Hey all,
1982 240d, a/ auto trans (its gonna be a slow one =) The trans barely thunks (and does not stay i gear) when shifting into reverse and does not thunk or catch at all in any other gear (I can feel detents in the shifter and the park position works okay (holds the car)... have not checked the B2 thingie yet...

I'm thinking I need a new transmission, so the question is: how easy is it to do this yourself ? I have floor jacks (2) and jackstands...(and an engine lift if I need it...) any other special tools or precautions necessary ? I've swapped VW std shift trans before if that helps...

Thanks -John

__________________
2009 Kia Sedona
2009 Honda Odyssey EX-L
12006 Jetta Pumpe Duse
(insert Mercedes here)

Husband, Father, sometimes friend =)

I have swapped out the auto transmission on my 81 300SD. Like most projects on the MB there are lots of bolts and connectons that are difficult to assess at best. Aside from that it is a straighforward job. Not at all unlike any other transmission swap.
I am guessing, but I would have to think the 240D would have better clearance and would not be that hard to get out of there.
As always get a good manual, the Haynes Mercedes Diesel shop manual is adequate. A transmission floor jack may be worth the cost of a rental. That transmission is bulky and heavy. Any help is worth the cost.
You are going to just love getting to the flex plate bolts to loosen the torque converter. I got a mirror to find them. Then they came out ok.

sounds good so far =)

I have the haynes and the MB cd on my computer, so no lack of documentation. I'm not sure about univ-jointed sockets though =)

I could swear that a while back I was reading a thread about some kinda tab that had to be lined up when installing transmissions...and this tab was real fragile and if you break it the trans never works blah blah.... I wasnt sure if that was here or on which model (maybe 606 motored diesels ???)

-John

__________________
2009 Kia Sedona
2009 Honda Odyssey EX-L
12006 Jetta Pumpe Duse
(insert Mercedes here)

Husband, Father, sometimes friend =)

I sure don't remember anything about a tab lining up. The upper bolts between the engine block and the tranny bell are very hard to reach, and the flex plate bolts are difficult to get to, but still it is not impossible, just plan on more time than it would take with most other makes.
I would drain all the trans fluid before taking the old one out. Most have a drain in the pan and a drain plug in the torque convertor. I did pull a trans out of an 81 300D that had no plug in the pan. Then you have to loosen the pan bolts and let it drain.

I have not change a MB transmission, but have change plenty of Fords and Chevy's, but you need a transmission jack or you will be under there all day getting it aligned..rent one..

__________________
2000 Ford 7.3 Powerstroke 4x4
2006 Mazda Tribute
1983 Black 300 D (donated to charity)
1993 Teal 300 D (160K) Sold
"I love the smell of burnt diesel fuel in the morning, it smells like ....VICTORY"

Semper Fidelis
USMC 1973-1976

I did a '80 300SD and I thought it was easy. But I did my Chevy 4WD truck previously and that was a ***** to do. The MB was much easier.

I have a pit in my garage so that made it easier. I just put a plank under car, jacked the car up and slid the trans under the car on the plank. Didn't need a trans jack.

Then I lifted up the trans (92 pounds) and my wife placed wood blocks under the pan until the trans lined up. I wired the torque converter to the transmission so it would not slip out of place. When the trans was almost in place, I clipped the wires and pulled them out and slid the trans home.

It has been working OK for 5 years now.

P E H

for an auto a jack is helpful, if you're average size the manual tranny is an easy bench press.

I can get an MB tranny on and off with just a floor jack. My problem is that I can't get the car high enough to roll out the tranny with just jackstands. I slide the tranny off the floor jack onto a metal pan and slide the pan out from under the car.

In the SD I got to the top transmission bolts from the top. Sit in the engine bay and go at it with a box wrench. Takes a while but what's your hurry? The torque spec is low enough that you can get it tight enough with a box wrench. A torque wrench isn't accurate through a bunch of extensions and u-joints anyway.

Don't forget to prop the rear end of the engine before the transmission comes off. I find the scissors jack of a Japanese car useful for holding up the engine and adjusting the angle to meet the approaching transmission.

Sixto
95 S420
91 300SE
87 300SDL
83 300SD

thanks for all the responses...I'm getting kinda excited about this (still not wure when it'll happen =)

I'm now thinking of disconnecting everything and pulling the engine and trans out as a unit- then swapping transmissions...this sounds like it'll be easier (I also cannot see how my jack stands are gonna get the car high enough to get the trans out from underneath it...it'd be close.
This is a 240, so there should at least be lots of room to get the motor out, and its an auto trans that needs swapped.

Thanks guys
-John

__________________
2009 Kia Sedona
2009 Honda Odyssey EX-L
12006 Jetta Pumpe Duse
(insert Mercedes here)

Husband, Father, sometimes friend =)

i am nearing the end of clutch life on my 240d. find this very interesting. and helpful as i plan to do replace the components myself.

I used some of the bigger jack stands. They can get the car up plenty high enough. Two in front and two in the rear. Then there is enough room to slide the transmission out of there.
I have been told that it is more work to pull an engine alone, rather than pulling an engine/ trans at one time.
After doing both on the MB deisel I don't think that applies to the transmission. In other words, it will likely be a lot more work to get the engine and trans out vs. just the trans. That is my estimation and I had the misfortune of having to pull the engine out of this one twice, second time I did pull the trans at the same time.

I don't recommend taking the engine out when you only need to change the trans. It's a lot less work to just remove the trans. You may need some extra long extentions for your ratchet used with a universal joint.

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1972 450SL
1982 300D Turbo

Okay, tangent time. If John decides to pull the engine and transmission as a unit, anything to consider doing while everything is accessible? New oil pan gasket? Hard to imagine anything is inaccessible in a 240D. Larry?

Sixto
95 S420
91 300SE
87 300SDL
83 300SD

Angel,

Swap the auto tranny for a manual one and you'll absolutely love the result. Do a search here, as there are several posts here by me and others on just what's needed.

Good luck,

Ben

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www.reproduce100s.com

Personally, from now on (on the 300D or SD) I will pull the engine and tranny at the same time. To me it is alot easier. Also, if you have all of this out go ahead and replace the front/rear engine seal and maybe the oil filter housing to block gasket. Maybe even the IP to head gasket. Now would also be a good time to check out the oil pump chain and tensioner.

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Jim