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87 300D rear subframe mounts
I'm looking at replacing a thrust link, the diff mounts, and rear subframe mounts on my 300D. I know the diff mounts are bad -- the diff sits crooked, on mount is really gone (probably due to the vac leak that made the tranny shift so hard) and I think the subframe mounts are collapsed.
I jacked it up in the back and put jack stands under the jacking points the other night to take a look-see for bad links -- I have a sidways lurch on accleration, feels like it is on the passenger side -- and found a bad thrust link bushing (bottom link going forward). I also noticed the diff mount (diff sits slightly down on the left side!) and also noticed that there is a significant gap between the subframe mounts and the body when the subframe is "hanging" -- I assume this means they are shot. Any advice on all this stuff? I suppose I could simply remove the entire subframe if I need to, or is it faster to just replace the bushings in situ? I can fab up any tools I need. Thanks guys! Peter
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1972 220D ?? miles 1988 300E 200,012 1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles 1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000 1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs! |
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There are FOUR differential mounts if you want to replace them all. Two in the back and two in the front. One is on "top" of the subframe and you might never see it if y'aint looking. Below is a mirror image of the one on top.
The subframe does stick down from the frame floor. The rear mounts are collapse internally and when the 4" washer touches the mount or gets close its time for another mount (those washers are almost like "drip edges"and are supposed to stick down. I am not familiar with a way to test the fronts. The front mounts are now hydrualic and originally were solid. The MB sliding fluid is recommended for installation of all mounts. The known alternative is spray the new mounts with as much silicon as they will hold. Without lubrication the front mounts may not seat properly (my experience). The subframe does NOT need to be removed. Do one side at a time (drivers, passenger). Remove the drip tube out of the subframe, the ABS sensor out of the differential when working on the pass. side. Lower the exhaust when working on the drivers side. When buying the new links be sure to purchase new bolts kits and sleeves if you are replacing the original parts. Bolt kits & sleeves were changed and the old ones are NOT compatable. Also be sure to have a 12 mm XZN (triple square) driver for the new bolt kits (& an 18 mm wrench!) HTH,
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Brian Toscano |
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