Can anyone give me an idea of how to change the front pads on
an 85 300D? Are new sensors required in addition to the pads? And, is there a procedure you can point me to so that I can get the job done.

Thanks a lot!

John

Not all of this applies specifically to a pad change on your car, but it sure is a great DIY pictorial and will tell you all you need . http://www.pindelski.com/cars/W126/W126_brake_job/W126_brake_job.html This guy's site is a font of information.

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The Golden Rule

1984 300SD (bought new, sold it in 1988, bought it back 13 yrs. later)

It's pretty easy.
1. Loosen the lug nuts
2. Jack up the car and support it on jack stands. Block rear wheels.
3. Remove the lug nuts and the wheels.
4. Unscrew the cap on the brake fluid resivour and cover it with plastic cling wrap, replace the cap.
5. With needle nose pliers, remove the cotter pins on the caliper studs. (the studs look like nails)
6. Using a long thin punch, tap the caliper studs out. Remove the anti-rattle clip.
7. Take a pair of channel locks, and squeeze the tab on each end of the pad to the small indentation on the caliper. This presses the piston back into the caliper so you can now just pull the pad out.
8. Insert the new pad before the piston moves back.
9. Repeat for other caliper.
10. Replace the one stud, then the rattle clip under it. Press the other end of the clip down and slide/tap the other stud into place.
11. Replace the cotter pins.
12. Remove the cling wrap, replace the cap and pump the brakes several times.

Pat yourself on the back, you just saved yourself $75.00

Note, don't forget to use pad grease on the back of the pads. To bed them in, drive to about 40 mph and gently apply the brakes until you slow down to 20. Do that 4-5 times you should be set.

You might want to pick up a copy of the Haynes repair manual. It is pretty good and will pay for itself 5 times on this job alone.

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Mr. BILL

91 300E 120K
90 300SE 275K (sold)
92 BMW 525iM 120K
90 BMW 525iA 175K
85 300D 175K (sold)
84 300SD 245K (sold)

as you will prbably destroy them during removal and they are cheap $1.50 a piece. You will need four of them.

thebern

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1982 240D 313,000 (4 speed)
1984 300CD 172,483
1985 German Shepherd Dog -Lacey- R.I.P.11/04/05

Hood Stars, Wrist Crowns and Obsession Dobs

In case you have the older, single piston calipers, I copied this from another thread:

===========

That being said, I should add that brake pad replacement is the easiest and fastest DIY job. However, the instructions in Shop Forum's DIY section to not apply to my car. I have the Girling 2-bolt calipers that flip up to expose the pads, so the process is a lot easier:

Remove brake fluid reservoir cap, stuff a rag at in the top, remove wheel, remove lower caliper bolt, loosen the top bolt, flip up the caliper, remove the used pads, insert the new pads, push back the piston within the caliper (use a large C-Clamp or similar), flip the caliper back down, replace the lower bolt, tighten the top bolt, replace the brake fluid reservoir cap, pump brake pedal until firm. That's it. Takes all of 10 minutes per wheel.

The only problem I had was with stuck lug bolts on one wheel -- all 5 of them would not budge with the stock lug wrench, even after drenching it with WD40 and Liquid Wrench. Once again, Home Depot plumbing dept. to the rescue I bought a
30 inch length of 3/4 inch diameter iron/steel pipe, placed it over the end of the wrench handle for added leverage, and the stuck bolts gave up with very little resistance.

====================

(http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=64605)

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2008 E350 4matic / Black/Anthracite

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Gone but not Forgotten:
2001 E430 4matic, 206,xxx miles, Black/Charcoal
1995 E320, 252,xxx miles, Black/Grey
1989 260E, 223,00 miles, Black/Black

I've searched, and checked out the link that had the 63 pictures (and bookmarked it).

My question: How to best force the caliper back to get the new pads far enough apart to put on the new rotor? I saw one post where someone had sanded them down, but I want to avoid that.

I did manage to get to the point of just needing to put the pads back into the caliper, then bolt them back on.

Also, how hard to rebuild a caliper? or better to buy ones already rebuilt?



BTW, I couldn't get the rotor off the bearing/hub assembly, and had the minivan in to the suspension/brake shop. The remounted them for $30, which I thought was cheap, since the alternative was to not replace the rotors, which I'd already bought. Maybe it seemed cheap, since the rest of the bill was $275....

Thanks ..pics coming soon!

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83 SD 143 K miles
93 Grand Caravan 130K miles
92 Buick Regal (winter car)