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#1
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What's the normal temp for the 603 engine when in traffic? Is usually hit 110 if it's bumper to bumper. I don't think this is normal. If I rev teh engine a little, th temp goes down to about 100. Any parts I have to change? Hoe do I know if the VISCO CLUTCH is still working, can this be adjusted or replaced? I also heard somone say that there is a THERMO SWITCH which controls the AUX fan so It can turn high speed earlier? Thanks! Francis |
#2
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110 sounds a little on the high side. You have many things to consider with this problem, such as water pump, radiator, t-stat, aux fan, etc...Can you hear the fan engaging at all? If not it could be locked up. Check it for free movement (obviously with the engine off). The visco clutch always seems to have some play, but it could be a possibility. As a first measure, I would change the thermostat, flush the cooling system with a 10% citric acid and water solution (citric acid powder can be bought from any MB dealer) and replace the coolant with a fresh mix of 50/50 MB anticorrosion coolant and water. You might also add a bottle of Red Line Water Wetter to the fresh mix. Not saying this is the cure but hopefully it will be (or at least help lower that temp some). To be honest, I really haven't had too much experience with the 603 motors overheating, so perhaps someone else might want to chime in on this one. Good luck! ------------------ Rgds, Aaron Greenberg MB technician Precision Motorcars, Cincinnati, Ohio '67 250SE Cabriolet '77 450SL '80 300SD '85 380SE '89 420SEL '93 300E 2.8 '72 Alfa Romeo 2000GTV '73 Triumph TR6 '74 Jensen Interceptor Mk.III '81 DeLorean DMC12 |
#3
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He thanks! Here's what I have done a few months back. Replaced the Radiator (B-New tropical version). Aux Fan seems to be spinning. I have 100% water in my system.
Any other coolant you recommend? It's hard to get MB stuff here in the Philippines. What about after market coolants? What does citric acid do? Where else do you think I can get this? I'll try what you recommend and will let you know if it improves. Oh! one more thing, how can I test if the visco clutch is still working? Is this adjustable? Francis |
#4
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100% water!?
You really ought to have antifreeze/antiboil fluid in there...even if it's not MB. The antifreeze/boil protects against corrosion and also helps to lubricate the waterpump. I don't think that you want to replace one of those. Buy a gallon of that and follow directions and get back to us, and tell us if it made any difference. Hope this helps -Larry ------------------ 03/83 300D 07/73 280 |
#5
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In all of my non-MB vehicles I use Havoline 5 year/150,000 mile coolant. It's made by Texaco and seems to work very well. Orange in color. I always recommend 50/50 mix coolant and water. This stuff can be bought at any auto parts store and is about $6.50 a gallon. ------------------ Rgds, Aaron Greenberg MB technician Precision Motorcars, Cincinnati, Ohio '67 250SE Cabriolet '77 450SL '80 300SD '85 380SE '89 420SEL '93 300E 2.8 '72 Alfa Romeo 2000GTV '73 Triumph TR6 '74 Jensen Interceptor Mk.III '81 DeLorean DMC12 |
#6
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How about the temperature gauge? Is it reading correctly? These gauges may drift over time.
Before I do anything I would check the calibration of the temp gauge. Also buy antifreeze and mix with purified water. Any body's antifreeze will work. MB does not make it's own. It labels them as MB. They all are Ethylene Glycol plus corrosion inhibitors. Buy the cheapest. Reza |
#7
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The orange color coolent, as I was told, cannot mix with the green color coolent. Is this true?
I read an article regarding the 50/50 mix of coolent. It suggested using tap water to mix with coolent. The reason is that the pure, deionized water is looking for ions, and it will take them out of the aluminum in your radiator. I want to do this experiment but never get around to do it - find two strips of aluminum, put one in distilled water and the other in chlorine free tap water. Observe the corrosion process to see if the article is correct. David |
#8
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David,
Aluminum oxidizes in air instantly. The moment aluminum sees air it is oxidized. This thin surface oxide protects the rest of the material. Cupper is the same way. When it is oxidized, no further oxidation can occur. Iron however oxidizes until it is gone! Rusted away! The reason to use deionised water is not to introduce Ca++ and Mg++ ions into the coolant. In high temperature they precipitate out and form scale and eventually plug the radiator tubes. Reza |
#9
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Tropical thermostat
I keep hearing about people installing these Tropical thermostats, however i cannot find where to buy them. Mercedes claims they do not exist. The closest i came was finding a german only 617 part number for 617 engines, which i am not sure of 603 compatibility. Can anyone chime in with a part # or where to order a lower temp thermostat?
__________________
1993 2.6 (040) SportLinE 5-speed - Armed to the teeth w. roof rack/2x bike carriers/8x ski carriers/MB towing bumper 1993 2.6 (040) - deceased/reincarnated as a trailer. 1987 16v (702) - Now parting out(9/22/10)!!! - Email me your requests for 16v parts- Engine and full body kit avail!! 1987 300SDL (122)- For sale! |
#10
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If you are going to keep your car for a while, use the Mercedes Benz or Zerex G5 coolants. Do not use the Texaco or green color coolants. Their chemistry is not good for the Mercedes Engine. Use a ratio of 50/50. Distilled water is the usually recommended.
Good luck, Lee |
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