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#61
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I picked up an ALDA off an SDL at the JY that still has the black plastic on top unlike the one on the car. I unscrewed the boost port and could see the inside is full of black grime. The 4 philips head screws won't budge no matter what I do. Is there a trick to taking it apart to clean it?
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CENSORED due to not family friendly words |
#62
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#63
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My Alda on my 87 300d 603 is leaking boost pressure out ... Does anyone have a source to reseal them or does anyone have a good Alda they want to sell
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1987 300D 180k 1985 300SD 330k Helga 1992 300D Lola 269k- Sold 1986 325 coupe Bessie >300k Original engine(ODO Broke) sold 2006 2500HD Druamax Linda- Tows boat and looks pretty in garage thats about it |
#64
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FWIW you can use an ALDA from a 617. Just swap the signal line fitting.
Sixto 87 300D |
#65
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#66
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Just wanted to say now in to my 3rd 603 I found this post and my 87 sdl has come alive. It runs as good as my SD350 did.
I blocked the EGR, turn the ALDA completely CCW -.75 turns, and added a boost solenoid from old Buick GN and set it to 13 PSI. Boost was 9 psi. Its a completely different animal. thanks |
#67
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My 617 doesnt have an alda any more. I do have a boost gauge and know how to use it!
This thread has been around for what 9 years!
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85 Merc 300D - Unwinding 31 years of wear 86 VW TD Mahindra Diesel Iseki Diesel In 2007 I didn't own a diesel. |
#68
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Hi, I have tried to adjust my ALDA on my Mercedes 124/300tdt, but there is no difference. Can the ALDA unit be destroyed??
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#69
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easiest way to tell is to follow and carefully inspect all the vacuum line connected to and routing off the ALDA , look past the "Y" to the little selenoid on the drivers inner fender, from there it should go the the intake. make sure its not clogged at the intake (very common), carefully remove the metal nipple from intake and clean it, if all looks good, then next step is to route around the OVP, basically take it out of the equation, if that changes something then you found your problem. while your inspecting, replace any vacuum line that looks worn or cracked, you might not see a leak till boost pressure builds, it also helps a little when having power issues to invest in a harbor freight boost gauge (there cheap). because if your doing 50 mph and floor it, your Alda doesn't come into play much at that point, but you can see if your turbo is working correctly. Good Luck.
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Live simply so others can simply live 07 E350 sport Wife's Daily 01 E320 sport My Daily 00 C230 Kompressor Our back up (new Arrival) 87 300D Turbo my Daily for 8 yrs. Selling to neighbor 82 GMC Jimmy (K5) 6.2 Diesel (my Wheeler) 73 Roadrunner 340ci My very first car, still own it Last edited by davidlee; 02-10-2013 at 04:25 AM. |
#70
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You can also go for a test drive with the ALDA removed and see if there is any change in power. If not, either the injection pump has problems, or you have some other issue (i.e., restricted fuel supply, lack of boost pressure, etc). |
#71
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Totally removed mine today with some very good help from a few members on here to walk me thru. Even tho all the info was here I needed a little hand holding. Wow could not believe the difference. Night and day..Now to leave off? or not to leave off?
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Current stable...... 17' Rogue SV 70k 11’ Saab 9-5 NG 94k 10’ e550 4matic 185k sold 02' e320 210k 00' e430 167k 01' e320 171k (regret sale) 91' 300d 2.5t 300k (sold to ecoofidaho) 79' 240d 177k (old yellow my avatar) 87' 300d 169k (junk but fast) 85' 300tdt 261k (RBM parts delivery) 85' 300dt 68k (one owner cream puff) 82' 240d 250k 84' 300dt 198k (sold to diesel don) 91' 190e 2.3 61k 88' 260e 140k |
#72
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I had the ALDA off for a few months now and I would never go back.
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CENSORED due to not family friendly words |
#73
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Ok. i removed the cover, and loosened the locknut, and it backed the setscrew out, and i couldnt get it to screw in without bending my flimsy flathead. So i removed it all together and now can easily set it wherever i want. Also got the proper sized washers too, so my question is, if i add shims, how should i adjust the setscrew? All the way off? It seems like adding shims should be like screwing the setscrew down? Not up? (thats just how it seems, with the way it works in my head?!)
Obviously i'll just put the stock shims back in, and keep adjusting. Just was hoping to add shim and be done. Kinda becoming PITA
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Lotus 7 replica-20valve 4AGE 06' 500R Ninja Naked/Café/Custom 86' 300 SDL (Donor) 98' Discovery 50th anniversary (Recipient of transplant) |
#74
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Adding shims is like backing out the set screw - it reduces the ALDA plunger preload on the fuel inhibitor thingy in the IP. Add shims or back out the set screw. No need to do both.
Sixto 87 300D |
#75
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ok. im an idiot. i see now the CENTER moves up and down, and obviously up more fuel, down, less. so to achieve that you shim the entire valve up, or screw the screw up. ok. i understand that now. but all the way up, and no change whatsoever. Alda removed entirely, more smoke, maybe more power? But why wouldnt the screw backed off do the same,? Is the valve bad?
Also of note, the idle adjustment line off the alda has vacuum, but i cant blow through the alda that direction?(towards idle adjust valve line) but i CAN blow through the port into the Alda valve. is that normal?
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Lotus 7 replica-20valve 4AGE 06' 500R Ninja Naked/Café/Custom 86' 300 SDL (Donor) 98' Discovery 50th anniversary (Recipient of transplant) |
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