com%2Fmws%2Fmediawebserve r.dyn%3F555555YWg9c5iSp5BSp55529I_LooooN-%40usenglish.dmr

this is 22 pages of PDF File.... takes a little time to load, but full of interesting information...

Page 6 has a tube of Non Hardening caulk if that is what is desired... 08509 Part number.

But they have all manner of length of set up time...

There was no sealant used on the W116 at the factory, the MB sealant is newer than than. It is mentioned in the W124 manual for the glass in the wagon door, the others are all glued in.

I have the same thing on th rear window on the W108, the rubber isn't even really visible.

Peter

Success!!
 

The rear window has been installed! It took two tries to get it in but its done. The first attempt was made solo and installed dry-no lube. I almost got the window in but then the cord pulled out of the channel in the seal with only about two feet to go so I had to remove it and start again. The second attempt I had two buddies there to help and I used a water/dishwashing detergent solution lightly sprayed on the rubber seal and the metal lip to allow it to slip in better. It is much easier with help and the lube. I started at the top and slowly worked around until just the bottom and rear corners were left. Then with one person on each side putting pressure on the rubber/trim area following the cord as I pulled it the glass slipped into place. On the PITA scale of 1-to-10 I give this job a 9. Its sort of a be-atch and you really need at least one other person to get it done. The new seal is extremely tight-fitting to both the body and the glass. I am going to wait a week or two before I caulk it to allow the seal/glass to settle into position through the normal flexing of the body while driving. I am glad I tackled this task on my own. While it wasn't the easiest I know that the rust is repaired correctly and I didn't have to pay someone else to do it. If you can adjust valves and have some patience and a few friends it is a challenging but worthwhile repair. RT

Excellent!!

Another DIY success story. I have yet to see a report of any careful enthusiast break window glass (watch ME do it next time). Just goes to show what happens when you are motivated by profit and have to make a buck. No one would pay a pro more than $100-$150 to do this job, and a pro can't spend the time at that price to do it right. That includes cleaning the channel and fixing rust and guaranteeing that the price includes an unbroken window.

BTW, I used silicone lube on my gasket which worked better than the soap I had used on my previous (also successful- 2 Triumph windshields) attempts. It doesn't dry as you are working. Next time I attempt it I think I will look around for a special glass tool (sort of like a putty knife but made out of plastic )that helps you stretch the seal around the metal lip of the frame.

rwthomas1- Did your trim cooperate and lie flat in its groove? I agree on the "9" degree of difficulty. Would you do it again?

Rick S

rs899,
No my trim was uncooperative and required all the squeeze pressure my forearms could muster to get it to "seat" in the groove in the rubber seal. The lower corners were the most difficult and still don't fit completely flush. IMHO they are as close as they are going to get and maybe in time the whole deal will settle some as the body flexes, sun heats things up, etc. For a plastic tool that doesn't mar the finish or hurt the seal try a toothbrush handle! I save old toothbrushes for cleaning stuff and the handles are great for sliding under the rubber lip of the seal and popping it out where you want it. I actually ground down another toothbrush handle to a "knife blade" to scrape out the old sealing compound without hurting the paint. Worked great! I didn't want to use silicone as I was worried that it wouldn't allow the sealant to adhere well when I get to that part. The soap/water worked fine and didn't dry as fast as you would think. I only used a small squirt of soap in a old Armor All spray bottle full of water to apply it. Would I do it again? Absolutely!! Once I figured out how to do it, top first, and had 2 buddies to help it took less than 10 minutes to install the glass. I'm going for a ride in the rain today so I will see if it leaks or not. Putting my $$$ where my mouth is on this one..... RT

Getting that trim to lie flat is a pain. Getting it in around the corners with the windshield out is a pain, too.

We tapped it down with a plastic mallet, but it really just settled in on its own after a few days.

Peter

Update
 

I drove the car in a downpour for about an hour when I first finished the seal install last week. It leaked. I was hoping that the rubber seal would have been enough on its own to seal but it wasn't. I parked the car in the sun with the windows, trunk open to dry it all out real well most of last week. I used the MB window sealant today to hopefully cure the issue for good. The water appeared to be leaking in mainly on the glass/rubber side of the seal so I filled that area really well, especially the lower-side and bottom of the window as this is where the water will pool. The MB sealant is very sticky so be careful if you choose to use it. The tube fits a standard caulk gun and the tip is flattened in such a way that it slides under the rubber seal easily. I also chose to seal between the rubber/steel side of the seal. The worst part of doing this is cleaning up excess sealant that squeezes out. I found the best way was to let the sealant set for a few minutes and then wipe parallel to the seal seam while lifting and turning the paper towel to pick up the excess. Hope this explains better and helps someone out. RT

This has certainly helped me understand this better. I just got my OEM seal and sealant, and I plan to do this soon, hopefully before Thanksgiving. Thanks, RT

i doubt
 

that mb planned for the drains to be active after the car was completely assembled. there is nothing good that can come from draining water into the trunk. the drain holes are handy during the mfgring process to drian out any excess paint that might otherwise pool there and cause a prob. or other stuff. so i would fill them on purpose when reinstalling (if i were to do it myself, which i wouldnt).

i have a good relationship with a local glass company both for auto and building work, so i trust them to do it right and if they ask, i sign their waver. i estimate i have had them change at least 12 windshields over the years and never a problem.

there are things that can cause an old piece of glass to break that they have no control over so, they cant afford to quote you a price of say $90 and work with old glass and guarantee it.

tom w

Maybe the holes are there for condensation? Either let water out, or let air through so that it doesn't form to begin with?

I'm sure they didn't plan to have water drain through like the sunroof.

I think I would rather have the holes draining water into the trunk than have it rot the channel. In fact, I may drill a few extra on my next one. I have about 4 more to do (W123 and W116) and spare glass for everything.