I had a day off, so I took the opportunity to get a little one-on-one time with my car. I just changed the two fuel filters, and it looked like the canister one hadn’t been changed in a real, long time. I changed the oil filter, and I put new O-rings on the filter stem. I am waiting for an air filter. Next project: front break inspection.

Hi, BenzGirl !
While your wheels are off and you are checking the pad thickness, you can bleed the brake fluid if that hasn't been done lately. If not done regularly this can lead to premature wear in the calipers when corrosion forms on the pistons due to water that finally condenses in the fluid where it contacts the air.
I once bled a brake system in a '76 Mercedes that I honestly believe was completely original, or close to it. It was blackish at first, due to the rubber seals in the calipers dissolving over time, then the fluid became greenish like ExtraVirgin Olive oil.
I use a Mity Vac to suck the oil out through the caliper bleed screws and catch the old fluid in a small container for inspection.
If it comes out clear you don't need to flush the whole system.
Its a one man, er uhm, girl, job that way. First empty and refill the reservoir, some need to be removed off the master cylinder to get to the front section. Then start with the wheel most distant from the reservoir, usually the right rear wheel cylinder and keep replentishing the fluid in the reservoir.
Dieseldiehard
1971 220 (gas) 4-spd manual 102600
1979 300TD w/ ’85 turbo engine 288,090
1983 300D 234,200
1985 300TD 202,820

That's good advice to flush the brake system with fresh DOT4 fluid. If you dont let the reservoir run dry, should be no problem with air getting into the system..... just put the drain hose in jar half filled with brake fluid before you pump the pedal. Then just unload the old fluid if it looks dirty or not.

Something else that your 16 yr old Benz might enjoy is rubbing down window seals and door weather strips with silicone based rubber lubricant.

Glad you changed the fuel filters...Especially if you had a way old one on there, you will like the performance and mpg a lot better now.

__________________
Nick
*****
2002 Sprinter 2500 140" High Roof :

I second that, 240Demon. I suggest one add Biostat (RedLine stuff that may be obsolete now - there are other algae treatments) if the car sat for long periods of time in its previous owners life.
My '79 had some algae problems, I still think its lurking in the tank when the fuel gets low it kinda chugs a bit.
RE: 240D conversion. I have a friend that owns a 240 that was upgraded to the 5-cyl engine. Its about an 83 model. 4-speed stick and is more reliable than any of my turbodiesels. No climate control system to breakdown.
I have him beat with my 220 however, 4 speed stick, no power steering, and no vacuum locking system from the factory. It does have power brakes though, and it will beat a diesel in acceleration but not in economy. Love that lil bugger!
Dieseldiehard
1971 220 (gas) 4-spd manual 104041
1979 300TD w/ ’85 turbo engine 288975
1983 300D 237300
1985 300TD 205437

240Demon,

I'll make you a bet there will be no increase in MPG with new filters. What is your rationale for making that statement?

Probably no improvement in performance either unless one of the old filters was at the point of where it wouldn't pass the fuel fast enough.

Dude...I don't know what your rationale is for second-guessing my statement. All of what I say is based on experience. I just (2 weeks ago) replaced the filters on my 240D and the performance increased dramatically! And that was recommended to me by my friend who has been a Mercedes Dealer Tech for 20 years, which is probably more than you can say. As far as mileage goes, I have observed better fuel economy since the change, so that is my rationale...ok bud?!?!

__________________
Nick
*****
2002 Sprinter 2500 140" High Roof :

240Demon,

How long before and after you changed the fuel filters did you check the mileage? I would say you would have to it do for a period of a year before and a year after to get equal conditions and any meaningful results.

I think you have what I call the "sugar pill syndrom" where if you do something to your car that you think will get you better mileage, miraculously you will.

Fuel filters are good up until the point that will not pass enough fuel to give the engine full power. In fact they filter out smaller particles better as the passages thru the filter medium start to get filled with dirt particles up until the point where the passages are to small to pass the fuel molecules.

The IP passes any excess fuel back to the fuel tank thru the overpressure valve thus keeping the pressure in the IP constant. As long as the filters pass enough fuel to keep the IP fuel pressure constant, they can have no effect on mileage or power.

BUD

P. E., thanks for your explanation. I now have a dumb question for you. On my car, I always feel like I am doing her a favor by changing out the pre-filter and fuel filter at each service interval. My mechanic just does it. How long do you think I should wait? I am careful to use fuel from the same place every fill-up (when I am in town) and I use Power Service at irregular intervals. I will move this to another post, if you prefer.

Narwhal,

I only change my fuel filter, and only one at a time, when I notice a decrease in power. It may be every 100 miles as happened to me when I got contaminated fuel in CO or 50,000 miles or more. It all depends on the cleanliness of the fuel you buy and the amount of algae in your tank.

I can understand a mechanic installing new filters to cover his ass. If your car quit running after he serviced it, you would complain about it. And besides you are paying for the filters and labor, not him, thus he makes more money. This is why its so much economical to service your own car than have it serviced by someone else. You will probably only replace parts it really needs doing it yourself. Mechanics are known for replacing parts that do not need to be replaced.


Carry extra filters with you and if you notice a loss of power replace the primary filter (inline) first, and if that doesn't restore power replace the secondary filter (canister). Its an easy DIY job and chances are you won't have to do it for 50,000 miles or more. The loss of power will feel like you are driving into a stiff wind and is usually noticed going up hill when the engine needs the maximum amount of fuel for full power.

P E H

Thanks PEH. I actually know how to change the filters on this car--i just throw in the towel when I take the car for service and say, "Hell, change the fuel filters too." Costs me $50. If you have seen my rant about my mechanic, you will understand that I am now going to purchase a pump-out device from Northern Tool in the near future and start ordering stuff from my new friend Phillip. I will do all maintenance up to the glow plugs myself for the near future. Thanks again.

Just a quick note on brake fluid flushing. I have a Mitey Vac. I've had it for years. I bought a Motive Power pressure bleeder. NO COMPARISON. My Mitey Vac will stay in its case from now on. The only way to flush brakes is with the pressure bleeder! It is MUCH easier.

I think the Motive Power unit is good quality and definitely a worthwhile investment for the DIY'er.

Save the Mitey Vac for checking vacuum systems.

Rgds,
Chris W.
no connection to Motive Power - just a satisfied user.

Chris W.
Does the Motive thing come with adaptors to fit late model Jap cars?? Or can they be ordered from them?
Thanks.

Yes, you can order adapters for just about any car. Visit:

www.motiveproducts.com and read everything you ever wanted to know about them.

Rgds,
Chris W.

Narwahl,

$50 for a fuel filter change. That's outrageous. The filters cost about $10 and its about a 15 minute job to change them. That would be $160 an hour.

Why not do the GP too (when they need R&R which is rare)? They are only about as had to R&R as spark plugs.

P E H