Update. And more problems naturally.
 

Finally got the engine free (it was stuck).

There was a piece of metal that kind of burred in the snout of the transmission.
It was small, but large enough to cause the engine to be stuck.

Anyway, on to current issues.

It wont start now.

I have been trying to start it for about an hour now!

(Before any of you jump on me, with many breaks to let the starter cool down;) )

Assume we are refering to the closest cylinder to the front of the car as number one, then I do get fuel out of the return line there.

I may have a slight leak on one of the braded return hoses as well.

My hand pump does have a leak and will be replaced soon.

Any advice???

What is the best return line to look at to see if I have full fuel.

Thanks!

Crack each injector line at the injector and see if fuel seeps out as you're cranking.

Sixto
95 S420
91 300SE
87 300SDL
83 300SD

Am I correct in the assumption that a little leak in the RETURN braided line shouldn't interfere with the car starting?

Probably not. I wait until the smell really bothers me before I replace my return lines :)

Sixto
95 S420
91 300SE
87 300SDL
83 300SD

Its possable the leak in the hand pump is letting air into the system. The engine had been running with that pump?
So you didn,t do anything to the engine, just pulled the tranny? what engine 616 or 617 I assume, cause if you have fuel coming out at the cracked injector lines and it ran before.....she should lite off.

It's a 77 300D.

And yes, the engine has been running with this pump.

Oh well, I Just ordered a new one anyway.

But I cracked the lines and had to crank for about 3-4 seconds before I got fuel.

I closed it all back up, and still, no start.
The battery may be low, so I am charging it now...

Fun.

Battery is fine.

What do you all think is my major malfunction?
;)

Pip

I would start by making sure the glow plugs are working. Do you have the new fast style GPs, much better starting especially when its cold. If you have fuel to the injectors and the glow plugs are working you might check the vacuum stop switch on the aft end of the injector pump. How was your compression? How long was the car not running?

Steve

Well, the car was running fine about a year ago.

Old style Glow plugs.

Nothing has changed.

How do I check the glow plugs?

Thanks!

PIP,

Do you have the glowing indicator coil in your dash. If that glows a bright orange, the GP are probably working correctly.

Another test for the series (loop) GP is to read the voltage drop across each GP when they are energized. If you get ~1.5 volts across each one, they are working properly. Hook your test leads as close to the GP as possible or on the terminal. Be careful of the resistance wires connecting the GP: they get hot.

P E H

P.E.H.

Yes, I do have the dash light.
It comes on while the buzzer comes on, and goes off about a second after it turns off (about 4-6 seconds for the buzzer).

My new hand primer pump comes tomorrow morning, so after I replace that and pump it up I hope it starts.

One last question.

Is it normal for the battery light to be on when the key is in the start position?

That is something I am unclear of.
I do have the factory manual, but haven't found my answer yet.

Thanks again!

You have air in the IP. Get the new primer on, and pump until you hear fuel hissing out the overflow (pressure valve) on the main fuel filter. Ensure that the suction line from the tank isn't leaking (it usually is if the hand pump is bad, they will be the same age) -- if it leaks, replace it. You will only suck up air that way, never gonna start.

Once you get good fuel in the filter, crack the return line on the pump (engine side, I think) and pump until you get only fuel, no air.

Seal back up, and crack the injection lines. Crank until only fuel flow out -- if it sprays, you have air in it yet. Should only spurt a bit.

Tighten injection lines, run GPS, and try to start. If it sputters, keep cranking (not more than 15-30 sec, then wait a bit for the starter to cool off again!). Should light right up.

Peter

Thanks for the help guys.

I will update this in the afternoon after I have put the new primer pump.

Is the suction line the braided hose too?

Or can I get this from Autozone?

Pip,

I didn't mean a dash light, I meant a coil in the dash (similar to a cigarette lighter) that glows with about the same intensity as the series GP glow themself. Older MB Diesels had them, your's doesn't have it you have a light.

So the only way for you check the GP without removing them is the voltage test that I described.

BTW, the pressure relief valve that PSFred mentioned is in the IP, not the fuel filter.

Any air that gets into the fuel lines is purged by the bleed hole in the secondary filter unless if you have a hole in the fuel line large enough that the fuel pump only pulls air. You might find this by pressurizing the fuel tank slightly and look under car for leaks.

P E H

Well, good news and bad news (for me).

Good news is that I dont have a fuel problem.

Bad news, I have no voltage across any of my glow plugs...
In fact, I can touch the coils with my bare hands!

Edit I have 12 Volts to the first GP, and no voltage after that.
about 1 Ohms of resistance across the other 4 GPs and 50 at the "bad" one.

So me thinks I have a bad GP. :o

Do any local parts chains keep the filament type GPs in stock?
Just curious.

Oh well, I am going to order one from Fastlane now.

Any other advice here?

PiP

PiP,

I think you have found your problem: open GP. I don't know if your local parts shop have the loop GP. You can always get them from Fastlane. Get 2 so you have a spare. Put it in the glove compartment so you have it if you are away from home when you need it.

That's the trouble with series GP. If one burns out, the whole system is dead and the engine might not start. with parallel GP, a couple can burn out and the engine will still start.

P E H

PEH, I am fixing to order two now.

Oh well, looks like I have to take one of the new cars.
I really wanted to take the 300D since we are going to the town it lived in for 21 years.

When I had my old 200D, I used to carry a 4 inch hunk of heavy gauge wire with an alligator clip on each end, which I would use to bypass the occasional burned out glow plug. Not a good permanent solution, but got me started on a couple of brrrr cold Michigan mornings.

Palangi,

I did the same thing for the 190D, 220D and 240D I used to drive. Its also a helpful diagnostic aid that would have found Pip's problem quickly.

P E H

PiP,

Make a jumper like Palangi described and you can should be able to start the engine. Its a PITA because you will have to go under the hood to start the engine, but probably only when the engine is cold. If your compression is good, your engine should start with out the jumper when hot.

I just thought that if you leave the jumper on until you get the new GP installed, you will only have to go under the hood once. You should also leave your GP on less than before because the three that are working will get hotter quicker and could burn out if left on too long.

Attach the jumper wire as close to the bad GP as possible to get the maximum resistance in series with the GP (from the resistance connecting wires).

P E H

Yeppers, I need to make up one of those jumpers for my 240D. Radio Shack, here I come!

I just got back today and am going to put my new glow plug in tomorrow, I hope this darn things starts!

(PS, I was just through your town today Palangi)

It is A-L-I-V-E. :D

It was two of the glow plugs.
Thanks for the help guys, glad it was something simple (stupid).

PiP